New steering rack, tons of movement

[5VZ-FE]

Brand new OEM steering rack. I have some uncomfortable symptoms, namely wandering in the lane and feeling like small bumps throw the 4Runner around way more than before. I read this thread, and have nearly the exact same symptoms. This thread talks about the same issues but concludes that the issue was LCA bushings.

My rack moves significantly from side to side when turning the steering wheel left and right. Are polyurethane bushings my best bet? It's hard to imagine Toyota ships brand new steering racks with bum bushings, but clearly plenty of others have had the same problem. This issue has made me virtually stop driving the 4Runner altogether because of how uncomfortable it is. Any help greatly appreciated.

 

[T4R2014]

It sounds ridiculous, but yes the bushings they install in the new OEM racks are trash. I've installed two of these racks and the bushings went bad in a year. I recommend to anyone who installs one to have a poly bushing kit put in before.

 

[IVD4R]

Absolutely ridiculous, I'm faced with same issue

 

[phattyduck]

How's your alignment? Toe out can make things very darty and uncomfortable.

Edit: I did a new rack maybe 5 years ago, but moved the poly rack bushings over from my original rack... so I can't comment on the stock bushings.

-Charlie

 

[NachesPass4x4]

I recently did an OEM rack and ignored the poly bushing suggestions. Everything seems good.. so far. My steering wheel seems off, just a little to the right but I assume that is just my alignment guy not centering the wheel perfectly and only cosmetic. Hopefully if poly bushings are needed they arn't near as bad as changing the rack.

 

[5VZ-FE]

How's your alignment? Toe out can make things very darty and uncomfortable.

Edit: I did a new rack maybe 5 years ago, but moved the poly rack bushings over from my original rack... so I can't comment on the stock bushings.

-Charlie

I just got an alignment, toe looks good (.07° L and .09° R). My steering wheel is slightly off center to the right which is super annoying but very bearable compared to the darting/squirrely steering. You can see in the video I attached that the rack moves a ton with slight jerking of the steering wheel. That has to be the culprit, right?

It sounds ridiculous, but yes the bushings they install in the new OEM racks are trash. I've installed two of these racks and the bushings went bad in a year. I recommend to anyone who installs one to have a poly bushing kit put in before.

Damn, none of my research said anything about this. I really wish I'd known. I guess poly is the way I'll go, though I have heard they can squeak badly. Does installing poly bushings require pulling the rack off entirely? I read in another thread that it's a miserable job.

These are the ones that popped up first, any other recommendations? I also read a thread with similar symptoms to mine that ended up being the LCA bushings. Does that seem possible?

Thanks for the responses guys.

 

[nissanh]

I installed the OEM D bushing and no issues at all, been about 4 years and steering is rock solid. The steering rack and ends are still OEM

 

[phattyduck]

I just got an alignment, toe looks good (.07° L and .09° R). My steering wheel is slightly off center to the right which is super annoying but very bearable compared to the darting/squirrely steering. You can see in the video I attached that the rack moves a ton with slight jerking of the steering wheel. That has to be the culprit, right?

How's the caster and camber then?

Movement at those bushings is normal - that's part of getting a smooth ride. Poly bushings will tighten things up, but even with the stock bushings it shouldn't be going all over the road.

-Charlie

 

[dmppdx]

When brand new, these vehicles didn't wander or bump steer, so Its almost guaranteed its more than just your steering bushings. Most likely your control arm bushings are trashed.

People turn the steering when parked and think its a big issue when their steering rack moves some, but that is because its pushing against significant friction from the tire sticking to the pavement so movement is to be expected. The bushing flex to be able to absorb impacts and vibrations. The people who designed these vehicle knew what they were doing when they designed the rack and bushings.

 

[5VZ-FE]

When brand new, these vehicles didn't wander or bump steer, so Its almost guaranteed its more than just your steering bushings. Most likely your control arm bushings are trashed.

Is there a way to test the control arm bushings?

 

[dmppdx]

Is there a way to test the control arm bushings?

I'm not aware there is an official way. I assume that if you put it on jacks and then use a screwdriver or something similar to pry on it and try to move it and assuming it doesn't have noticeable slack or move very easily, it should be fine. Since its new, I can't believe there would be a defect with in or it would have worn out at this point.

 

[T4R2014]

I just got an alignment, toe looks good (.07° L and .09° R). My steering wheel is slightly off center to the right which is super annoying but very bearable compared to the darting/squirrely steering. You can see in the video I attached that the rack moves a ton with slight jerking of the steering wheel. That has to be the culprit, right?

Damn, none of my research said anything about this. I really wish I'd known. I guess poly is the way I'll go, though I have heard they can squeak badly. Does installing poly bushings require pulling the rack off entirely? I read in another thread that it's a miserable job.

These are the ones that popped up first, any other recommendations? I also read a thread with similar symptoms to mine that ended up being the LCA bushings. Does that seem possible?

Thanks for the responses guys.

No, can be done on the vehicle. Not a bad job at all. I'd just get the Energy Suspension kit off amazon for like $30. There's no twisting in the function of rack bushings, so you won't hear any noise from poly bushings.

 

[JZiggy]

I installed a new OEM rack a couple years ago. Went ahead and used a poly bushing for the big one on the pass side and left the OEM one on the drivers side alone. It’s been great.

 

[pluton]

I had a new OEM rack and OEM bushings installed about 12 years ago. Perfect still.

 

[T4R2014]

I'm going to say the OEM bushing issue has been a thing since at least 2023. I've installed two racks and used the Energy Suspension D bushings. In both cases the D bushing held up, but the pressed in rack bushings are completely shot in about 20k of driving. This is with only street driving, though you could argue NY/NJ roads are only roads in name.

 

[Teargas50]

I'm going to say the OEM bushing issue has been a thing since at least 2023. I've installed two racks and used the Energy Suspension D bushings. In both cases the D bushing held up, but the pressed in rack bushings are completely shot in about 20k of driving. This is with only street driving, though you could argue NY/NJ roads are only roads in name.

Hey Guys,

Having issues with my original act so I had to make a new one. I have 2000 T4R sr5. I’ve been having the same issues with my steering rack / front suspension. I’ve refreshed a lot of the stuff up front and still have this clunk I can’t get rid of I feel like it’s always been the steering rack even after I put I new one in about 1.5 years ago swear the original one sounded better. But yeah so when I had lower control arms replaced recently with oem ones the mechanic stripped the upper bolt that’s on top the goes into the frame.

So I took it to another shop to fix it they used a nut to secure the rack with that long bolt, but still after said and done they say it’s secure and not sloppy I here the dam thing loose still.

I’ve done everything from new springs and Bilstein shocks SPC upper control arms new upper ball joint was installed recently which the SPC original one failed got the sealed ones seemed to be fine for now cross my fingers. New lower control arms new steering rack new import direct 2nd gen rear sway bar end links new sway bar bushings. The lower oem ball joint is still somewhat new. New outer oem tie rods new Cv axel the extend ones from direct import. Just got a Sonaran steel diff drop in the mail I was gonna try to put it in today.

But yeah still not lock tight after said and done. I feel like it has had to many chefs in the kitchen and the recipe is all messed up. I guess the next on the list is the steering rack bushings? Did I go wrong when I got the import direct stuff?

Thanks everyone

 

[T4R2014]

Hey Guys,

Having issues with my original act so I had to make a new one. I have 2000 T4R sr5. I’ve been having the same issues with my steering rack / front suspension. I’ve refreshed a lot of the stuff up front and still have this clunk I can’t get rid of I feel like it’s always been the steering rack even after I put I new one in about 1.5 years ago swear the original one sounded better. But yeah so when I had lower control arms replaced recently with oem ones the mechanic stripped the upper bolt that’s on top the goes into the frame.

So I took it to another shop to fix it they used a nut to secure the rack with that long bolt, but still after said and done they say it’s secure and not sloppy I here the dam thing loose still.

I’ve done everything from new springs and Bilstein shocks SPC upper control arms new upper ball joint was installed recently which the SPC original one failed got the sealed ones seemed to be fine for now cross my fingers. New lower control arms new steering rack new import direct 2nd gen rear sway bar end links new sway bar bushings. The lower oem ball joint is still somewhat new. New outer oem tie rods new Cv axel the extend ones from direct import. Just got a Sonaran steel diff drop in the mail I was gonna try to put it in today.

But yeah still not lock tight after said and done. I feel like it has had to many chefs in the kitchen and the recipe is all messed up. I guess the next on the list is the steering rack bushings? Did I go wrong when I got the import direct stuff?

Thanks everyone

If you can't see any play when messing with it on the lift, I'd take a look at your steering column. The gap between the two collapsible pieces can develop play. The proper fix is a new steering shaft but you can tack weld it or install a roll pin. Also look at the U joint in your lower steering shaft. Hidden behind your pedals. Last but not least, the rag joints on all these trucks are old as piss.

 

[5VZ-FE]

For what it's worth, I installed the Energy Suspension polyurethane kit today and then drove for about an hour. It feels great! Thank you to everyone who suggested that. It just feels like my steering wheel and my wheels are actually connected again, a little tricky to describe.

The OEM bushings that Toyota includes look super chintzy once they're out, not super surprising that people have issues with movement; they don't even have a uniform diameter to fill the tube.

 

[Teargas50]

For what it's worth, I installed the Energy Suspension polyurethane kit today and then drove for about an hour. It feels great! Thank you to everyone who suggested that. It just feels like my steering wheel and my wheels are actually connected again, a little tricky to describe.

The OEM bushings that Toyota includes look super chintzy once they're out, not super surprising that people have issues with movement; they don't even have a uniform diameter to fill the tube.

anyone heard of Nolathane bushings ordered some energy ones from orilleys and they sent these? Thanks still dealing with this slop in the front

 

[T4R2014]

anyone heard of Nolathane bushings ordered some energy ones from orilleys and they sent these? Thanks still dealing with this slop in the front

Nolathane is the budget line from the company that makes Whiteline and SuperPro. I'd put it as comparable to Energy. Not bad stuff but too firm for stuff like suspension bushings and body mounts. Should be just fine for the steering rack. Definitely better than the bushings in a new OEM rack.