JZiggy's "Grown Up" 4Runner Build
- Thread starter JZiggy
- Start date
Kanoe
New member
Pulled the VC for a valve lash check up and changed out the copper Denso spark plugs. All is still in spec after 15k of driving but one exhaust valve is getting near the limit and will need to be adjusted at some point... and it just happens to be the rearmost one. I for the life of me cannot figure out how to pull the shim with the Schley tool. At least I have some more time to cook up a solution. Looks good for 260k
Somehow it can be done. That is one I have changed. I believe it involved me basically laying on top of the engine and cursing a lot. I set that one closer to the loose end of spec hoping to never have to touch it again.
Squint_Eastwood
New member
Just a great video about heads from Danny the head whisperer and Faye, very educational https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3cRq-4nmt8
owyheerat
New member
Completed a fun mini-mod as discussed in this thread
Simply remove the ground wire to the marker lights and connect to the turn signal feed. Now when turn signals are on the markers light up as well. If the markers are on (like with headlights) then they blink alternately with the turn signal.
The benefit of this mod is that the marker housing illuminates more toward the side of the vehicle so the turn signals are more visible to traffic. Also the marker lights come on with the hazards as well.
Before
Wired in and wrapped up
Wiring
Hey Jordan,
I want to complete this 'mini mod', but I'm pretty much ignorant when it comes to electrical. So is it really as easy as you say? I just cut the ground wire from the side marker light and connect it to the 'hot' wire of the turn signal?
Also, I have already installed LED bulbs in my side marker, but have incandescent bulbs in the turn signals. Will this make any difference?
Thanks
Durwin
JZiggy
Senior Member
It's literally as easy as what is shown. BUT it may not work with LEDs... in fact probably won't unless someone more EE-savvy informs you where to put some resistors.
phattyduck
Elite Member
It should actually work just fine with incandescent turn signals and LED corner lights... as long as the LEDs used in the corner lights are 'non-polarized' ones.
Check this by making sure they light up when inserted both ways in the stock wiring configuration. If they do, you are golden.
-Charlie
owyheerat
New member
Jordan and Charlie,
Thanks for the help. My LED bulbs are non-polarized, so I got lucky. I am going to attempt this mod tomorrow.
Thanks again
Durwin
jeremyhughes
New member
Dash taken apart, cleaned, felt tape and foam on lots of stuff. Took a lot of hours but not really that hard.
New lens for the cluster!
Oh man, I hadn't thought about it but this reminds me of when I did this same thing to the civics dash... Did you notice improved air flow through the vents? Did you loose that GD rattle? Did you feel empowered after it was all done? Was beer involved?
Kanoe
New member
Any particular culprit? Or just a thousand little things?
infamousRNR
Senior Member
"Let me give you some 4-wheeling tips, noob"
hahahahaha love this pic dude.... I didn't know your 4runner's liked to kiss...
.
JZiggy
Senior Member
Lots of love in the Yota family. You know this!
JZiggy
Senior Member
When I did my manual hubster swap back in Spring 2017 I never took the time to rebuild the Aisin hubs. They were greased and working fine but I decided to give them some attention. Took out all the snap rings and greased everything up. While I had the hubs out I snuck a grease needle past the end of the outer CV shaft and pumped some grease into the spindle. Everything is nice and smooth now!
JZiggy
Senior Member
I never loved the pleather shifter boot material these trucks come with. After installing my short shifter and my custom knobs the boot wasn't really the right size either. A dude in Portland who is a vintage Toyota nut made a nice custom one for me out of garment leather. It's got kind of a different loose t-shirt baggy look and I really like it.
JZiggy
Senior Member
Finally pulled the trigger on the rear window interior switch mod. I followed inspiration from this thread and followed [MENTION=91393]papabeach[/MENTION] great idea to just tap into the wiring at the ECU rather than back in the guts of the door.
I opted for a 1st gen 4Runner window switch because 1) I had an extra 2) it's small and 3) still OEM
Trimmed a hole for it above the highest clip post. This switch body has a little alignment tab on either side so I had to trim that out too. Patience and a box knife worked best.
Test fitting, looks good. This one has 5 wires because it has a little interior lightbulb. I decided not to use it since I don't need this functionality.
The switch fits well higher up on the panel. This part of the panel is slightly curved so I clearanced the mounting face of the switch with a dremel to fit up snug so it can't wiggle around.
I like the fact that the switch body has two little rails on either side so an errand box would not easily hit it. It also takes a decent actuation force and has a solid "click" when pressed.
Fitted into the panel with a little wiring harness. I used some loctite plastic adhesive activator on the panel itself since it is PE or PP and hard to get normal glues to stick to it. Rather than using the loctite glue (which is basically superglue and is very rigid) I used some E6000 epoxy so it would stay tough and rubbery. After curing for a day the switch is in there very solid.
Snapping the panel back on. The corner of the switch body closest to the snap had like 1/32" of interference. I used a grease test to see where it was hitting and just pounded the sheet metal back a teeny bit -- all good. Wiring harness is zip tied to the snap boss as a strain relief. I did not need to trim a hole in the sheet metal.
Will take a better interior shot when I have some better light but here it is!
I opted for a 1st gen 4Runner window switch because 1) I had an extra 2) it's small and 3) still OEM
Trimmed a hole for it above the highest clip post. This switch body has a little alignment tab on either side so I had to trim that out too. Patience and a box knife worked best.
Test fitting, looks good. This one has 5 wires because it has a little interior lightbulb. I decided not to use it since I don't need this functionality.
The switch fits well higher up on the panel. This part of the panel is slightly curved so I clearanced the mounting face of the switch with a dremel to fit up snug so it can't wiggle around.
I like the fact that the switch body has two little rails on either side so an errand box would not easily hit it. It also takes a decent actuation force and has a solid "click" when pressed.
Fitted into the panel with a little wiring harness. I used some loctite plastic adhesive activator on the panel itself since it is PE or PP and hard to get normal glues to stick to it. Rather than using the loctite glue (which is basically superglue and is very rigid) I used some E6000 epoxy so it would stay tough and rubbery. After curing for a day the switch is in there very solid.
Snapping the panel back on. The corner of the switch body closest to the snap had like 1/32" of interference. I used a grease test to see where it was hitting and just pounded the sheet metal back a teeny bit -- all good. Wiring harness is zip tied to the snap boss as a strain relief. I did not need to trim a hole in the sheet metal.
Will take a better interior shot when I have some better light but here it is!
Last edited:
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