Step 5: Remove Skid Plate | Return to Steps
As we saw when using the penetrating fluid, there are 6 bolts holding up the skid plate. I removed the bolts in the order shown below. This way, two bolts across from each other, #5 and #6, are left to hold the skid up until the end.


Bolt #4 is underneath the driveshaft and in a tricky location. I could only get a wrench on it, but didn't have enough leverage to break it free. I then set the passenger rear wheel on the ground and moved the jack and stand to the driver side. This is where 3 jack stands would have come in handy! After she was flexed out as much as stock suspension, sway bars, and my comfort would allow, I got a longer ratchet in to break it free. I then returned the setup to jacking under the rear axle, since that felt safer. I removed bolt #4 1/12 a rotation at a time, which was awful.


Before loosening bolts #5 and #6, place a jack under the skid to support it. These bolts could then be removed like normal with a ratchet or impact, and the skid then lowered to the ground.


All of the skid plate bolts were really crusty, and I was fully expecting to break them all off. I had a traumatic bolt breaking experience with the front skid plates, so I was preparing for the worst. For the front bolts, I was trying to break them free with a ratchet, since my little impact driver couldn't loosen a really stuck bolt, and I think the long applications of torque was one of the reasons the front skid bolts broke. By now I had this bigger impact, which could plow the bolts off no issue. The intermittent torquing with enough power to remove the bolts is what I think saved me.


Step 6: Adjust Ratchet Straps | Return to Steps
More than likely, your ratchet straps might have crossed over the fuel tank straps while in between the tank and skid. This is completely fine, we will now adjust them to not interfere.


I started by supporting the tank near the front with the jack and releasing tension on the front strap. I then moved the strap back and ran it through one of the exhaust hangers that was a bit further back than the subframe piece from earlier.


The rear strap was actually not interfering much, so I just jacked up the rear of the tank and moved the strap slightly further back. If your ratchet strap is interfering significantly, the same method as the front strap can be used on the rearward strap.