In case anything happens to this thread, it has been saved in the WayBack Machine: https://web.archive.org/web/20210123...-pictures.html
Intro
Hello All, I recently replaced the drivers rear door lock actuator on my 2005 sr5 and took some pictures along the way. While doing my research, I encountered others that had multiple actuator failures, this one appears to have lasted all 205k. I am not the original owner, but it didn't look like anyone else had been in that door, so I assume its original. I've been riding around and unlocking manually from the drivers door, and its honestly terrible.
This is the first real write-up I have done, so feel free to leave comments on picture size, quantity, description clarity, etc
Update 1/19/20:
My Passenger rear lock actuator was having trouble, so I replaced this one as well and have added some better pictures I grabbed from doing this the second time around
Step Directory (Links Jump in Thread)
Parts |
Return to Directory
I really wanted to salvage from a junkyard because I've never been junkin before. After hearing about other failures, I decided new or reconditioned was going to be best. I got a
reconditioned actuator on ebay from the seller
actuatorplus. Hopefully the links should be clickable. Eventually the ad will expire, but the seller should still be there. Parts are supposedly reconditioned with Toyota parts and have a lifetime warranty, just have to send in the core.
I did pay for the part with my own money, this isn't a sponsorship or anything like that, but I did send the seller the write-up to share with others taking on this project.
This is what the part looks like:
Tools |
Return to Steps- Safety Glasses
- Small Flat Head Screwdriver or pick set
- Philips Head Screwdriver
- Torx T-30 Bit
- Panel Clip Pliers
Step 1: Remove Cover Behind Handle |
Return to Directory
This small plate behind the handle is removable and hides 1 of 2 screws that hold the door card on. I have this small, flathead screwdriver that I used to get in there.
I always find it helpful to see the tab locations behind panels, so I have tried to get pictures of of them. Hopefully the orientation of the part makes sense, its as if opened like a book. Under this panel, there is a screw by the lock switch, remove it and save it. I kept all mine in the cup holder.
Step 2: Remove Armrest |
Return to Directory
The second screw is under the armrest. To remove the armrest, pull up by the handle. This is the technique I used:
Again, here are the tab locations
Once the armrest is removed, there is another screw by the handle. Remove it and keep with others, this is the last screw holding on the door card
Step 3: Remove the Door Card |
Return to Directory
By some miracle, I didn't break a single panel clip during this process. I had initially tried removing with hands, but I remembered I had panel clip pliers that I got from Harbor Freight:
Panel Clip Pliers
I started at the bottom of the door, using my hand to pry up the plastic enough to get the pliers in there. I tried to pull where I thought a panel clip could be, based on how tight the card was to the metal door. Once the pliers were seated underneath, a quick squeeze got the clip freed
Here are the clip locations for my passenger rear door
Once all the clips are removed, the top of the card will still be seated around the window, and the bottom will be freed. The top section has a sort of U shape that hooks in by the window, to remove simply pull up.
Step 4: Unplug Everything |
Return to Directory
Once the card is unseated all around, there are a few wires connecting to the window buttons, door light, and the lock actuator cables. My recommendation is to remove the lock cables first first, as they make maneuvering the door card harder while still installed. To remove, first unseat the cable holders from the molded plastic. Then rotate until the wire lines up with its removal slot and pull the cable out.
Next, unplug all the connectors. On the driver rear, I only had the window button and door pocket light to unplug, but different doors or trim levels may have more. For reference, here are the plugs for the door light and window button.
Step 5: Remove the Old Actuator |
Return to Directory
So once the door card and all connections have been separated, you will be left with the metal door. There is a plastic moisture barrier that is glued all around. I was worried to remove this, since I didn't think to get any construction adhesive to reseal this. Thankfully, it was so tacky that it was able to be restuck when done, without any extra adhesive.
There are 3 T30 torx bolts holding the actuator in place. They are on the edge of the door, near the lock opening. I used the little tool with a bunch of fold out wrenches, and it worked well.
Now wrestle the actuator out of the hole in the door. I would recommend pulling the actuator out of its cavity while pushing the cables down in the plastic moisture barrier, then rotate the actuator around the window guides, and pull it out along with the cables.