3rd Gen T4R DIY Maintenance, Repair and Modification Videos

mtbtim said:

If you have a non-functioning door lock, there's a good chance it's just because the little RC motor that cycles the lock has failed. The video walks you through the steps of removing the door lock assembly from the door, cracking open the door lock actuator to replace the motor and then shows you how to get it all put back together.

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Ned Preston said:

Hey guys, I have a 1998 SR5 4Runner. I have acquired a 2nd gen factory brush guard for FREE. Personally my favorite F-word. Now I was wondering if anyone has ever seen any guides or videos or has any advice on installing it on my 3rd gen. And yes I know bumpers are better and i'll get one eventually but for now this will work until I can save. But I cant seem to find any conversion brackets for sale or any guides on how to make them. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks - Preston.

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BLUnderwood said:

So, right off the bat, 2 things. 1, I changed my radiator, thermostat, spark plugs, and headers. What happened was today the engine just started smacking around like a fish out of water, literally. It was shaking and in order to make it home I had to drive sit at 4k
Rpms, but it didnt shift or didnt move anywhere. I dont know what the issue is, but Id like to find out. And second off, I would love to find possible candidates and info regarding engine swaps and costs for custom wiring for said new engines. Please and thank you people of the forums

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BLUnderwood said:

So, right off the bat, 2 things. 1, I changed my radiator, thermostat, spark plugs, and headers. What happened was today the engine just started smacking around like a fish out of water, literally. It was shaking and in order to make it home I had to drive sit at 4k
Rpms, but it didnt shift or didnt move anywhere. I dont know what the issue is, but Id like to find out. And second off, I would love to find possible candidates and info regarding engine swaps and costs for custom wiring for said new engines. Please and thank you people of the forums

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mtbtim said:

If you have a clutch pedal that's feeling a bit sloppy, it might be time to renew some of the wear parts and possibly the clutch pedal itself. This video shows you how to remove the clutch pedal assembly from the rig, replace all the wear parts, and get it reinstalled.

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austindenny said:

Hey, Tim – curious to get your thoughts on my clutch issue. I’ve had two new clutches installed in the last few months and both of them have seemed to fail within a few thousand miles. In both cases, the main symptom is that the clutch starts to smell like it’s been burning when shifting from first through third after many hours of a long drive. Thought the first issue was caused by too little free-play but that was ostensibly fixed when installing the second clutch and I’m having the issue again. Now I have no idea what to suspect – maybe they scratched the outer race when swapping the rear main seal and there’s small leak or a leak from the input shaft? No idea. The hydraulics feel okay so I don’t suspect the cylinders. Have you ever heard of a similar situation?

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mtbtim said:

Did the first clutch look like it was contaminated with oil? What did the mechanic say?

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austindenny said:

He didn’t mention any oil contamination – said the disc itself was pretty glazed but that the real issue was pressure plate, which had significant heat scarring. Also replaced the fork and throwout bearing with the first clutch.

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mtbtim said:

Well, I would think oil contamination would be pretty apparent so if the mechanic didn't mention it, it's probably not the issue. I know when I was making the video with Dan, he said you have to be careful how much grease you apply to the input shaft of the trans because if any grease slings onto the clutch, it will cause it to slip. I guess that could be a possibility. I'm not an expert on clutches, but if the mechanic did everything right, and the parts used were quality, I don't know why you would be having such early failures.

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austindenny said:

Thanks, Tim. I’ve got a long drive back to Texas this weekend from Sedona, so we’ll see how it holds up after adding another round of free-play. If it burns up, hopefully my mechanic will stand behind his work. Otherwise, I may be taking another stab at doing the repair in my garage — gave up on the first attempt last year when I couldn’t get to the top bell-housing bolts but I think with a slight body lift and letting the transmission droop down a bit I could get it done with just two hands.

Appreciate all of the effort you guys put into the videos.

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Devbot said:

Hey Tim/Sean, you ever hear of a squeaking/chattering of sorts happening after doing LBJs, or perhaps experience it yourself? I only ask as I followed your video for a how-to

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mtbtim said:

No, we haven't experienced this. If you got everything back together right, I don't know what would the squeaking/chattering. I wonder if somehow the joint came ungreased. Did you use OEM balljoints?

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Devbot said:

Indeed I did. It doesn't start right away some I don't think it's a lack of grease, or perhaps even the LBJ as the noise seemed to increase with rain the other day? There's a video here if you want to listen (but mind you this was probably at it's worst and isn't always that constant. Only from the pass wheel). I was just curious what your thoughts were, since you've done this way more than I!

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