Gimli's Surprisingly Light Overlanding Build

gimlithepirate said:

After buying a used , I am always a fan of preventative maintenance. I knew from the pre-purchase inspection that I needed new CV boots. What I did not know until I got home was the CVs were cheap after market units.

Also, at 178k miles it had no record of any timing belt being done. I'm guessing it was at some point, but with no idea I was not about to risk it.

I DIY as much of my own maintenance as I can. So far, a timing belt is near the limit of what I will do, but I seem to have a knack for taking on bigger and bigger projects...

Initial Maintenance:

• 
  New OEM CV axles
• New timing belt and water pump using AISIN Kit
• New Thermostat
• Coolant Drain and Fill
• Oil Change
• Power Steering Fluid Change

All of this went according to plan, EXCEPT for part of the timing belt. Had the belt changed out and everything was moving along all hunky dory. I did take the radiator out, which let me get my impact in to make taking off the crank shaft bolt way easier.

I got to the part where I bolted thermostat housing on... and righty-tighty become righty-loosey. Bolt completely sheered off in the block :wow2:

Thankfully, I was able to get it out with a screw extractor and some patience.

I had some bolts of similar length and thread count from my Isuzu in my garage, though I did have to shorten one with the dremel. After that, I was able to cinch everything up, and have her back on the road!

Click to expand...

Would you mind sharing some info on the CV replacements? I know these are probably in my future sooner rather than later as they are starting to show some cracks but no leaks yet. I inquired at the dealer last time I was there and I think it was about $2500 total for both. I know you used OEM but how hard is the install, etc.

TheCaKid said:

Would you mind sharing some info on the CV replacements? I know these are probably in my future sooner rather than later as they are starting to show some cracks but no leaks yet. I inquired at the dealer last time I was there and I think it was about $2500 total for both. I know you used OEM but how hard is the install, etc.

Click to expand...

There are three options for CV axles. OEM are about 400/piece online. If you currently have OEM, you can get remanufactured joints from CVJ for 250ish. Lastly, you can go the cheap route and get NAPA axles for like 125-150/piece. In terms of quality, if you onky drive on road, NAPA work. If you offroad, you will blow through them in no time flat, you need to go with CVJ or OEM.

In terms of the process there are several guides on this website. Long story show, it's pretty easy. For me it was less than half a day of work. You basically take the front tires off, disconnect the LCAs, and pop them out. There is a thread that describes the other seals you need tk grab to make sure you get everything taken care of at once.

Hello fellow Burqueño. Nice build so far. If you have questions and or issues about building the NWTI bumper [MENTION=119796]alia176[/MENTION] is your man. He's local and just built one. He's also very friendly, he doesn't bite, I promise.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

montijo505 said:

Hello fellow Burqueño. Nice build so far. If you have questions and or issues about building the NWTI bumper [MENTION=119796]alia176[/MENTION] is your man. He's local and just built one. He's also very friendly, he doesn't bite, I promise.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

Good to know! My interaction with fab shops in abq has been... Mixed lol.

It's actually not NWTI, but True North Fabrications prewelded. Their option is light weight (only 90lbs!) so I wanted to try it. That said, whenever I get around to a rear bumper I'm probably looking at a diy project of some sort.

gimlithepirate said:

There are three options for CV axles. OEM are about 400/piece online. If you currently have OEM, you can get remanufactured joints from CVJ for 250ish. Lastly, you can go the cheap route and get NAPA axles for like 125-150/piece. In terms of quality, if you onky drive on road, NAPA work. If you offroad, you will blow through them in no time flat, you need to go with CVJ or OEM.

In terms of the process there are several guides on this website. Long story show, it's pretty easy. For me it was less than half a day of work. You basically take the front tires off, disconnect the LCAs, and pop them out. There is a thread that describes the other seals you need tk grab to make sure you get everything taken care of at once.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I've been doing some research on the process and what it would actually take to do. I'll probably go the CVJ route, as even though it's not gonna be a rock crawler or anything too extreme, I'm planning to build something out that can get me off the beaten track, plus deal with the terrible roads for skiing.

Definitely happy to hear it's an easy job -- some of the threads have scared me a bit with the tool list and not always having access to a garage, as I live in a city apartment. Worst case I'll buy parts, and see what labor would cost between the dealer or a local 4x4 shop.

TheCaKid said:

Thanks, I've been doing some research on the process and what it would actually take to do. I'll probably go the CVJ route, as even though it's not gonna be a rock crawler or anything too extreme, I'm planning to build something out that can get me off the beaten track, plus deal with the terrible roads for skiing.

Definitely happy to hear it's an easy job -- some of the threads have scared me a bit with the tool list and not always having access to a garage, as I live in a city apartment. Worst case I'll buy parts, and see what labor would cost between the dealer or a local 4x4 shop.

Click to expand...

If the weather is decent this is doable in a parking lot. That said, you do need specific sizes of sockets, and probably a BFH and some kind of punch kit to get them out.

Once out, it's not too bad, though getting the seals to set is a little nerve-wracking.

gimlithepirate said:

If the weather is decent this is doable in a parking lot. That said, you do need specific sizes of sockets, and probably a BFH and some kind of punch kit to get them out.

Once out, it's not too bad, though getting the seals to set is a little nerve-wracking.

Click to expand...

For sure -- the 2 tools I'd need to acquire/borrow were the BFH or a slidehammer to get the CV out and the massive socket to get the axle nut off. Maybe it's a good excuse to get that DeWalt Impact I've looked at haha

Also ya the seal part for sure made me think twice. I'd prefer to do the work on my own and would definitely like to tackle some bigger projects on this one than I've done in the past, but the description I read on those seals definitely made me think twice.

TheCaKid said:

For sure -- the 2 tools I'd need to acquire/borrow were the BFH or a slidehammer to get the CV out and the massive socket to get the axle nut off. Maybe it's a good excuse to get that DeWalt Impact I've looked at haha

Also ya the seal part for sure made me think twice. I'd prefer to do the work on my own and would definitely like to tackle some bigger projects on this one than I've done in the past, but the description I read on those seals definitely made me think twice.

Click to expand...

For the socket itself, autozone will rent you an axle nut socket set for free. You will need either an impact or a big cheater bar to get it off though. A big cheater bar is 20-30 at Amazon or HF, and if you want the impact Rigid sells a great one at home depot. Makes a lot of things easier.

For the seals, if you want to make it easy, take the seal to home depot and get some pipe that's the right size for pushing it in. Makes it way easier. Or you can tempt fate like I did and use the CV itself to set the seal. It might work, it might not. It did for me.

You will leak a little bit of oil, so it's also a good time to change your front diff oil. Autozone carries a Chevron full synthetic gear oil in the right weight for our cars that's pretty cheap.

gimlithepirate said:

For the socket itself, autozone will rent you an axle nut socket set for free. You will need either an impact or a big cheater bar to get it off though. A big cheater bar is 20-30 at Amazon or HF, and if you want the impact Rigid sells a great one at home depot. Makes a lot of things easier.

For the seals, if you want to make it easy, take the seal to home depot and get some pipe that's the right size for pushing it in. Makes it way easier. Or you can tempt fate like I did and use the CV itself to set the seal. It might work, it might not. It did for me.

You will leak a little bit of oil, so it's also a good time to change your front diff oil. Autozone carries a Chevron full synthetic gear oil in the right weight for our cars that's pretty cheap.

Click to expand...

You're a braver man than me on the seals! I think I'd definitely go the pipe route to fit them. Appreciate the info though on the axle nut -- I hadn't thought about
AutoZone rentals for it.

TheCaKid said:

You're a braver man than me on the seals! I think I'd definitely go the pipe route to fit them. Appreciate the info though on the axle nut -- I hadn't thought about
AutoZone rentals for it.

Click to expand...

Bravery is not wisdom. It's usually born out of laziness xD

TheCaKid said:

Would you mind sharing some info on the CV replacements? I know these are probably in my future sooner rather than later as they are starting to show some cracks but no leaks yet. I inquired at the dealer last time I was there and I think it was about $2500 total for both. I know you used OEM but how hard is the install, etc.

Click to expand...

Check with local/online dealers for Toyota remanufactured CV's. They can be hard to come by, but 1) they're OEM rebuilds and 2) the price is generally ~$150 per CV.

Speaking of CVs, I used NAPA brand new CV axles and they come with HD outer boots with lifetime warranty. NAPA has CVS with "standard duty" outer boots but their HDversion come with thicker outer boots. I'm not a hard core crawler or anything and only running 265 70 17s so not exactly stressing out these CVs. Just a FYI for others reading this thread.

gimlithepirate said:

Good to know! My interaction with fab shops in abq has been... Mixed lol.

It's actually not NWTI, but True North Fabrications prewelded. Their option is light weight (only 90lbs!) so I wanted to try it. That said, whenever I get around to a rear bumper I'm probably looking at a diy project of some sort.

Click to expand...

Howdy,

I applaud your light weight overland build as I think people undervalue this particular attribute when they're slapping shit on their rigs. Weight is penalty and when you live at higher elevations, fuel economy tanks with each 100# weight that we add. Newton's law dictates that once an object is in motion is stays in motion so the weight penalty is primarily during starts/stops but lifting a rig adds air drag which also tanks MPG. We CAN'T win, damn it!!!

The NWTI bumpers I bought are NOT light by any means but interestingly enough, any 2" rear coil springs are at min 200 lb/inch where the OEM springs are 180 lb/inch. Unfortunately, what I found out is that she needed some serous "junk in her trunk" to settle the rear end down a tad. I went through three sets of shocks (before the bumper came to fruition) and they just weren't able handle the empty rear end. Even when I added both bumpers, they did NOT lower the rig at all :becky: What I noticed was that the front end would dip down too low and tagging obstacles on the trail but the ride height remained the same after the heavy bumpers were added.

Last week I switched from Bilstein 6112 600 #/in springs to Kings 700 #/in springs and moved up the higher grooves on the 6112s.

Anyway Mr Pirate, ping me if you wanna compare notes and such. Also, our local landcruiser club is having serious cabin fever and looking to do a run this weekend. Please go introduce yourself to our group and perhaps join in the run.

NM- High Desert Cruisers | IH8MUD Forum

alia176 said:

Howdy,

I applaud your light weight overland build as I think people undervalue this particular attribute when they're slapping shit on their rigs. Weight is penalty and when you live at higher elevations, fuel economy tanks with each 100# weight that we add. Newton's law dictates that once an object is in motion is stays in motion so the weight penalty is primarily during starts/stops but lifting a rig adds air drag which also tanks MPG. We CAN'T win, damn it!!!

The NWTI bumpers I bought are NOT light by any means but interestingly enough, any 2" rear coil springs are at min 200 lb/inch where the OEM springs are 180 lb/inch. Unfortunately, what I found out is that she needed some serous "junk in her trunk" to settle the rear end down a tad. I went through three sets of shocks (before the bumper came to fruition) and they just weren't able handle the empty rear end. Even when I added both bumpers, they did NOT lower the rig at all :becky: What I noticed was that the front end would dip down too low and tagging obstacles on the trail but the ride height remained the same after the heavy bumpers were added.

Last week I switched from Bilstein 6112 600 #/in springs to Kings 700 #/in springs and moved up the higher grooves on the 6112s.

Anyway Mr Pirate, ping me if you wanna compare notes and such. Also, our local landcruiser club is having serious cabin fever and looking to do a run this weekend. Please go introduce yourself to our group and perhaps join in the run.

NM- High Desert Cruisers | IH8MUD Forum

Click to expand...

For the rear bumper, I was actually thinking I might look at Coastal Offroad's option. They offer aluminum, but that is serious dollars. True North also does a low weight rear, but I'm not sold that it protects enough. Bigger issue is their rear recommends welding some tabs on the end of the frame. So far I have avoided touching the frame at all, but that may change.

I may ping you at some point. And I will definitely check out the Land Cruiser group. I've wheeled with one of their guys before when I tagged along with an offroad club. Just got to wait for everything to settle down. As much as I want to go make friends, I've got someone immunocompromised in my household so I need to be careful.

little_joe said:

Check with local/online dealers for Toyota remanufactured CV's. They can be hard to come by, but 1) they're OEM rebuilds and 2) the price is generally ~$150 per CV.

Click to expand...

That price assumes you have OEM CVs to use for the core charge. Previous owner out crappy low quality ones on, so I was not getting that core charge back. Thus I bought new which hurt.

NAPA HD is a great option as long as you aren't lifted more than about an inch. Honestly, with my current lift I probably could have gotten away with napa, but decided I wanted to do it once, do it right.

gimlithepirate said:

NAPA HD is a great option as long as you aren't lifted more than about an inch. Honestly, with my current lift I probably could have gotten away with napa, but decided I wanted to do it once, do it right.

Click to expand...

Our rigs have negative CV angles from stock and lifting them 2" doesn't seem to really exasperate this angle, IMO. I hear the 3rd gens suffer more from any lift since they're already at a sharper angle from factory. Just a FYI.

Window Up Mod

I got sick and tired of having to get in the car, or pop in the key, to roll up the back window while camping. I loved having a rear lift gate in the back of my Isuzu, so when I saw this guide on the roll up mod I had to try it:
Back Window Up Hack with Factory Key Fob - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

First of all, massive kudos dpodo. He figured this out in quite possibly the best way possible. I won't reproduce the whole thread here, but suffice it to say everything you need is in that thread.

My one addition to it would be to say just older the new connections. I fought and fought with trying different ways to slip wires in the back of spade connectors, and finally gave up, skinned a bit of insulation off, soldered my tap in, and wrapped in electrical tape. Worked like a charm.

If you camp with your 4runner, this mod is so worth it.

Video evidence of success!

<div style="width:100%;height:0px;position:relative;padding-bottom:56.250%;"><iframe src="https://streamable.com/e/873zqv" frameborder="0" width="100%" height="100%" allowfullscreen style="width:100%;height:100%;position:absolute;left:0px;top:0px;overflow:hidden;"></iframe></div>

How are you liking the Eibach kit? Holding up well?

Diff Breather and Washer Bottle Relocation

We now get into the realm of reactive modding. This is a bad idea, don't do this. Generally, you want to think about what trails you want to drive, and mod to do those trails safely. I however, was an idiot and instead did this at the end of a trip:
<div style="width:100%;height:0px;position:relative;padding-bottom:56.250%;"><iframe src="https://streamable.com/e/fdxb2i" frameborder="0" width="100%" height="100%" allowfullscreen style="width:100%;height:100%;position:absolute;left:0px;top:0px;overflow:hidden;"></iframe></div>

Initially seemed fine, but a few miles down the road, VSC and ATRAC lights started blinking. The car would also in some cases suddenly lock the center diff. Oops.

Thankfully (?) the big problem appears to have self healed. No more lights, and I haven't had any in a while. Hopefully they stay away. I did however check all of my oils after the incident, and sure enough the rear diff had water in it.

To prevent this, I bought a diff relocation kit from [MENTION=141814]Berty_K[/MENTION] here on the forum. Details on his kit are here https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3501328-post3678.html Yes you can build your own, but his came with enough hose to mount in the engine bay. so all diff breathers are easy to check.


Plus he posted his detailed instructions to the forum gratis, and I like to support people that help the community when I can. Installation was a breeze, and the instructions were great.

While I was at it, I decided to take care of another niggling issue and relocate my washer bottle. While I have *just* enough room in the wheel wells for my 255's, at full lock turning to the left I would sometimes rub against the stock washer bottle. Given I live somewhere with minimal rain, I decided to relocate the washer bottle to the engine compartment.


I used the kit available here: Windshield Washer Tank Relocation Kit — Silver Rhino Media. Again, could probably put something together myself (and his site has instructions on how to do this. However, this came with brackets to properly mount it, and was setup so you retain both the front and rear washer functionality. I could DIY it, but it was cheap enough it was easier just to order it.

Anyway, two easy fixes to annoying problems is always a win in my book.

Roody said:

How are you liking the Eibach kit? Holding up well?

Click to expand...

The Eibach kit is great. It's a big step above a Bilstein + FJ coil kit, but manages to keep more of the stock geometry than the Dobinsons kits do. I would not recommend it for people doing real rock crawling/pseudo jeep builds, but for anyone wanting good on road and off road handling its great.

Only downside is the rear spring is not quite up to snuff. I think it needs taller springs in the back, but I don't mind a rake, and prefer it to be able to handle being loaded down with gear for a trip.

I've seen specials on the kit as low as 650, and at that price it's a steal.