Are you sure you got tundra 6112's? Everything I've seen says they come with 650 lb/in springs. Where did you get the FJ80 5160's from?
3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's
- Thread starter steezemcqueen
- Start date
Are you sure you got tundra 6112's? Everything I've seen says they come with 650 lb/in springs. Where did you get the FJ80 5160's from?
I have a similar thing going on. The only thing I can think of is I loosened the UCA to make it easier to install instead of fighting the UCA bushings with bottle jack or pry bars or whatever. Then I re-torqued it on the ground at new lifted height. It made the install easy but I gained almost an inch over what I was supposed to. It still hasnt settled after a few years. There is less torsion in the rubber bushings to the point it affects ride height? I dunno. I can fit 285s now so whatever.
What else do i need with my lift
I am new to the forum and am preparing to buy a lift for my 02 t4r I was wondering if anyone has run the ome 883/891 combo with 5100's for a 4runner. I do not currently have a front bumper but plan on making one soon and there is about 100# in the rear between my drawer system and roof rack with plans to add a swing out bumper soon. And also wondering if I should get the long travel 5100's or the normal ones. Also wondering if I will need to do anything else along with the coils and shocks, uca's, panhard, break lines, ect. Also wondering if the tundra 4runner or tacoma 5100s would be best with extra weight. I may also go with 881/890 and get the heavier tundra shocks.
I am new to the forum and am preparing to buy a lift for my 02 t4r I was wondering if anyone has run the ome 883/891 combo with 5100's for a 4runner. I do not currently have a front bumper but plan on making one soon and there is about 100# in the rear between my drawer system and roof rack with plans to add a swing out bumper soon. And also wondering if I should get the long travel 5100's or the normal ones. Also wondering if I will need to do anything else along with the coils and shocks, uca's, panhard, break lines, ect. Also wondering if the tundra 4runner or tacoma 5100s would be best with extra weight. I may also go with 881/890 and get the heavier tundra shocks.
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ir0nma1den
New member
Looking at replacing all springs and shocks my my 2000 4runner @ 188k miles with stock suspension. I'm not looking for a lift that will add stress to the system, but a mild 1" lift is appealing. After sifting through the forums, I am thinking about pulling to trigger on this setup:
Front: Moog 81088 coils + KYB KG9025 struts
Rear: OME 2906 coils + KYB KG54317 shocks
The most off-roading I do is primitive trails out in national parks to get to camp spots and this summer I will be hopping around Montana/Wyoming a bit with 2 people + camping gear, so some weight but not a ton. Currently running Kumho Road Venture P265/75R16SL tires as they are the biggest tires I could find that fit in the stock configuration. I have no plans to get bigger tires.
Given my current setup and needs, is this a good choice to refresh my suspension?
Front: Moog 81088 coils + KYB KG9025 struts
Rear: OME 2906 coils + KYB KG54317 shocks
The most off-roading I do is primitive trails out in national parks to get to camp spots and this summer I will be hopping around Montana/Wyoming a bit with 2 people + camping gear, so some weight but not a ton. Currently running Kumho Road Venture P265/75R16SL tires as they are the biggest tires I could find that fit in the stock configuration. I have no plans to get bigger tires.
Given my current setup and needs, is this a good choice to refresh my suspension?
Wrenchin4torts
New member
Posting in case anyone is curious on what icon #700 coils and LC 8.25 wraps looks like. Tires are 295/70-17
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a one inch lift is nice and easy, and easy on the rest of suspension and drive train. My first lift was a 1 inch. then a 3 inch, and now this new to me is getting a 2 inch. The one inch was fine for forest service roads/ camping/ small rough trail stuff etc. But never had more than 2 people and a dog and all the camping stuff, a lot of it on a full roof rack. ( camping stuff, not dog or girlfriend on roof)
Maybe you can get more feedback, bt have been told that the moogs are short lived. I have no experience with them so I cant judge or confirm. I used new toyota 99 talls for springs.
the KYB's are good too for the most part ( that first 1 inch lift had KYB's with yota talls) but after about 30k miles the rears started leaking, but in thier defence I did grossly overlaod the rig several times and then way way overloaded when I moved from Oregon to Alaska. The fronts never had a problem. I did install air bags at the time and they helped a lot. Even though I had short lived rears, I would do KYB's again if I was only going for 1 inch lift. Maybe the KYB monomax are better for the back but then maybe you would have to run monomax up front so they worked the same, and that might be too rigid.
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NC-Limited
New member
Just installed 5100s and OME front and back on my 97 limited. I now have a slight vibration in the steering wheel, break vibrations, and it feels as if I have some loose steering? I changed the bushings for the front sway bar and both links to help with the body roll but I’m still having those problems.
I have a set of upper control arms waiting install.
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I have a set of upper control arms waiting install.
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Devbot
New member
So with my new bumper and winch I'm losing about 3/4-1" of lift, and I'm thinking about throwing in some top plate spacers each side to easily get this back. I have a 1/4" spacer (1/2" lift) from Toytec that I never used; what do you guys think, should I snag another? Never used spacers before, but I'm really trying to avoid taking down my struts again. Forgot what perch they're at, but iirc they only have one more before maxed out (which just preloads the coil anyways)
Sorry for the noob question :keyboard:
Sorry for the noob question :keyboard:
Be careful how much strut spacer you use as it will allow for the front wheels to droop further and can cause additional stress and even break cv axles. It will also limit the amount of up travel and could cause your shock to bottom out on itself before the front bump stops can stop up travel. I wouldn't use more than a 1/4" strut top plate spacer which will net you about 1/2" of lift.
SoCalHeadhunter
New member
Great Write-up!
This thread has some really helpful information. The part about a '99 having the highest factory ride height prompted a question.
I'm new here and new to 4Runners. I hope you'll forgive me for not reading through the whole 60 pages of this thread for the answer. I'm sure it's in there, but I didn't find it by skipping around from page to page.
The question:
Given that a '99 has the highest factory ride height, is there anything besides the coils that would need to be changed on another year to have it match the '99?
In other words, if I had a '97, '98 or '01 and wanted to get it to the high end of stock ride height, what other parts in addition to the coils would I need to change to keep from negatively affecting the original geometry?
The reason for the question is that I'm planning on buying a '99 Highlander (aka Limited) with a V6, 5-speed, e-locker and 4.30 gears. If I don't find one, I'm wondering what it would take to clone it from another year. I'm open to any and all comments including those that go beyond suspension.
I think it's better to know what I'm getting into up front. If it's not a big deal then I may expand my search to other years. My thought is that I'd drive it as the best version of a stock 3rd gen for a while to see how it does before I consider changing things.
Thanks in advance,
Christian
This thread has some really helpful information. The part about a '99 having the highest factory ride height prompted a question.
I'm new here and new to 4Runners. I hope you'll forgive me for not reading through the whole 60 pages of this thread for the answer. I'm sure it's in there, but I didn't find it by skipping around from page to page.
The question:
Given that a '99 has the highest factory ride height, is there anything besides the coils that would need to be changed on another year to have it match the '99?
In other words, if I had a '97, '98 or '01 and wanted to get it to the high end of stock ride height, what other parts in addition to the coils would I need to change to keep from negatively affecting the original geometry?
The reason for the question is that I'm planning on buying a '99 Highlander (aka Limited) with a V6, 5-speed, e-locker and 4.30 gears. If I don't find one, I'm wondering what it would take to clone it from another year. I'm open to any and all comments including those that go beyond suspension.
I think it's better to know what I'm getting into up front. If it's not a big deal then I may expand my search to other years. My thought is that I'd drive it as the best version of a stock 3rd gen for a while to see how it does before I consider changing things.
Thanks in advance,
Christian
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Nothin else besides putting in the 99 coils/springs. I used 99 coils on the front of my 96 to get 1” out of it. Wanted the stock spring rates but not a 2” like the rear so it would have more rake built into it for the constant weight in the back+ gear on trips.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Spriggs53
New member
Has anyone has any problems arise with their drive shaft or transmission after lift?
Context: I did Bilstein 5100’s all around, OME 881 in the front and OME 890 in the rear, roughly 2” overall lift. Recently I started noticing a grinding/humming/groaning coming from around the front end. At first I thought it could be my bearings. I got the FIL to help in locating the noise and we narrowed to down to the area around where the drive shaft meets the transmission. Its rwd and automatic. I ask because it only just started around the time I did the lift. I will be talking to a transmission expert soon to figure out exactly whats going on but I want to make sure I’m not missing something here with the lift information. I didn’t do any of the accessories like panhard bar drop on anything.
Context: I did Bilstein 5100’s all around, OME 881 in the front and OME 890 in the rear, roughly 2” overall lift. Recently I started noticing a grinding/humming/groaning coming from around the front end. At first I thought it could be my bearings. I got the FIL to help in locating the noise and we narrowed to down to the area around where the drive shaft meets the transmission. Its rwd and automatic. I ask because it only just started around the time I did the lift. I will be talking to a transmission expert soon to figure out exactly whats going on but I want to make sure I’m not missing something here with the lift information. I didn’t do any of the accessories like panhard bar drop on anything.
DoctorPopcorn
New member
At the most, I'd hope that it's a wearing U joint that you could be hearing, but it could be a ton of things. After going through and doing a new lifts, a lot of new noises of older, worn parts can come out, but that's not to say a failure of anything is immanent. A 2" lift is pretty mild, so I wouldn't be too concerned about anything being too overly stressed. A few things to research and check out on your truck:
-Did you do any other front end work/component replacement? Lower ball joints, outer tie rods, etc? Not necessarily cause of the noise, but depending on your mileage, good to do all that stuff while you're in there.
-Have you greased any of the driveshaft grease zerks? Simple, but it'd be nice if this was the cause of your issue. This would be the first place I'd start
-It's not super common, but maybe it could be a U joint or the spiders? Again, try greasing first
-Check/change your rear diff fluid, and make sure you do it on as flat of a surface as possible. There are a few good tips in this thread
Again, a 2" lift is fairly mild, in my opinion, so I wouldn't be as concerned with all of the supporting mods, though a panhard bar raise/drop kit from Eimkeith might make the truck less squirrely and handle better in the corners, if you've noticed a big change since the lift. Also, I assume you got a good alignment after? I paid for the unlimited Firestone alignment when I first lifted, and they were absolute garbage. Went to a local shop and they had it dialed in perfectly.
My brother did the ToyTec superflex lift in spring 2020, and he's just now finished chasing down all the noises...
Spriggs53
New member
Well, I had a similar line of thinking, seeing as that many people put in a 3” and haven’t reported any problems, and thats why I wanted to go with a 2” because it provides everything I want, but without much of the stress. I’m wondering if maybe there is something that could be exaggerated by the lift that I’m not thinking of.
Since I bought it (under 1 yr ago) I replaced the ball joints, outer tie rods, stabilizer bars, timing belt, water pump, accessory belts, valve cover gaskets, air intake manifold gaskets, all camshaft plugs and seals, crankshaft seal, the whole nine yards. The only thing I haven’t done yet that I will be doing soon is the rear axles seals and bearings, they are starting to go bad. I got an alignment before the lift but I never got an alignment after the lift because I ordered some rims and I’m waiting for them to come in so I can go ahead and get a full alignment done, rather than getting an alignment twice.
We checked the u-joints and they felt very solid, I’ll definitely try greasing them though, thats a good starting point. There isn’t any noise coming from the differential side hardly at all, and we even check the play in the spiders and they feel solid too. One thing we did notice is that the u-joint on the transmission side seemed to be pretty hot. I don’t know how normal that is. But the noise appears to be coming from within the transmission somewhere. There was actually a variety of noises that came and went while trying to diagnose, some of them came from the torque converter and others came from where the drive shaft mates with the transmission. The thing thats really weird to me is that the previous owner babied it like crazy. He was very conscientious about keeping the machine well oiled, in a manner of speaking. It practically received 0 abuse, so the transmission going out or being damaged in any way seems weird to me. I got it stuck once and put it through some abuse by accident but nothing too crazy, nothing that would kill a transmission for sure. The FIL wondered if maybe the lift was pulling the drive shaft out of its socket just enough that it would make that noise, but we couldn’t ever come to a conclusion on that thought. Could maybe, like you said said, a lack of fluid in the differential be causing some extra friction on the drive shaft that could be sending it to the tranny? I don’t know, I’m at a loss.
Pardon me if this is widely off topic.
Devbot
New member
Trans no, driveshaft is very common. What's happened essentially is the needle bearings in the u-joints have worn down to a very specific angle over time and now that the angle has changed, they're riding at angles rarely experienced before and causing them to wear down differently and hit lots of high/low spots. It is highly recommended you get a new driveshaft altogether, you can look into it more yourself but the long-and-skinny of it is Toyota essentially made it impossible to replace 2/3 of the u-joints, both in the double cardan; not only are the yokes of the cardan joint halfway recessed (literally right at the u-joint caps) and very round so nothing will hold flat against it, but I've also read these yokes are also under a bit of tension and will flare outwards like 50-100 thou once the u-joints are removed, also making it impossible to seat the cap without gouging the sockets of the cardan joint. Take it from someone who wasn't aware of this and proceeded to spend over 9 hours trying to replace these only for the problem to persist until the shaft was replaced altogether - worst Saturday of my life (fwiw this was also something I experienced directly after my lift). Sometimes you can see/feel the u-joint play, sometimes you can't at all, and sometimes you only can if it's moved in just the right away and you squint just hard enough
It sounds pricey but believe it or not aftermarket driveshafts can often be had for less than OEM and be built almost specifically for your vehicle AND with better materials+design to boot. Usually costs around $350ish, while OEM ones usually cost $400+
Spriggs53
New member
Man, this sound awful. But hey, if we’re able to learn from it then you’re a life saver. Does this still apply to a RWD drive shaft? Also, where would you recommend looking for one?
Devbot
New member
Yes I'm talking about the rear driveshaft going from the trans to the rear diff, the front driveshaft is not spinning unless you engage 4WD. You could always look for a local driveline shop, otherwise many people here recommend Tom Woods, I went local myself (needed it asap) but I've heard nothing but stellar things about his business
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What is this?
Hello, long time lurker here
I'm in the middle of welding up a coastal offroad bumper, and can't for the life of me figure out what kind of lift I have. From centre of hub to limited fender I have 25" front and back.
The rear looks to be a bigger coil and shock but what the hell is on my front!? Obvs this was installed by previous owner. The only marking I found was on the skid plate. Just tells me it's made by pro-comp.
I will be putting a winch on this as well, and wonder If I need to change things up to avoid sagging.
Thanks in advance!
Hello, long time lurker here
I'm in the middle of welding up a coastal offroad bumper, and can't for the life of me figure out what kind of lift I have. From centre of hub to limited fender I have 25" front and back.The rear looks to be a bigger coil and shock but what the hell is on my front!? Obvs this was installed by previous owner. The only marking I found was on the skid plate. Just tells me it's made by pro-comp.
I will be putting a winch on this as well, and wonder If I need to change things up to avoid sagging.
Thanks in advance!
Devbot
New member
Holy spacer! I'm willing to bet the struts are for stock ride height, everything's just coming from that massive top plate spacer. They're a very cheap and very sketchy way of installing a lift, horrible for your ball joints at that size - though I'm very curious at wtf is going on with your upper?? Almost like it's an extended ball joint to compensate for the spacer, which is... odd.Hello, long time lurker here
The rear looks to be a bigger coil and shock but what the hell is on my front!? Obvs this was installed by previous owner. The only marking I found was on the skid plate. Just tells me it's made by pro-comp.
I will be putting a winch on this as well, and wonder If I need to change things up to avoid sagging.
Thanks in advance!
Those shocks almost look familiar but I can't put my finger on it, have you searched for a label maybe hiding under the dirt? I'd assume so but doesn't hurt to ask
Interesting skid design, I haven't seen one connect at the alignment cams before. Probably ultra-secure but I imagine that'd be a pain to put on/take off
Edit: I just noticed the steel rods being used for a "diff drop"... Oh my. Guess that's how he avoided blowing through CVs :snacker::snacker:
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