Quote:
Originally Posted by pluton
I disabled my instrument panel door ajar light because I wanted to be able to leave the hatch open for hours or days while camping without draining the battery. Therefore, I use the dome lights to tell whether any door is ajar, including the hatch. Later, the rubber liner came off of the hatch latching mechanism (the part that strikes and holds onto the striker plate). After the rubber "glove" detached, it became difficult to fully shut the hatch. It felt different, and the dome light would stay on. Sometimes I have to shut the hatch 3 or 4 times before it fully closes(going by the dome light).
I've ordered the replacement latch (≈$91 from Amayama, ≈$130 local online). I am both looking forward/not looking forward to opening up the rear hatch and attempting to replace the latch.
|
You don't actually have to disassemble the rear hatch itself to replace the latch (or at least the one on the bottom of the hatch) if you really don't want to
it's held on with three 10mm bolts and then you theoretically could cut the connector off and splice on the new one, but i'm going to just put the new connector in with no splicing
the only problem i've been aware of is getting the cable onto the latch, I haven't tried to put it on yet but it would appear I have to bend up the tabs holding it on at the latch in order to put the new one in, then bend it back down
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
----------------
1998 4Runner Limited 4WD w/Rear Locker
281k Miles
Build Thread
----------------
