RodrickHeffley's 1998 Limited Build (w/ pictures)

Hello and welcome to the RodrickHeffley build thread!

I bought my '98 Limited (and a set of tires) back in June 2020 for about 3700$. It had 264k and was bone stock.

It was built in April 1998, with every feature offered at the time (even gold badges, oooh!).

Over time I have been adding the 1999+ model year interior upgrades into the truck to get some more versatility out of it, which I dub the "'99+ Retrofit Interior "Limited+" Mods"

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Some brief specs:
Color: Desert Dune
Trim: "Limited+"
Engine: V6 3.4l
Drivetrain: 4WD
Locker: yes
Miles: 281,XXX
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Being freshly graduated from high school (2022) and moving onto college I hope to have more free time (and money) to work on my truck. This first post I'll try to keep updated with all the goings-on with my truck. While updates may be far and few between, I hope to keep this 4runner until I can't, which I hope never happens.

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CliffNotes History of the 4runner
-Built at the tail end of the 1998 model year
-Was a truck used for antenna maintenance at UofU
-Purchased by a mechanic for a local school district (c. 2012)
-Purchased by me in June 2020 @264k
-Hit 270k Nov. 13, 2021
-Nearly totaled (via brake checking) in Feb. 2022 @271k
-Hit 280k Oct. 11, 2023
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A few days after I bought it:

I'm not particularly mechanically inclined, but I've got a friend who is, so with my interior work and his mechanics work we've made a good team to work on all sorts of vehicles.

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Mods: (Strikethrough means removed or replaced) (I will specify years and models for parts from vehicles other than 4runners, if it's just the year then it's from a 4runner.)
My Mod Threads:
--Corolla Rear Cupholder Mod
--Steering Wheel Swap w/ Controls
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Exterior:

Non-mechanical
--Satoshi Grill w/Raptor lights & 2nd Gen TOYOTA badge
--Painted Grille black with silver Toyota logo
--Rust repair on back hatch
--Removed running boards
--Washer Fluid Sprayer Upgrade ('98 Rav-4)
--2011+ Honda Odyssey Windshield Sprayers
--Simplified Taco Whip Mod ('03 Tacoma)
--Reinstalled front fender flares ('96/'00)

Mechanical
--New Radiator @271k
--New Condenser @271k
--Used Vapor Canister @271k ('97)

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Interior:
Comfort
--Center Console Upgrade ('01)
--Steering Wheel Swap+Clock Spring ('96, '97) ('98 Camry)
--99+ Overhead console mod ('99)
--OEM Floormats
--2nd gen seat retrofit (with electronic controls) ('95 4runner)
--Rear Cargo Expansion Mod ('00)
--99+ Radio Bezel Upgrade ('99)
--Dash Replacement ('96)
--Black Window Switches ('99, '98, '96)
--Rear Button Panel ('01 Celica, '07 Scion tC)
--Front Button Panel ('02 Sienna, '06 Scion tC)
--Rear "Camping Cupholder" ('93 Ford F150)
--Corolla Rear Cupholder Mod ('05 Corolla)

Audio
--Kenmore Excelon KDC-X994 radio
--Apple Carplay Radio
--Sony XAV-AX3000 (with custom SWC interface cable)
--Horn Upgrade ('91 Mercedes 190e)
--New "Stronger" Horn ('13 Tacoma)

Electronics
--OEM steering wheel swap with radio controls ('03 Sequoia, '05 Sienna, '92 Camry)
--Sunvisors w/mirrors&lights on both sides & HomeLink ('00 Lexus RX300)
--Gentex 177 mirror install (compass, temp and autodimming) ('00 GMC Yukon)
--Garmin Mini2 Dash Cam
--ScanGauge II mounted in steering column plastic
--115v Inverter System ('03, '07 Matrix)
--Cargo area rear window switch mod ('05 Sienna)
--USB-C port in one cig lighter
--12v outlet replacements ('01 Tundra)
--Aux fuse box from ('99-06 VW Golf, Jetta & Beetle)
--Aux fuse box mounting bracket (?? Ford F150)
--Volkswagen Golf Seats (with heaters) ('12 VW Golf)
--Camry LE Heated Seat Switch ('07 Camry)

Lighting
--LED Taillight bulbs
--LED Interior Lights
--Clear running light housings
--Clear turn signal light housings
--Clear headlights ('99+)
--Rear hatch panel light using OEM housing ('99)
--OEM Foglight stalk mod ('99)
--Backlit Diff Lock Switch
--Red Cluster Needles ('99)
--New Dimmer Rheostat ('02 Sienna)

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Mods/upgrades in the pipeline:
-OEM Heated Mirror upgrade ('99)
-OEM Interior Hatch Release mod ('99 door handle) (Lemmeout 2.0)
-External transmission cooler (B&M 70268)
-2.5" Lift (Front: RCD 5100/Tundra TRD coils) (Rear: Bilstein 5100/OME890)

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Thanks for reading! My updates will be in the posts&pages that follow.

my 1998 Limited Build

Hey guys, been lurking for a while and decided to finally do a build thread. I'm 17 and a senior in high school so money is tight but I'm doing odds and ends now and then to upgrade my 4runner slowly.

Edit: I haven't formatted this properly yet so you might need to scroll to see progress (sorry)

So I got it in June 2020 for 3700$.
It had 264k miles and a bald set of tires.


It came with another set of tires and an air filter.

Bone stock as far as I can tell.

I replaced all the fluids and did the rear brakes. The radiator has been done before so I don't need to worry too much.

The first real "Mod" I did was install a wii in the back (i'm kidding i took this out)

I really started getting into it after another friend of mine bought a 97 and we've worked together on them. We first really got started after doing an hour and a half drive for parts: my center console and steering wheel, and his grill and interior pieces

The second day we really worked together we redid my rear lights making them LEDs.

shortly after, i blacked out the grill, planning to tint the headlights in the hear future. (and make a satoshi when i find an xtra grill hmu)

I took off the running boards after because i don't use them.

I did the 99+ center console mod, which was my real "first" one, and installed a radio the guy i got my steering wheel from threw in for 10 bucks.


By far one of the harder parts of doing this mod is relocating the switches, but after some trial, I got it.


Then shortly after replaced all the LEDs in the dash with white leds:


I took the green cover off the key light too to make it more amber, then replaced my ratty 98 leather steering wheel with a pristine one from a 96. I also put on the plastic that goes behind the wheel and had to replace the clockspring to make the cruise control work.

Shortly after, I got some OEM floormats because the cheap AutoZone ones I had weren't cutting it.

As well as the floormats, I got myself a keyfob to unlock the car when I'm away. It only unlocks, no locking, but it works as far as I can tell, the alarm and everything.

Then, I decided to make it a turd. no i'm not kidding.

After I did this, I started on my hardest endeavor yet: fixing the rear hatch rust. I don't have a before picture because i'm dumb but trust me it was bad. I was quoted a price way too high so figured i'd do it myself.



During the process of the rear hatch fix, I painted the license plate bezel and replaced the lights above the license plate because they were stuck above the bezel. Also got a license plate cover to match.


However, I broke a clip off of the keyhole, so it was down to Pick N Pull for me.
I got one finally after breaking two, and also got a black upper center console plastic thing, a WORKING CLOCK (wut), a spoiler that I think I won't use and some interior pieces to 100% finish off my interior.

The clip I broke:

Bodywork tuckered me out. So, I did the next logical thing and went and bought two 2nd gen seats thinking they were 3rd!
This dilema led me to reupholstering the old 3rd gen seats with the foam and cloth from the 2nd gens, and yes it is hard as it sounds.



Finished passenger seat:


On my last escapade to the pick n pull, I didn't get what I wanted but found something much better. A 1991 Mercedes 190e. Like many, I'm not fond of the stock "meep meep" horn but don't want to buy an expensive one.

Old german cars do just the trick. A bit of patience and one trip to the hardware store later, and I've got a loud "intimidating" horn.



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I think your off to a good start. Good job on seats. I would definetly look into age and condition of lower ball joints....tons of info on this, its a failure in design on these and can ruin a good car .
I find it funny you want to get rid of tow hitch...my current one came without and I need to get one on. Few things....its a good anchor point when/if you get stuck and you need to be pulled out from behind....its a anchor point if you need to pull someone out....its another "bumper" if you get hit from behind...bike and even small dirt bike rack...cargo carrier if you want to go really out and need to haul extra gas cans or firewood. Plus the bolts nearest the diff can be a nightmare...why I dont know who designed it....but the ones nearest the bumper have nuts welded in frame , the ones nearest diff are not welded in and can just sit there and spin....why... most likeley you will have to cut the bolts off. the guy who came up with that idea is prob the same guy who decided where to put the turn signal flasher realy....
headlight tinting.....these rigs have poor headlights as is...tinting could make worse

led's...dont forget the dome lights....makes a big difference when its dark out...outside camping etc.....led turn signals and parking lights are nice and make you more visable....however you will need to change your turn signal realy to one for led's....thats when you will discover the rotten location for the turn signal realy....its not terrible....but in all the cars I have owned...not a easy one. And if you do your brake lights in LED, dont mess with the 3rd one up in tailgate....well unless you get the right kind of LED....switching that one to an LED can make your ABS light kick on ....strange and write ups on that too. So I left mine not LED for that one.

I see you have a diff lock....is it working....they can freeze up if not used..mine get used often up here.. so like the 4wd...exercise it on occasion...i think the manual says one time a month.....but with the locker you might want to look into the "gray wire mod". Allows you to kick in the locker in 4hi as well as 2wd. For me, on some back roads, being able to kick in the locker and still be in 4hi has been helpfull. However driving with the locker on can be a little more tricky esp on pavement or at speed. I only use mine when im on gravel, mud or snow and at low speeds....but speeds high enough I dont want to be in 4low...and some back roads ive been able to drive with just the locker and not in 4wd at all.....better mpg and less wear and tear on 4wd system.

wheel spacers....well there are good brands and bad ones....and remember....the more your tires stick out from the fender flares....the more rock chips and dirt your gonna throw on the body. Id put money elsewhwere unless you need them for clearance like doing the TBU with early wheels or some off brand wheelswith the wrong offset

best of luck on your new adventure....these 3rd gens are great

Good start, sounds like you are pretty dedicated to cleaning up your truck. You should do the LBJ's as 3bears said and please go oem, I went with moog and am regretting it. I have spidertrax 1.25" wheel spacers and then US wheel adapters 1.5" ones as well if you're interested. One thing to think about with them is that it will kill your wheel bearings so I would get some wider rims instead.

For tinting headlights, you will NEED led's before going on the road at night. I have 6k lumen bulbs which I think work well and don't piss of oncoming drivers, but I also use my fog lights on my bumper.





For painting bumpers and fenders, I did that on my first 4runner. It's either you like it or you don't kind of thing. I liked it then, but I also had massive amounts of rust I was trying to hide as well.



When you'll be looking for lift and tire options (trust me you will) I run bilstein 5100's on OME coils and it works for me. I'd go with 2.5"/3" F/R because you can still get away with stock UCA's. If you want a rear lift cheap I'll be ready to sell my rear "long travel" 5100's and OME springs to you for cheap. 285/75r16 is a good max for auto/stock gears. Wildpeaks are solid and relatively cheap for A/T. Kanati Mud Hogs are really cheap decent M/T tires...along with Milestar Patagonia M/T.

my 1998 Limited Build

Iron duke said:

Good start, sounds like you are pretty dedicated to cleaning up your truck. You should do the LBJ's as 3bears said and please go oem, I went with moog and am regretting it. I have spidertrax 1.25" wheel spacers and then US wheel adapters 1.5" ones as well if you're interested. One thing to think about with them is that it will kill your wheel bearings so I would get some wider rims instead.

For tinting headlights, you will NEED led's before going on the road at night. I have 6k lumen bulbs which I think work well and don't piss of oncoming drivers, but I also use my fog lights on my bumper.

For painting bumpers and fenders, I did that on my first 4runner. It's either you like it or you don't kind of thing. I liked it then, but I also had massive amounts of rust I was trying to hide as well.

When you'll be looking for lift and tire options (trust me you will) I run bilstein 5100's on OME coils and it works for me. I'd go with 2.5"/3" F/R because you can still get away with stock UCA's. If you want a rear lift cheap I'll be ready to sell my rear "long travel" 5100's and OME springs to you for cheap. 285/75r16 is a good max for auto/stock gears. Wildpeaks are solid and relatively cheap for A/T. Kanati Mud Hogs are really cheap decent M/T tires...along with Milestar Patagonia M/T.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice, I'll definitely keep that in mind for sure, right now i'm trying to save up enough to get what i need instead of a bunch of small things so i'll be in touch if/when i need that rear lift

for the headlights, did you swap out the bulbs or take apart the whole headlight? I've seen people do both but not 100% sure


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RodrickHeffley said:

Thanks for the advice, I'll definitely keep that in mind for sure, right now i'm trying to save up enough to get what i need instead of a bunch of small things so i'll be in touch if/when i need that rear lift

for the headlights, did you swap out the bulbs or take apart the whole headlight? I've seen people do both but not 100% sure


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Click to expand...

Just swapped the bulbs, literally plug-n-play. For tinting the headlights I just taped around the truck and just spray evenly. Pretty simple, just make sure you shake well, prep the surface, and I've found out it goes on a lot better in like 70-80 degree weather.

my 1998 Limited Build

Iron duke said:

Just swapped the bulbs, literally plug-n-play. For tinting the headlights I just taped around the truck and just spray evenly. Pretty simple, just make sure you shake well, prep the surface, and I've found out it goes on a lot better in like 70-80 degree weather.

Click to expand...

good to know, thanks! for prep did you just clean it or sand too?

also, one or two cans?


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RodrickHeffley said:

good to know, thanks! for prep did you just clean it or sand too?

also, one or two cans?


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Click to expand...

You'll barely use 1/4 of a can. Just wiped the surface down really good and used wire wool, but you could just wipe it down and be good.

Okay, the homie who had the steering wheel has an extra grill, so i'm going down there today to get it, in turn allowing me to make my satoshi grill.

I need to find the metal I'm going to use as the mesh, probably will look when i go to get the grill.

I already have the toyota logo off a 2nd gen that I'm going to use, so all I really need is the mesh.

I ordered the tint and LEDs today, so I'll get everything installed at once likely.

Once I have the satoshi mod done, I'm going to install some amber lights above the logo as such:


Does anyone have advice for making the grill suitable for the satoshi?

You lost me at headlight tinting..

rickmum said:

You lost me at headlight tinting..

Click to expand...

yeah, i get that.
personally, I think the darker headlights will look cool in combo with the satoshi grill, something like this:



For a bit more context, you could look at iron duke's build thread. I really liked how they looked:
1999 4runner build highschool/college edition

I finally got the satoshi grill made, got some raptor lights in it and everything, just need to install it now.

so the grill was 20$, the mesh was 15, logo was 5, leds were 10, and the paint was 10.
Grand total for the satoshi is 60$. not bad for diy lol

Nice rig, looks like you are jumping right in. I'd skip tinting the headlights and running LED's in the factory halogens. The picture you posted has custom built HID's, that's the way to do it if you want to change the looks/performance.

cblock406 said:

Nice rig, looks like you are jumping right in. I'd skip tinting the headlights and running LED's in the factory halogens. The picture you posted has custom built HID's, that's the way to do it if you want to change the looks/performance.

Click to expand...

yeah, honestly, i think i'm just gonna return those for now as well, it'd be easier when i make custom ones in the future.

cblock406 said:

Nice rig, looks like you are jumping right in. I'd skip tinting the headlights and running LED's in the factory halogens. The picture you posted has custom built HID's, that's the way to do it if you want to change the looks/performance.

Click to expand...

This^

RodrickHeffley said:

yeah, honestly, i think i'm just gonna return those for now as well, it'd be easier when i make custom ones in the future.

Click to expand...

Good call.. Check out Bxbuilt. A bit pricey for custom built ones but you have the option to DIY also. I would say it was definitely worth the cost. DIY is not super difficult but very tedious and time consuming..

+1 for BXBuilt, They're a little spendy, but there well worth the cost IMO. I got some headlights from him last summer and its night and day over the old projectors I had and pretty comparable to LED light bars (from what I've seen, I don't currently have one on my rig). They have RGB halo's too that are pretty cool if you like customizing the look of your rig

satoshi installed!!

honestly, for my first real cosmetic/wiring job i'd say i did a good job.



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Last week me and my bud went and did the cargo area back window switch mod, and I went to Ye Olde Pick N Pull and got the plastic for the rear door, as mine was scratched and cracked, plus the center console lid off a '00 for my bud.

Planning to get the rest of that plastic to have the whole "new" cargo area w/ bigger storage, but haven't had time to do so. (ignore dangling switch it's temporary)

Finally finished getting all the LEDs in too, except for the cigarette lighter. PO somehow broke the bulb off in the socket, thankfully is replaceable and can be done somewhat easily.

Got a new PIEZO for the remote, and got a USB c outlet, both of which i hope to install soon.

My PNP list is looking pretty full right now, but they only have two third gens at the moment unfortunately.

Any tips for getting the back plastic off?

Also, anything for disconnecting the radio motor? I've got the fender flares so I don't know how to get the plastic to fold over to disconnect it.

BREAKING NEWS: I believe I have done a mod that is unprecedented on the forum. (or at least ive never seen any1 do it before idk lol)

I went to the PNP and stripped the entire cargo area out of a 2000, and a little dremel later, voila:
I'd say it worked out pretty well, just a few little gaps but nothing to fuss about. Overall, I'm happy with it.

I also installed the USB C but that's much, much less interesting.

(also the piezo but that's even less interesting)

Anyway, I'll be back sometime soon with some more updates hopefully.
Winter is on the way and I need to get all the major stuff I want done.

today i completed the fabled 99+ overhead mod. tedious, blew a fuse, but it worked and looks good.


ignore it without the cover, i haven't put it on yet.
(also hit 270k miles over the weekend!)


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