3rd Gen T4R DIY Maintenance, Repair and Modification Videos

Grgg1978 said:

Hi Tim, I did not see a video on replacing the whole A/C system on a 4runner. Was wondering if you had one where the compressor and all components were replaced along with the suction and discharge line? If you don't, would this be something I could do at home as long as the system has been drained, then take it to a shop to have it recharged. Just want to make sure that if I did it at home that I wouldn't mess up the compressor if I drove it, without the air conditioning being turned on, to a shop to have it charged once I completed the install.

Click to expand...

mtbtim said:

If you have a clutch pedal that's feeling a bit sloppy, it might be time to renew some of the wear parts and possibly the clutch pedal itself. This video shows you how to remove the clutch pedal assembly from the rig, replace all the wear parts, and get it reinstalled.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Y22pmMqHULw" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Click to expand...

1. The wear on my clutch pedal assembly was so bad, I ended up having to replace the pedal and the pedal bracket above it. That bracket part is as follows:
   
   55107-35050 - Support Sub Assembly Clutch pedal
   
   It was $97 through McGeorge Toyota, but I would have rather not used it than have realized I needed it halfway through the repair (which is what happened).
   
   
2. There's a small bushing in the middle of the pedal arm for the clevis pin, and it's easy to miss. I think the video mentions it in passing. I pushed it out with a small socket and transferred it over to the new pedal. Without transferring it, the pedal will feel loose. If anyone needs the part, it's as follows:
   
   90386-08002 - Bush
   
   
3. As others have mentioned in other threads, you can do this repair without disconnecting the lines to the clutch master cylinder or the clutch master cylinder itself. That said, A. Be really careful not to stress the lines. And B. This means you must carefully thread the new gasket through from the side of the foot well and onto the two bolts.
   
   
4. It is possible to do this repair without removing the evap canister, but you'll spend far more time working around it than it would have taken to remove it. Just remove it like the video suggests.
   
   
5. I 3D printed the bushings with the toughest plastic available to me, which is almost certainly tougher than the stock parts. The modeling was done by another forum user:
   
   https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3450807-post16.html
   
   
6. The repair, while successful, seems to have altered the geometry such that one of my clutch pedal sensors (round white button) no longer depresses fully when the pedal is released. This means my cruise control stopped working. There's a threaded bolt to adjust it, so I have to get under there and fix it. I just wish I had noticed it before putting back in the assembly.
   
   
7. The main spring is difficult to get back into the assembly, but found it easier to do with my hands than with a tool. A bench vice is a must, as the video states. I used soft grips to keep from damaging any clamped parts.

mtbtim said:

Here's the original Cooling System Flush Video. Luckily I didn't delete it off our YouTube channel.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/oQsxmi-CNng" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Click to expand...

jwkiss0 said:

What’s the benefit to i this radiator over oem? I need a new radiator so maybe this is the way to go? My old one sprung a leak at 178,000 miles.

Click to expand...

JBurt said:

Bling.

Also you won't have plastic tanks, so it could last longer, and when/if it does spring a leak it's repairable if you can find someplace to do it.

Click to expand...

JBurt said:

I think if you've got a situation that warrants it, a bigger radiator with more passages makes total sense.

The reason I said bling and reparability is I think for 99.99% of 4runner owners, the cheaper stock radiator is more than sufficient. I run mine up a steep mountain grade in 115 degree weather, and run through desert washes in the same temps. I monitor my temps and haven't seen a need for a bigger radiator.

I did put a larger aluminum champion radiator in my Sequoia for towing a trailer in the summers, and that helped. (And I also like the bling)

Click to expand...

mtbtim said:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YywcR0E9bM4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Click to expand...