VSC OFF and TRAC/VSC lights both came on

Interesting...and thanks for posting that switch location.

$10 says that when the dealer scans you, it's gonna say *C1207. And since you know that the switch is fine...you're going to have to figure out why the system isn't seeing the correct voltage.
 
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I dont see what the trans temp has to do with the circuitry of the PNP switch.. but I guess Ill try it again. It was completely cooled off when I just did it.

Come to think of it, I dont think I can reach the switch with the trans at temp. You are brushing against the CAT the entire time you try to unplug the connector.
 
Sorry! I wasn't implying anything about trans temp pertaining to the swtich. I was just posting "out loud" that I saw a normal operating temp range for the first time. My bad! lol
 
I Love this place ! So my choices are 1) Black tape (always worked in my Volvo). Or 2) Pull the bulbs.

I know it's rare for you guys to not find the exact fix, and a Lot of research has been done......
 
BlueNun said:
I Love this place ! So my choices are 1) Black tape (always worked in my Volvo). Or 2) Pull the bulbs.

I know it's rare for you guys to not find the exact fix, and a Lot of research has been done......
Click to expand...


Well the only way to know a true fix is to know which code is setting off your fault. The only way that I knew that it was my LED's was because I got the C1207 code read at the dealer. There are lots of other codes that could trip the fault, so a proper fix really does depend on getting the code read...then going from there.

Bottom line, if you are ok without having the VSC and TRAC, just pull the bulbs and call it a day.
 
4-Ripcord said:
I dont see what the trans temp has to do with the circuitry of the PNP switch.. but I guess Ill try it again. It was completely cooled off when I just did it.

Come to think of it, I dont think I can reach the switch with the trans at temp. You are brushing against the CAT the entire time you try to unplug the connector.
Click to expand...

I ran into the same issue after I swapped my LEDs in the dash. You gave a great write up on that!! Thanks. I spent the last..... (too many hours to admit) trying to figure out what the problem could be. After running some test I discovered that when I was shifting into reverse there was current running to the Park and Drive lights on the cluster. Those bulbs were out before I did the LED swap and I only replaced the 3 74's that you wrote about. When I replaced the "P" and "D" lights with regular bulbs my problem went away. Im guessing that the ECU saw a small charge still going to Park and Drive because of the decreased load from the LEDs. I know you sold your rig but figured you would want to know a solution. Hopefully this will help you sleep a little easier now.
 
BigFishAllDay said:
Answers in red. I can't see how you would have fried the switch in the process of chaning your dash over to LED's, but the possiblity of you having caused a short is there. Maybe you wiggled a connecter or pulled on a wire?
Click to expand...

I ran into the same problem. I called the Toyota TAC line and they said this is a known issue when swapping out bulbs for non-OEM bulbs, not just LEDs. Even if you swap with a #74 from Autozone you could have this problem. Before I did the swap my "P" and "D" lights were out in the cluster. When I replaced those bulbs with OEM #74 my VSC problem went away. I still have LEDs for the three main backlights.
 
I have had these lights come on periodically however it never throws a code.

My "D" light has been out since I bought it, could just the light being burned out cause these warning lights to come on?
and if I replace the D light I cant put in a LED without causing a problem, so have to put in a OEM #74 bulb just to have it burn out in a year?
 
Nunyabiz said:
I have had these lights come on periodically however it never throws a code.

My "D" light has been out since I bought it, could just the light being burned out cause these warning lights to come on?
and if I replace the D light I cant put in a LED without causing a problem, so have to put in a OEM #74 bulb just to have it burn out in a year?
Click to expand...

According to the guys at TAC the burned out bulbs could cause the problem. It took 2 techs at the TAC center and a Field Engineer before we got it figured out but thats what they are saying. EIther way its working for me now so I am stoked. Hope that helps.
 
redallred said:
According to the guys at TAC the burned out bulbs could cause the problem. It took 2 techs at the TAC center and a Field Engineer before we got it figured out but thats what they are saying. EIther way its working for me now so I am stoked. Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

Thanks
 
I searched and searched and did not find this thread until I added the C1207 code, and after paying $69 for a shop to scan. The shop stated that my Neutral Safety Switch was bad, which it could have been because I took it apart to inspect, clean and grease with dielectric grease. I tested the switch by trying to start in all gears. It would only start in Park or Neutral, which led me to believe the switch is doing it's job. My VSC lights still came on, then I found this thread. I am not saying the shop made a mistake, but anyone would have been very upset to replace a very expensive switch and not have the problem fixed! Who would have thought that the indicator lights would be an integral part of the system? Almost makes me want to go back to a Ford!
I have seen some people post that they do not like the VSC system, and understandingly so, but, all you have to do is turn on your center diff lock to turn off the VSC.
 
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I have been dealing with this same issue for like 4 months actually. Exactly what you describe, the lights dont come on until I start moving. No matter how I long I set there before I do.
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papaweely said:
Who would have thought that the indicator lights would be an integral part of the system?
Click to expand...

I just found this out this weekend when I was doing an LED swap. Both the VSC Off and VSC TRAC lights came on with the LED's in P-L. Removed them and re-installed the regular #74's and the lights went off. This affects 2001 and 2002 3rd gens with LED swaps automatic to manual tranny swaps.
 
Replaced lights and same issue!

I replaced several of my dash lights with blue led's today and same issue....now when I put it in gear, VSC lights come on. I ran a scanner on it and no codes, just the VSC Off and TRAC off lights come on about 3 sec after I put in in R,N or D...any ideas?
 
follow-up: problem solved!

bmmarcom said:
I replaced several of my dash lights with blue led's today and same issue....now when I put it in gear, VSC lights come on. I ran a scanner on it and no codes, just the VSC Off and TRAC off lights come on about 3 sec after I put in in R,N or D...any ideas?
Click to expand...

I replaced the LED's with original bulbs in P-D and problem went away. Thanks for info on this! great forum!
 
Today I swapped all the bulbs in the instrument cluster with LEDs, and it was all good once I clocked a few of them to get the +/- right. I had once bad LED in the ABS spot, which made the trac/vsc lights come on. Put in a new LED and got polarity correct and all was good. Like others have mentioned, once you put the car in Drive or pretty much anything with the shifter the VSC/TRAC lights come one. I put the old bulbs back in the VSC/TRAC/ABS and still had the prob with it illuminating once you moved the shifter. So I put old bulbs back in P/D/R/N/1/2 and that made the lights stay off. So there is defniitly something being checked through the computer based on the voltage of the lights. So Im leaving all LEDs for everything but the Shifter lights and the ABS/TRAC/VSC, although I think those probably would be find with LEDs, but I just didn't feel like pulling the dash apart again.
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread but having VSC light issues

I just swapped the 3 24s in my '02 sport to led. I did Not swap any other 74s to led as I'd seen there were issues for other folks. While I was in the dash I noticed the D light was out. I had some oem 74s I pulled from the key ring & shifter so I put one in. D is on but so are both vac lights even though I used a (purloined) oem 74.

Any thoughts? This forum has been great so hoping so ;)

Figure I'll throw out my other couple electrical things...

Went to swap out the 3&4mm bulbs in the ECT/R window & climate. Got from superbright led & they didnt fit well, may have muscled too much & now neither gets light but window & defrost works, ECT does not... just got back from a pick n pull with "new" climate face so ill see if that fixes it.

Glove light swapped to led. Worked when plugged in & when driving off, not on the way home.

On top of that my new Kenwood android auto unit now gets power but no sound - was working through the install.

Also have rear cargo & license plate lights out - swapped for led, no dice (but the LED looks great in map & middle dome) thought they were all on the same fuse so very perplexed (auto wiring makes very little sense to me)

I feel I follow instructions well & am gentle on my beast but have no clue when troubleshooting.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks
 
I'm experiencing the same issue with VSC/TRAC lights coming on when putting transmission in gear, but for a different reason (I think) than the ones already discussed above.

I disconnected my battery to remove my steering wheel before the issue arose. After reading this thread, I replaced my D bulb which was out. Lights remain on.

Also want to mention that I went ahead and recalibrated the yaw rate and deceleration sensor zero point using instructions in another thread, and lights remain on.

9/1/18 ETA: hooked up a buddy's scanner today, and it's throwing code C1231 Steering Angle Sensor.

9/12/18 ETA: replaced the O'Reilly D bulb with an OEM D bulb, performed YRADSZP calibration again and lights are off! I read elsewhere to disconnect the negative battery terminal before recalibrating, so that and the OEM bulb both may have contributed to the fix.
 
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Gerjer89 said:
Yes I will explain. The reason why it threw a code is because the skid plate ecu monitors the voltage level of the trac system. By putting led lights(low resistance, therefore increase in voltage), the skid plate ecu saw that voltage jump up, which isnt normal, which it thinks that there is a problem with the trac system due to the voltage just going up suddenly. All the ecu does is monitor voltage, so that's why it turn on the trac light because of the voltage level going up which it's not use to seeing. I can gurateen u that it's the led bulb that u put in the prndl(cluster). Report back.
Click to expand...

Hi Gerjer89, sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but i did a search and after sifting through all the results, this is the most relevant thread. You had mentioned that it's bulb for the shifter, and I did change that to a LED bulb. However, I changed it last month, and for about a month, everything was fine. No warning lights. Then yesterday when I went out to run some errands, the VSC Off and TRAC Off lights came on, but no CEL. If the LED bulb is the culprit, wouldn't it have shown up immediately after I had changed it?

I will try swapping an incadescent bulb to test. I was just wondering why it took a month for the problem to show itself? I'm driving a lot less these days, like everyone else due to shelter in place, but I do drive my car at least a few times a week, so it wasn't just sitting around.
 
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