A Warning To Members With E-Locker Retrofit

Stockwell45

New member
So today after hitting my favorite local trail, my elocker remained in the locked position and would not disengage. I got home to take the motor off the locker to manually disengage it, and found this once I removed it.

P5290065.jpg~original


Even though my sway bar is about a half inch away, it obviously still rubs pretty good on the actuator cover when I am on the trail. I don't think this caused my problems, but it has worn through and you can see the electronic components inside the actuator. It would have no doubt sooner or later filled with moisture and dirt and failed. I know many people who put in lockers keep the sway bar, and I'm not sure if 4runners equipped with an elocker from the factory have different sway bars or not, but this could be a costly problem for many people.

I sealed mine up the best I could, just figured I would give the heads up to people to make sure their sway bar isn't rubbing a hole through the actuator cover!
 
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Probably for the best anyways ... I am hard-pressed to notice any difference with mine off but you do have those softer LC coils
 
Probably for the best anyways ... I am hard-pressed to notice any difference with mine off but you do have those softer LC coils

I know that if you add Polyurethane bushings, there is a HUGE difference in driveability on road, and the old rubber bushings give very little support in comparison. I can see why disconnecting the bar on a NON POLY'd bar, would make no difference to the feel of the suspension.

That being said, I also have the LC coils, and they are very squishy....
 
Hey, did anyone ever find an answer to this? I took some front links and put them in the back for the adjusted lift. Any thoughts out there as to wether or not this is a fix to this issue? Callin out to the to you guys:horn:
 
Factory e-locker here. The longer links won't help. I had switched mine out for front links when I noticed this:

Well I changed out my broken rear UCA last night, and while I was under there I noticed this:



Looking closer:



My rear sway bar is sitting on the e-locker housing, grinding away at it. I won't be having that!





:bigok:

Now I have no rear sway bar, and the front sway bar is unhooked. I'll just sit down and wait right here for someone to come and tell me how unsafe it is :director::lalala:

It wasn't a problem until the 8 wraps went in and gave me a ton of lift. Luckily, I caught it early.

Edit: I guess I should say longer links didn't help for me. But for someone with less lift, it might be worth a shot. :noidea:
 
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I'm getting ready to do my retrofit, this is pretty helpful. I've already removed my front sway bar and feel no difference without it.
 
Hmmmmm... interesting.... I know running with no bar is the option. Thanks for the response Kraze.

Are you running Retro or factory installed? Is there a different swaybar to make the 3" function without contact?
 
Sway bar???? What's that? Probably one of those metal things I have in a pile on my side yard.
:lmao:

You know... this is the difference between a truck that is excellent-functional and a toy that needs 35's, a straight axle, and a roll cage.
 
My cruiser was a daily driver for over 15 yrs, with a straight axle and NO sway bars. I put 120K on it that way. When I first removed them it felt tippy, but once you adjust to the extra body roll it was never an issue. Of course it don't handle like Supra, but it weighs 7000 lbs. so its a pig.
 
I will have to take a look at that myself when I see mine next. But since my retired father is driving mine at the moment, it will see less flex than a mall crawler.

I want to say someone on YT ran into this problem years ago and fixed it by fabricating a new cover out of metal (stainless perhaps).

What is that little thing under Kraze's 4runner in the corner? A spi...., oops it is the New Year and I don't want to break any resolutions just yet.
 

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