35's on the street?

UnderFire

UnderFire

New member
So, I know that it is a ton of work to go to a 35" tire in an offroad application, due to clearances at the firewall, and fender wells in general.

But, I'm going to lift my truck, but it will never be beat on in the woods, or flexed out constantly, it will be a street queen, what is needed to clear 35's for daily driving, and decent turn radius before rubbing the frame?

I will be re-gearing already, even on a mild lift i would have to, and running manual front hubs so CV shafts shouldn't wear too bad.

I was planning on LC 8 Wraps, Tundra 5100's, 1" Diff Drop, Running stock FJ alloys on 1.25 or 1.5" Spacers, and running whatever body lift is necessary.
 
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The biggest issue on that size tire is it getting stuffed in the wheel well. For street use I'm sure the lift you stated above would clear. You may not even need a BL.

EDIT: I'll be putting my buddy's 35s on my rig here next week or so to see how they clear. I'm running 3" lift up front and ~3.75" in the rear and no BL. So I can let you know how it rides on the street. What gears are you going to run?
 
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Whats the width on the FJ rims again?? For a street rig, I would go with wider wheels to minimize the ballooning effect on the tire wear. Backspacing is going to be critical to avoid frame rub.

You'll still need to trim plastic and pound with a BFH, but I don't think you'll need to actually cut any metal. I had full clearance, no rubbing at all even flexed with the 33's - I tried to pull out of the parking lot with the 35's and rubbed just making the first turn onto the main street.
 
But, I'm going to lift my truck, but it will never be beat on in the woods, or flexed out constantly, it will be a street queen, what is needed to clear 35's for daily driving
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SO LAME.

You sound just like my neighbor. :fear: He has a lifted Wrangler 4x4 w/ lockers sitting on 35s (I was like wow) and when I asked him about wheeling he said it is for street only.

I can't even get him to come out to Anza Borrego desert which is flat and dusty, no rocks because he is afraid of damaging his special street truck. :rofl:

Moral of the story. Sell your 4Runner and buy a Jeep or a hummer. :whoo:
 
rideexileex said:
Whats the width on the FJ rims again?? For a street rig, I would go with wider wheels to minimize the ballooning effect on the tire wear. Backspacing is going to be critical to avoid frame rub.

You'll still need to trim plastic and pound with a BFH, but I don't think you'll need to actually cut any metal. I had full clearance, no rubbing at all even flexed with the 33's - I tried to pull out of the parking lot with the 35's and rubbed just making the first turn onto the main street.
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I believe it's 7.5" or 8" in the 16" variant....

OP - if you're running 12.5" wide tires on those wheels you're gonna need some wheel spacers to clear the UCA. Prob gonna have to trim your valence and hammer your pinch welds.
 
I you running a 35/12.5 then your gonna want a 9" wide rim minimum and I would shoot for around 4-3.75 on you backspacing. If you go narrower on the width of the rim your likely going to cup the wheels and get center wear.


Your going to have to trim your front pinch weld and the valence on your front bumper.

Go for a 2" bl and that should put you high enough to clear them.

Just my thoughts on it.
 
I'm not saying it'll never see off-road, just it's not a trail rig and I won't ever be bashing it in the rocks, it will see sand and snow but not very often.
 
Honestly if your gonna take it off road then build it for that and just drive it on the road. Plus it adds to the "cool" factor.
 
Nothing wrong with not wanting to drive a lifted truck off road. Everyone has different preferences. To each their own.

I would go with what the guy above me said and build it up for offroading even if you are gonna drive it on the road. No point in doin all that work and then you rub and tear stuff up over little bumps offroad.
 
I'm planning on it, just wanted to see if I could pull off 35s first, sounds like I'm going to stick with a 33" MT, I'm not leaving it stock either, my plan is tube bumpers,.sliders, full size spare, and a 3/4 length roof rack. It isn't going to happen overnight though.
 
35's, lift, gears, and you're just driving around town?

:noidea:

4runners on 265/75/16's get bad enough mpg as it is.

ETA: This might help you though, if you're dead set on it.
GearRatioChart1_zpsbbff7d13.jpg~original
 
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BrianSD_42 said:
OK great to hear. The story about my neighbor is true. He won't even drive on a fire road.
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Went out to a cabin in sedona with some buddies. One of my friends bought another one of his friends that i didn't know. This kids dad bought him a brand new 2013 rubicon unlimited with fox shocks all the way around on 35s.

I told him, dude were in sedona with a rubicon, we have to take it in offroad...

His response, i dont really take it off road, plus i dont know how..

Thats pretty lame. I do not understand people that do things just for looks. if it doesn't go off pavement might as well buy a car.
 
UnderFire said:
I'm planning on it, just wanted to see if I could pull off 35s first, sounds like I'm going to stick with a 33" MT, I'm not leaving it stock either, my plan is tube bumpers,.sliders, full size spare, and a 3/4 length roof rack. It isn't going to happen overnight though.
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Are you planning on grinding curbs or what?? I'm all aboard the bandwagon on getting you to use the rig off the pavement, but why would you buy all this stuff if its hardly even going to need mud flaps?

My mentality is practicality. If you want a sweet aggressive looking truck thats just a DD, go for AT tires rather than muds. Your tires will last longer, and you'll see better MPG's and road traction.
 
I was running 35's with the ome lift with the 883's and 891's with no body lift it rubbed on the road quite a bit then I got a 2" body lift and it they don't rub on the road at all. I would say get a body lift or stick with 33's. I agree with the a/t's if you're not going to do much off roading, all terrains will give you much better road manners and still do the job when you do decide to take it off road.
 
War Sprout,

The only problem with that chart is the word "performance" should be replaced with "off road performance" because it certainly isn't 0-60 performance. The bigger the tires the more underpowered the truck feels. Pretty much the opposite of experiencing speed performance.
 
I disagree higher gear ratios make the truck perform better on and offroad. As long as the tire size is upgraded equally, 33s and 4.88 would give the best performance in stop and go traffic as well as the better low end torque in offroad applications.
 
JamesDean91 said:
I disagree higher gear ratios make the truck perform better on and offroad. As long as the tire size is upgraded equally, 33s and 4.88 would give the best performance in stop and go traffic as well as the better low end torque in offroad applications.
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I can vouch for this. I run 33 A/It's with 4.88's and my truck is a lot faster on road, and drives over everything.
 
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