Mind confirming my lift plan? About to purchase parts.

Joelev

New member
Preeettttttty sure I've got this right, but I just wanted to double-check against y'all's expertise. After getting the truck back to Brooklyn, I feel like I can't wait to get the new suspension on. Shitty New York streets rattle the truck worse than a dirt road!

Front: Tundra TRD yy/yb progressive coils (Picked up from Craigslist for $100 with 60k miles; Anybody need any full-height Bilsteins? :llama:)

2 x Bilstein (24-100144) 5100 Series Shock Absorber, adjustable. (Amazon)

2 x Monroe 904900 Strut-Mate Strut Mounting Kit

1 x Toytec diff drop kit

Rear: 2 x Toyota 48531-69417 Shock Absorber (Amazon; little more spendy at $57, but free shipping)

2 x OME 891 (I run with a sleeping platform in the back nearly at all times, which isn't all that much weight, but I'm hoping the Tokicos will soften them up a bit.) OR Toytec Superflex, since they're nearly the same price.

Gonna skip a new panhard until I see how everything lines up. Funnily enough, my frame is ever-so-slightly tweaked—it tracks straight and still takes an alignment—which leaves my back axle off-center slightly to the left, so I'm thinking the driveline might end up being back in the center when I'm done! (I'm prepared to be disappointed, though.)

Plan is to reuse all the mounting hardware minus the new top plates for the front. Anything else I should I throw into the mix before I start ordering parts? I'm going cheap as possible while keeping things viable and safe.
 
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I don't have personal experience, but I've read the tokicos are a bit firm. It seems people tend to pair bilsteins with ome rears and tokicos with lc coils. Just good for thought.
 
Thanks. I'm considering going with the Toytec Superflex rears now, since it appears the prices for the 891s and the Toytecs are nearly the same. I may just throw up my hands and go 5100 all around! (So much for "nearly ready to buy." But I hope to pull the trigger tonight.)
 
Preeettttttty I've got this right, but I just wanted to double-check against y'all's expertise. After getting the truck back to Brooklyn, I feel like I can't wait to get the new suspension on. Shitty New York streets rattle the truck worse than a dirt road!

Front: Tundra TRD yy/yb progressive coils (Picked up from Craigslist for $100 with 60k miles; Anybody need any full-height Bilsteins? :llama:)

2 x Bilstein (24-100144) 5100 Series Shock Absorber, adjustable. (Amazon)

2 x Monroe 904900 Strut-Mate Strut Mounting Kit

1 x Toytec diff drop kit

Rear: 2 x Toyota 48531-69417 Shock Absorber (Amazon; little more spendy at $57, but free shipping)

2 x OME 891 (I run with a sleeping platform in the back nearly at all times, which isn't all that much weight, but I'm hoping the Tokicos will soften them up a bit.) OR Toytec Superflex, since they're nearly the same price.

Gonna skip a new panhard until I see how everything lines up. Funnily enough, my frame is ever-so-slightly tweaked—it tracks straight and still takes an alignment—which leaves my back axle off-center slightly to the left, so I'm thinking the driveline might end up being back in the center when I'm done! (I'm prepared to be disappointed, though.)

Plan is to reuse all the mounting hardware minus the new top plates for the front. Anything else I should I throw into the mix before I start ordering parts? I'm going cheap as possible while keeping things viable and safe.

Bilstein part# 24-100144 is for the rear non-adjustable 5100. 24-188265 is the part number for the adjustable front 5100.
 
Yeah, I realized that after I ordered them. Fortunately, it was before they shipped. I'm actually just waiting on the Bilsteins now, which I had to get from Wheelers because everywhere else was sold out. (I like Wheelers, they were just a little more expensive.)

I ended up grabbing a pair of Toytec Superflex for the rears with the Tokicos, so basically now everything is going to be new except the front Tundra coils. (Which made my ~$500 lift budget swell up to like $700, but still saving a little bit overall.)
 
Yeah, I realized that after I ordered them. Fortunately, it was before they shipped. I'm actually just waiting on the Bilsteins now, which I had to get from Wheelers because everywhere else was sold out. (I like Wheelers, they were just a little more expensive.)

I ended up grabbing a pair of Toytec Superflex for the rears with the Tokicos, so basically now everything is going to be new except the front Tundra coils. (Which made my ~$500 lift budget swell up to like $700, but still saving a little bit overall.)

Since you did go with Superflex rear coils and tokicos I would recommend lowering your stock rear bump stops. Ideally you want to lower them about the same as the lift you add, usually 3 1/4 - 3 3/4"s. This will allow your bump stops to actually work and more importantly it will save your shocks. If you wheel hard and fully flex out your tokicos can blow out from over compression. A lot of people add bump stops from other vehicles but usually the rubber is so soft it still over compresses. I would recommend making your own something like these.

4Runner (96-02) Super Soft Rear Bump Stops $150.00 & $12.35 USPS - $162.35 : Sonoran Steel, Sonoran Steel Custom Metal Fabrication L.L.C. Custom Toyota Truck Parts

Also when lifting you will want to add a little metal bracket for rear e brake line, adjust the auto shifter linkage, extend rear sway bar lines, bend rear brake line or I recommend an extended SS rear brake line for good measure.
 
Should have just purchased everything from us from the get go. :biggrin1:

Glad we could still help though!
 
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2015-01-27-13.54.19.jpg


Here's where I stand. Once the Tundra 5100s get here I'm going to track down a 4x4 shop (probably EVB in Danbury) and put this all together. (Don't have a garage here that I trust to do a lift, and I don't want to do it all with a Hi-lift on the street.)

I can probably pick up some Blazer bump stops to hold me over for streeting while I weld together something more durable.
 
Last edited:
2015-01-27-13.54.19.jpg


Here's where I stand. Once the Tundra 5100s get here I'm going to track down a 4x4 shop (probably EVB in Danbury) and put this all together. (Don't have a garage here that I trust to do a lift, and I don't want to do it all with a Hi-lift on the street.)

I can probably pick up some Blazer bump stops to hold me over for streeting while I weld together something more durable.

IMO blazer stops are useless, they compress to pretty much the same location as stockers. Another member posted this up in some pictures.
 

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