[Jahmiroquai]

Hey Folks,

My name is Matt and this is my build / repair thread.

Current picture:



A bit about myself - I was a long time Jeep guy, went through 2 TJ's and a JK. I finally joined the dark side as I wanted to do more camping vs rock crawling, and wanted to spend less time wrenching and more time enjoying my ride (the irony will be apparent a bit further down). I also enjoy fixing E36 BMW's and the occasional motorcycle.

If you're reading this, stop by and say hello!

Anyway, I used to do a lot of this type of wheeling



And now i'm looking to do more back woods camping / fishing trips. Pooch seems to like the extra room



3rd gen T4R Specs:
1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4

• 4x4 Multi-mode center dif
• TRD Gen 1 Supercharger
• Factory rear diff locker
• Auto trans

Repairs & Maintenance to date

• Differential fluid change
• transfer case fluid change
• radio antenna replaced
• New Key Fobs programmed
• Center hub caps repainted
• fuel injectors replaced
• spark plugs & wires replaced
• factory trailer wiring removed/replaced with Hopkins kit
• Supercharger rebuild
• Intake manifold - lower gaskets & middle gasket replaced
• front swaybar frame-side bushings replaced
• Upper ball joints
• reboot passenger CV axle
• replace Body Control Module (BCM)
• Fluids – Engine, Diffs, trans, transfer case, coolant
• Clean Door & window switches w/ WD-40 Contact Cleaner
• Climate Control Unit rebuild via John on the T4R forum
• Valve Cover Gasket replacement, including: valve cover gaskets, spark plug grommets, cam freeze plugs, half-moons, valve cover washers

Mods to date

• Cobra 75 installed
• CB antenna mounted in rear tailgate opening
• Yakima rail rider mounting hardware
• yakima cross bars
• yakima SKS lock cores
• husky front, rear, and cargo liners
• Gorilla locking nuts
• Bilstein 5100's all corners.
• Old Man Emu F&R
• Custom rock sliders, weld-on
• BF Goodrich All Terrain KO2 265/75R16
• PIAA 10704 H4 Night Tech High Performance Halogen Bulbs
• Spidertrax 1.25” spacer on all 4 corners
• Video head unit & backup cam
• DIY Satoshi grill
• Hard mounted fire extinguisher in the cargo area
• Savage front & transmission skids
• SuperBrightLEDs in map & dome lights
• Lotus LCA mount skids
• ARB front bumper
• Hella off road lights wired to factory fog circuit
• BaoFeng BF-F8HP ham radio & mobile antenna
• Warn Evo 8-S & Warn winch solenoid
• Built-right Uniball UCA from the Truck Shop
• Warn EVO 8-S winch, Warn winch solenoid, flip-up tuffy license plate holder
• Blue Sea fuse block
• Toytec 1” BL
• TRD Dynamic Belt tensioner
• Cut static tensioner plate to support S/C nose cone
• Toy Tec rear bump stop extensions
• Wire for 7-way RV trailer connection
• Tekonsha P2 brake controller
  

You can also find me on instagram @Jahmiroquai

[Jahmiroquai]

Initial post-purchase maintenance.

Right after I took ownership, I set out to replace the differential and transfer case fluid. Transfer case and rear diff went smoothly enough, however on the front diff i managed to round out the hex-key drain plug



My neighbor & I tried to weld a regular nut to the drain bolt, but it was so seized that we ended up just snapping through the weld. It ended up taking an air chisel to knock it out.

The second preventative maintenance job was to replace the Lower Ball Joints. After reading a few threads, I decided to go with OEM LBJ replacements. That job was easy enough

When i bought the truck, the radio antenna would not cycle up & down. Apparently there are some plastic teeth that can wear out over time, and the solution is to install a new antenna. The worst part about this job is removing the passenger fender to access the antenna motor. Turns out, my antenna teeth were pretty chewed up.



Now I had read that the factory auto trans cooler is not sufficient. I went ahead and installed a B&M cooler, ran in series with the factory cooler. I topped off the install with Toyota ATF.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TS...=w1024-h921-no

I made a mistake and ran the ATF return / send line sort of opposite of gravity - meaning the send line pumps to bottom of B&M cooler, and return line draws from the top. One of these days when I'm motivated I will switch those 2.

[Jahmiroquai]

One of the first Mods I did was to install my Cobra 75 I had left over from my jeeping days. I ran the power through the firewall straight to the battery



And drilled a small hole next to the cig lighter to run the mic plug. Had to remove part of the dash bezel for this



In retrospect, it's definitely possible to mount the receiver behind the dash and run the plug out through the driver side foot well, with no need for drilling.

And a few stickers, for the added +5 HP

[Jahmiroquai]

Now we get to the first major repair job since buying my 4R.

The truck was running really rough, and throwing a few misfire codes (p030X). I would also occasionally smell gas. The symptoms seemed to show up mostly after having driven the truck a bit, allowing it to heat soak in a parking lot, and then starting up again. Searching the forums, the usual culprit is a leaking fuel injector. So i ran down the list of things to check.

Checking spark plugs. None looked particularly bad, but given the mileage and unknown service history, I replaced all 6 along with coil packs & wires



Throttle body off & cleaned



Cleaning MAF (not pictured) and IAC



Removing supercharger



Preparing to remove the fuel rails & injectors



This is where this repair spiraled. I initially set out to remove/replace the # 4 & #6, given that's where my misfire codes were tripping. When i removed the rail, part of the #2 injector came out, and the tip got lodged in the intake manifold. If you are searching and come acorss this, be sure to label every vac hose removed, and place all hardware in a labeled zip loc baggie. Your re-assembly will be much easier.




I tried to get the debris out with a pick, with a shop vac, everything i could think of. After messing around for a couple hours (and after a few beverages) I managed to knock the tip down. I bought a cheap USB bore scope off Amazon for $16 (you get what you pay for - resolution was horrible) and i was able to see the injector tip down in the block. It eventually wedged under a valve rod (i'm guessing), and I could not get it out remotely. So, off came the lower manifold.

T-belt cover removed



Lower intake manifold removed





And here we have the sum'***** fuel injector tip removed.



When i was re-installing the lower intake manifold, i was torquing the manifold-to-head bolts to the 160 inch-pounds specified in my Chilton manual. Unfortunately I was using a cheap Harbor Freight 3/8" drive torque wrench I had lying around, which was completely out of calibration. Managed to shear off a bolt, which needed to be drilled out, and I rented an inch-pound wrench from Autozone to finish the job.

I don't care what the Harbor Freight warranty is, I'll be trashing that that wrench and buying a Craftsman or Husky. I've recently been migrating my tools from HF to name-brand. Who cares about the HF lifetime warranty - I'd rather not have the damn tool break in the first place.

[jpeaslee]

or ya know, words...

[Jahmiroquai]

Originally Posted by jpeaslee

or ya know, words...

Haha should have photos added above. Photobucket has gotten real slow lately. I may switch to a different photo hosting service.

[Jahmiroquai]

Removing the supercharger for the Fuel Injector job was a real pain. After reinstalling, I've been hearing a clacking noise at idle which leads me to believe the S/C bearings & coupler are due for a rebuild.

Normal sound:

https://youtu.be/08-Bk3nJAR0

S/C after removal & replacement for fuel injector swap.

https://youtu.be/oid6zFkTmEs

Anyone know if this chatter is normal?

[Unner]

Looks good so far. Nice to see someone doing the maintenance side first!

Originally Posted by Jahmiroquai

Haha should have photos added above. Photobucket has gotten real slow lately. I may switch to a different photo hosting service.

Forreal... I'm about sick of it. Some times it'll run fine, and others it'll take half an hour to load my library. I might try Flickr or one of the other ones.

[Jahmiroquai]

Originally Posted by Unner

Looks good so far. Nice to see someone doing the maintenance side first!

Thanks man. Your truck is sweet. I have a few more maintenance items to address, then I'd like to get some meatier BFG's or General Tires on there, and a small lift.

Here on the west coast, our go-to beach wheelin' & camping spot is Pismo beach. I used to take my Jeep there once a year. Have gotten busy with replacing the fuel injectors, work, and grad school, but I'm hoping to make a wheeling / camping / fishing trip out that way soon.


Photos of my old Jeeps at Pismo

[Unner]

I'm jealous. I want to drive on a beach so badly, nearest one to me is 8 hours ish that allows vehicles, but I'm hoping to take a trip out there in the next few months.

[Hepar]

Originally Posted by Jahmiroquai

Hey Folks,

My name is Matt and this is my build / repair thread.

A bit about myself - I was a long time Jeep guy, went through 2 TJ's and a JK. I finally joined the dark side as I wanted to do more camping vs rock crawling, and wanted to spend less time wrenching and more time enjoying my ride

The dark side? You mean you finally saw the light! Welcome.

[roll4life]

I wish you would have posted this thread a week ago. I just did pretty much the same thing that you did, except that I was replacing my knock sensors after throwing a CEL with p0330 code.

After replacing the knock sensor's and wiring harness, I got everything buttoned back up, just to start the engine and see smoke billowing out of the engine bay and gasoline pouring down onto the driveway.

Guessing I didn't quite get the injectors re-installed properly. Glad things when better for you!

[Jahmiroquai]

The Chilton's manual covers a lot of different trucks & years for one book, but it was extremely helpful in this job.

I originally pulled the rail & injectors while the lower manifold was attached, which sucked because #1, I bent the bronze fuel pipes pretty good during removal and had to reform, and #2 i dropped that injector tip.

When i rebuilt the rail, I did so on the bench. I used all new crush washers & banjo bolts.

Those crush washers, by the way, are a weird size and i was only able to order them as a Toyota OEM part, for like $3 a piece. You need 6 or 8.

I guess it's good i pulled the manifold though. The gaskets were not in great shape.

[Jahmiroquai]

Oh, also - replace all o-rings on the fuel injectors if you haven't already, and the rubber fuel injector grommet. Assuming you still have the factory parts in, 20 year old rubber doesn't like to be disturbed.

[roll4life]

I was just reading through the FSM and saw this
INSTALLATION
1. TEMPORARILY INSTALL INJECTORS AND DELIVERY
PIPES
(a) Install a new insulator to each injector.
(b) Apply a light coat of spindle oil or gasoline to 2 new Orings
and install them to each injector.

I probably should have read that before re-installing my injectors.

Looked at rock auto and found GB REMANUFACTURING 8037 for $5/injector
but now I'm wonder if it would be worth it to just get the injectors rebuilt for $20/injector.
Looks like there is a place in Ohio that does it with a pretty fast turn-a-round and they also replace the insulators and orings.