3rd gen 5vz AISIN clutch nightmare F-up

4Reak Show

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So last week I went to replace my crummy NAPA clutch for a sweet Japanese AISIN clutch. After a 3 hour fight I reinstalled the transmission with all new parts. And the damn thing wouldn't disengage. Grinding going into gear.

Pulled trans back out and confirmed "T/M SIDE" facing transmission as it should, according to the stamped markings. Instead of guessing and risking a third pull of trans I opted to reinstall my old clutch which had decent life left and I needed to get back home from work. Old cutch still worked great.

So WTF?? Turns out AISIN incorrectly marks this particular clutch. Kit CKT-040. And if I had turned the disk around to the "incorrect" side it probably would have been ok. But again I couldn't risk it at that time. Apparently 3.4's are unique in that the disk sits the opposite as compared to 99% of other vehicles. And of course, my information system at the shop says nothing about orientation. So I went with the stamped markings and got bit pretty bad.

I looked around online and there's a picture somewhere in the actual factory manual that tells you the deeper side protrudes into the flywheel. (Again, marked wrong AND opposite of every other vehicle).

I hope this helps somebody some day. Bummer that I put so much trust into a reputable company like AISIN. Somebody needs to fix this nonsense.
 
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Let us see a picture.
Do you see Aisin embossed to the disk or printed?
Try writing to the AISIN main office.
 
I already returned the part to RockAuto or I would have shared a picture. Who knows they might not refund me and I get it back. I was in a rage the 2nd removal so I didn't take any pics.

It was definitely an AISIN part tho. Had the legit packaging, looked really nice and all that. Just printed wrong. I'm thinking they stamp out these clutches and this particular disk fits multiple applications (like even maybe the 2.7 4Runner) and they don't take the time to reprint just for this one.

I think I will contact AISIN at some point.

I'm not really trying to stir the pot necessarily, more so trying to save someone else from my struggle and frustration.
 
You can get a exedy clutch made in Japan from autozone. I got one.

I have no qualms with my exedy clutch I've had in for the past 15k miles or so.

However, I'd seriously think about getting the AISIN throwout bearing instead of using whatever piece of garbage came with the exedy kit. Stupid thing started chirping after 5k miles or so and will not shut up.
 
I'd suggest OEM for the throwout bearing... no personal experience on the 4Runner, but I have had problems with every non-Toyota throwout bearing I have used and no problems with any Toyota TOB I have used... (turbo 4-cylinders)

-Charlie
 
I have no qualms with my exedy clutch I've had in for the past 15k miles or so.

However, I'd seriously think about getting the AISIN throwout bearing instead of using whatever piece of garbage came with the exedy kit. Stupid thing started chirping after 5k miles or so and will not shut up.

See. I'm the opposite. Mines good. And I go wheeling a lot. And a lot of water/mud play. Even replaced transmission. Still good.

So....
 
You can get a exedy clutch made in Japan from autozone. I got one.



I will go exedy after my rage dies down haha. Still boiling a bit. When/if the refund comes back to me I'll tackle it again. And I'll have pics. I should have researched more, since I assumed exedy was of poorer quality. Boy was I wrong.
Thanks
 
I'd suggest OEM for the throwout bearing... no personal experience on the 4Runner, but I have had problems with every non-Toyota throwout bearing I have used and no problems with any Toyota TOB I have used... (turbo 4-cylinders)



-Charlie



Funny you mention this. My truck is a swapped 2nd gen so I have to order a seperate 2nd gen TOB. I opted for KOYO as those tend to be bulletproof. I think those or NSK are pretty damn good. The new TOB and Pilot bearing I just put in are fine. Old clutch still works, just chattered a bit and I was excited to get that fixed. Newly cut flywheel seemed to help so far. Just bums me out when a Chinese (stamped made in China) NAPA clutch is marked properly and a Japanese one clearly was not.
 
See. I'm the opposite. Mines good. And I go wheeling a lot. And a lot of water/mud play. Even replaced transmission. Still good.



So....



Luck of the draw. And it's all about what you can tolerate. A lot of guys think it's supposed to be as smooth as a Cadillac. And when it's not they gripe. My issue was that I couldn't even shift into gears at a stand still (not disengaging). But weirdly the pedal felt great and had full travel to the floor. Just weird. And a bummer to lose all that time and energy.
 
I already returned the part to RockAuto or I would have shared a picture.

It was definitely an AISIN part tho. Had the legit packaging, looked really nice and all that. Just printed wrong. I'm thinking they stamp out these clutches and this particular disk fits multiple applications (like even maybe the 2.7 4Runner) and they don't take the time to reprint just for this one.

I'm in the middle of a clutch job started last night where I'm looking for help in how to remove the starter which made me find this thread and I can confirm that the Rockauto Aisin clutch kit is stamped Aisin and it has legit looking packaging (Aisin disc & diaphragm, Koyo pilot and release).

Anyone know if this round dot has any significance to us when putting it in?
 

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Not that I'm aware. All I know for sure is the THICKER more portruding end of the disc itself goes TOWARDS the flywheel. My disc was stamped "T/M side" (for transmission side) on the wrong side. Boned me bad on that one


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Not that I'm aware. All I know for sure is the THICKER more portruding end of the disc itself goes TOWARDS the flywheel. My disc was stamped "T/M side" (for transmission side) on the wrong side. Boned me bad on that one

Thanks for that hint about the thicker end of the disc facing the flywheel as I have never done a clutch job before so I don't know even the simplest things to look out for.

The disc does seem to be asymmetric in that the splines stick out more on one side and the springs stick out more on the opposite side.

I'll compare with the original once I get the starter bolts figured out and the bell housing disconnected later on today.
 

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So the clutch disc is not symmetrical? I did my Exedy clutch years ago and it's holding up fine after 50,000km+. Pretty sure I didn't pay attention to which side of the clutch disc faces where as I was pretty sure it was symmetrical.
 
So the clutch disc is not symmetrical? I did my Exedy clutch years ago and it's holding up fine after 50,000km+. Pretty sure I didn't pay attention to which side of the clutch disc faces where as I was pretty sure it was symmetrical.

The Aisin clutch disc I have is definitely not symmetric.
The asbestos that grabs appears to be symmetric, but not the metal parts.

The springs visibly stick out on the first more than on the other.
The spline visibly sticks out on the second side more than the first.
 
Yes exactly. The hub portion is what's important. 99% of cars the larger part normally goes transmission side. Not on the 3.4. I found this

e1ed75a9ad0d34248502bb4b601efdcb.jpg


Basically, if it's backwards, then the pressure plate's fingers can't flex enough to fully disengage the clutch and you won't be able to put it in gear with engine running. Or it'll grind.




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YThe hub portion is what's important. 99% of cars the larger part normally goes transmission side. Not on the 3.4. I found this.

Thanks for finding that as I'm going to insert the clutch into the transmission today where I'm working on the 2.7L 3RZ engine.

This thread confirms what you say that the 3.4L engine is the oddball where that thread explains it this way.

The Toyota 3.4L V6 engine has the disc springs toward the engine flywheel.
The Toyota 2.7L I4 engine has the disc springs toward the transmission pressure plate.

I almost certainly will put the clutch in today, as I only have the rear mount bolts left to unscrew.

I will make a run to the parts store. Do I need locktite? What color?
 
Glad to save someone else the trouble that I learned the hard way.

I use blue locktite on the flywheel and pressure plate bolts. Haven't had an issue


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