I don't do videos. However, you hit the nail why so many people don't work on vehicles in the rust belts.


I guess I cant count on you guys to help me pull an Engine? Bummer.

Even changing a front fender could involve tap, dies and wielding.

I am trying to remember that lots of our members are in rust free environments and others are in rust full environments.

So I put if in the rust belt in my posts so all users can realize plan accordingly to the condition of the rig.

What gets us is the PO neglect. In my particular case, it's a hobby. So the forum benefits from seeing what I have done on how to repair chassis and frames. The other members including your videos have just about everything covered now.


Good group of people on this forum and we can even tease each other. That's one of the things I love about it...








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I was wondering how this thread got this long so I took a peek. I wrenched for decades with no torque wrenches. I learned on tractors, and except for head bolts and mower blades, I don't think they ever had torque values on the old iron.

Things changed when they started making stuff out of aluminum. The margin for error is much smaller, and 'too tight' is a real concern. So anything threaded into aluminum gets the torque wrench. I just don't trust my cast-iron trained strength. I also like it for anything secured with a lot of bolts, like valve covers, diff 3rds, oil pans, lug bolts, etc. Uniform tightening fights leaks and misalignment. Uniform is more important than just getting inside of too tight and too loose and hard to do by hand. Also gaskets, like the man said above.

Otherwise, steel on steel, no torquy for me.

Lots of us wrenched that way. Just tighted and moved on.

I mostly still do wrench this way. I guess everyone just has their way of doing it.

I agree with the aluminum changes and other factors I do torque my aluminum rims. Unless I am using a torque stick and air impact.

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