[cl4Rk]

Got the fat pats 1” body lift installed, removed the factory bumpers in preparation for the coastal off road and Nguyen works, relocated the washer resi, and started on the locking rear axle housing

[Bad Luck]

I've been looking at body lifts lately. What size did you go with? Any problems or tips for install?

[cl4Rk]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

I've been looking at body lifts lately. What size did you go with? Any problems or tips for install?

I went with Fat Pats 1” body lift.

I used a ton of Energy Suspension Super Lube (super sticky silicone paste) and re-lubricated all my poly bushings.

Everything went well, except I’m not fully sure about the rearmost mounts. It seems like the bolts are too long. I’m not sure. I’m still investigating it and I’ll post my findings if/when I figure it out.

Tips: it’s easiest with at least one other set of hands and eyes. Get maybe a 4’ length of 4x4 to place along the pinch weld as you jack up the body. Do one complete side at a time (we did driver side then passenger side).

Don’t forget to loosen your trans shifter linkage and steering joint before jacking up. The hardest part was the steering spacer, but it’s not too bad.

[octanejunkie]

Looks good!

Good time to replace your cabin filter if you haven't yet

PN 62940-35010

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[brillo_76]

@RandyBobandy has a 1 inch body lift on his. I am not sure what brand. It does make it alot easier to work on certain things. I am not sure if I put one on anything or not. I don't have plans at this time for one. Nothing wrong with them though..





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[cl4Rk]

Friendly reminder (to myself) that ANY new symptom has a root cause. Guaranteed. Just a matter of finding it and deciding if it’s important.

I’ve had a squeaky creaky sound during suspension cycles for a few months now. I just assumed it was a poly bushing getting squeaky due to lube washing away.

Well, look what I found today!!!!



That’s right!! A rear upper link with NO BOLT on the axle side. Oh my!!

I’ll replace with a new factory bolt and torque to spec, but in the mean time (about 20 miles and a week) I’ll make do with this extra body mount bolt:

[cl4Rk]

Bumper progress

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by cl4Rk

Bumper progress

Looks like a tight fit...
Looking forward to your final welds

[cl4Rk]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Looks like a tight fit...
You gonna paint it or nah?

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I’m going to paint it Topaz Metallic to match my flares.

[TW44LR]

Originally Posted by cl4Rk

Friendly reminder (to myself) that ANY new symptom has a root cause. Guaranteed. Just a matter of finding it and deciding if it’s important.

I’ve had a squeaky creaky sound during suspension cycles for a few months now. I just assumed it was a poly bushing getting squeaky due to lube washing away.

Well, look what I found today!!!!



That’s right!! A rear upper link with NO BOLT on the axle side. Oh my!!

I’ll replace with a new factory bolt and torque to spec, but in the mean time (about 20 miles and a week) I’ll make do with this extra body mount bolt:

Your rear upper link bolt missing is funny because I’m in the exact same scenario although it’s frame-side. Had a weird noise for months, noticed it Sunday afternoon haha


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[brillo_76]

Originally Posted by TW44LR

Your rear upper link bolt missing is funny because I’m in the exact same scenario although it’s frame-side. Had a weird noise for months, noticed it Sunday afternoon haha


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I had those oem upper snap controls snap off. Not just one but 2 pasenfer side snapped. So I changed it and about 6 months later my driver side snapped. I went to aftermarket upper control arms because they are pipe tubes which are larger diameter and stronger then the oem ones.



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[cl4Rk]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Looks like a tight fit...
Looking forward to your final welds

Almost there. Still needs the external welds smoothed out

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by brillo_76

I had those oem upper snap controls snap off. Not just one but 2 pasenfer side snapped. So I changed it and about 6 months later my driver side snapped. I went to aftermarket upper control arms because they are pipe tubes which are larger diameter and stronger then the oem ones.



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The upper arms need to twist and flex, like torsion bars, which is why they have huge bushings and skinny, solid shafts...

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[brillo_76]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

The upper arms need to twist and flex, like torsion bars, which is why they have huge bushings and skinny, solid shafts...

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The pipe ones still flex. They at least don't snap when I sm driving down the road. As that's not a fun experience. After 2 of them doing it. I really don't have much faith OEM ones. I am seeing if I snap anymore off before I get rid of them on other 4 runners. I only have one eith replaced upper control arms

Keep in mind, this is all on road driving too....:/

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[cl4Rk]

OME 883s, SPC upper control arms, Cam eliminator tabs, 285/75/16s, and the front bumper powder coated and mounted up.



Axle housing for the locker retrofit after getting PC’d as well…