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Old 02-11-2021, 03:08 PM #1
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Ol' Ruby build thread

Well, maybe itís more of a maintenance and repair thread...

Ol' Ruby

Rubes for short.

2000 Toyota 4Runner SR-5 3.4L V6 4WD AT Sunfire Red Pearl

(with Topaz Metallic large fender flares)

208k miles.

My plan is to keep things fairly stock but get the truck into excellent condition: I'll prefer to restore rather than modify when I can, for the most part.

I don't do serious wheeling, and I don't even drive that much. But I do mountain bike, and while I like being capable of camping trips and getting off the beaten path, I'm not going to rock crawl or desert race or anything like that.

Here's a snapshot of where things are, and where they're headed...

Previous owner (owned from 2011-2020, work below done in 2018-2020):
- stock everything except 265/75/r16 highway tires.
- new radiator
- new valve cover gaskets
- new timing belt
- new battery
- new water pump
- new rear driveshaft
- new catalytic converter (original was stolen!)
- recent oil change
- brakes
- a few other things

I bought the truck December 2020. Came with original sticker and documents, along with about 11 years of service records.

So far in 2021:
- new shift lock release button cover
- new Denso starter
- new Denso MAF sensor
- new spark plugs
- new coil boots
- new pcv valve
- new fuel filter
- cleaned throttle bottle/IAC
- new gas cap
- removed the Limited-style Topaz Metallic running boards (hanging on to these just in case)
- fixed various vacuum leaks (one that threw a P0171 and another that prevented my 4WD from engaging)
- repaired the power steering idle-up switch (PN 9098011428 and 8299812440)
- intake silencer removal (Airaid AIR-510-934 M.I.T., kept original tube/silencer untouched)
- greased all zerk fittings (Lucas X-TRA Heavy Duty grease 10301 NLGI #2)
- vacuum hose replacement (Silicone Intakes VAC000308 blue thick-walled hoses)
- replaced missing factory skids
- Matching OEM wheel in stock spare location

In progress:
- full frame swap (!)
- POR-15 everywhere
- Bilstein 5100s all around
- OME 880/906
- Eimkeith panhard correction kit
- DuroBumps 5.25Ē bump stops
- B&M 70264 SuperCooler external ATF cooler ran in series
- Magnefine 3/8" Magnetic Inline filter for ATF
- Spidertrax 1.25" hub-centric spacers
- ARB breather extensions (front diff, trans, tcase, rear diff)
- Moog K100127 greasable caster/camber adjusting kit
- Some body work for rust repair (rear passenger dog leg)
- New OEM Steering gear assembly (PN 44250-35042)
- New OEM outer tie rods (PN Left 4504739215, Right 4504639335)
- New OEM rear upper control arms (2x PN 4871035040)
- New OEM cam seals (2x PN 9031138051, 2x PN 1118862010)
- Whiteline W53377A black front lower control arm bushings
- Whiteline W63378 black rear trailing arm bushings
- Whiteline W83374 panhard bar bushings
- Prothane 18-1115 red front sway bar bushings
- Prothane 18-1116 red rear sway bar bushings
- Moog K90681 greasable front sway bar end links (in rear, for extra length)
- Energy Suspension 8.4111R body mount bushings (instead of 8.4110R because the donor frame is '99, so #2 body mounts are different)
- Energy Suspension 8.10103R rack & pinion bushings
- replace rear chrome bumper sections (keeping factory look)
- braided stainless steel brake lines
- full fluids drain & fill (MaxLife ATF, GTX High Mileage oil, Lucas gear oil & brake fluid)
- Replaced front diff fill plug with Lexus PN 9034118060
- Replaced front diff drain plug with Lexus PN 9034124016
- Marlin Crawler MCTM-523 Heavy Duty Shifter Seat (Blue) for transfer case j-shifter

Later this year:
- 265/75/r16 all-terrains (BFG KO2, DuraTrac, or Wildpeaks) in 5-tire rotation
- new OEM lower ball joints (everyone has said they look great, but I've read the stories...)
- replace seals around rear hatch and driver's door
- replace passenger headlight (small chip in glass)
- replace passenger signal light (small crack in plastic)
- A bunch of little cosmetic stuff
- fix (or bypass) broken power antenna
- ABS on-the-fly on/off switch (building on others' work, I'm planning a one-switch solution)
- Spiker Engineering hood struts

Maybe down the road...
- CB radio dash install with rear-mount antenna
- Magnaflow Overland catback exhaust (my muffler's not in great shape)
- brake upgrade
- amber fog lights in factory fog light location
- rock sliders
- ARB air locker in rear with engine bay mounted air compressor
- skid plates
- restored seats
- paint correction
- color-matched bed-liner on rocker panels
Attached Images
Ol' Ruby build thread-img_3518-jpg  Ol' Ruby build thread-img_3520-jpg 
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2000 Toyota 4Runner SR-5 3.4L V6 4WD AT Sunfire Red Pearl "Ol' Ruby" - build thread

Last edited by cl4Rk; 06-10-2021 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 02-11-2021, 03:44 PM #2
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some more photos
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Ol' Ruby build thread-img_3024-jpg  Ol' Ruby build thread-img_3133-jpg  Ol' Ruby build thread-img_3136-jpg  Ol' Ruby build thread-img_3134-jpg  Ol' Ruby build thread-img_3135-jpg 
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Old 02-11-2021, 03:57 PM #3
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I should add that this forum has been essential to my learning about our trucks and gaining the confidence to fix things myself. I've never really worked on vehicles before getting this truck, and I'm learning so much and really enjoying myself. So, thanks everyone!!
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Old 02-11-2021, 08:19 PM #4
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Dope! Looks so clean inside and out. Is the frame pretty bad?
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Old 02-11-2021, 08:53 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicknasty View Post
Dope! Looks so clean inside and out. Is the frame pretty bad?
Thanks!

The frame is actually not too bad, other than one area of penetrating rust. It's on the inboard side of the passenger rear lower trailing arm mount weld seam, which is a common problem area on these trucks.

EDIT: After starting the frame swap, it's clear there were other problem areas, including the rear shock upper mount goblets around the mounting bolt holes.


I read a lot of threads here, including @TheDurk 's Frame Rot!! Is this the end?, when deciding between repair vs swap. In the end, I decided to go with swap since there might be other problem spots that are hard to see, and it's also possible that the frame is rotting from the inside out, and I wouldn't know it until things started failing. I'd like to get out ahead of this rust rather than let it get worse.

I'll get more photos of the frame up soon when I start the frame swap thread. In the meantime, here's a photo of the problem spot, and of the donor frame that will get treated with POR-15 before the swap:
Attached Images
Ol' Ruby build thread-img_2938-jpg  Ol' Ruby build thread-img_3691-jpg 
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Last edited by cl4Rk; 04-27-2021 at 02:14 PM.
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Old 02-12-2021, 03:13 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cl4Rk View Post
Thanks!

The frame is actually not too bad, other than one area of penetrating rust. It's on the inboard side of the passenger rear lower trailing arm mount weld seam, which is a common problem area on these trucks.

I read a lot of threads here, including @TheDurk 's Frame Rot!! Is this the end?, when deciding between repair vs swap. In the end, I decided to go with swap since there might be other problem spots that are hard to see, and it's also possible that the frame is rotting from the inside out, and I wouldn't know it until things started failing. I'd like to get out ahead of this rust rather than let it get worse.

I'll get more photos of the frame up soon when I start the frame swap thread. In the meantime, here's a photo of the problem spot, and of the donor frame that will get treated with POR-15 before the swap:

Awesome man stoked to see where this goes keep the pics coming
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Old 03-12-2021, 09:53 AM #7
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Nice find, color looks great
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Old 03-29-2021, 09:07 PM #8
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Ol' Ruby build thread

Time for a new steering rack...


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Last edited by cl4Rk; 03-29-2021 at 09:12 PM.
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Old 04-23-2021, 03:47 PM #9
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Ol' Ruby build thread

Some photos of things in progress... lots of internal coating and POR-15 on the new to me frame.

In photo showing the back of engine and transmission, you can see the oil from the leaky cam seals.

Also, enlarged the drainage holes in the rear shock upper mount "goblet".
Attached Images
Ol' Ruby build thread-img_0607-jpg  Ol' Ruby build thread-img_0608-jpg  Ol' Ruby build thread-img_0606-jpg  Ol' Ruby build thread-img_0610-jpg  Ol' Ruby build thread-img_0609-jpg 
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Old 04-23-2021, 04:56 PM #10
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subbed! looking forward to more pix. great progress. are you renting the garage stall and lift, or is it something friends or family own? and that is one floppy ITRE, oy.

oh, and, how large did you go with the 'goblet' weep holes? did you add more of them also, or just enlarge?
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Old 04-23-2021, 05:17 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photoleif View Post
subbed! looking forward to more pix. great progress. are you renting the garage stall and lift, or is it something friends or family own? and that is one floppy ITRE, oy.

oh, and, how large did you go with the 'goblet' weep holes? did you add more of them also, or just enlarge?
Thanks!

I'm paying. I know @TheDurk (and others too I think) have done a backyard frame swap. I don't have the space, skill, patience, etc, for that!

Enlarged only, didn't add new holes. The original drain holes look like they're just for water, so now they're big enough to let some sand/dirt/small gravel drain as well. I'd say double in size at most. I'll probably slather that bolt up there with a bunch of grease like others have suggested as well.
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Old 04-23-2021, 07:59 PM #12
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Major respect to anybody that goes through the hassle of a frame swap, lots of dedication.
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Old 04-23-2021, 09:45 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cl4Rk View Post
Thanks!

I'm paying. I know @TheDurk (and others too I think) have done a backyard frame swap. I don't have the space, skill, patience, etc, for that!

Enlarged only, didn't add new holes. The original drain holes look like they're just for water, so now they're big enough to let some sand/dirt/small gravel drain as well. I'd say double in size at most. I'll probably slather that bolt up there with a bunch of grease like others have suggested as well.
@repo suggested not only slathering the bolt with antiseize, but also smartly added to the suggestion that i put a long vacuum cap on top of each. i used the caps i had, plus filled them with antiseize, but having all that direct access would be soooo nice.
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Old 04-24-2021, 03:00 AM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photoleif View Post
@repo suggested not only slathering the bolt with antiseize, but also smartly added to the suggestion that i put a long vacuum cap on top of each. i used the caps i had, plus filled them with antiseize, but having all that direct access would be soooo nice.
I crawled underneath and looked at them to confirm this actually works and isn't bro science and those threads and hex sockets are completely pristine after 3 winters! I used anti-seize because that's what was handy but silicone grease or white lithium (I think is safe for rubber? I dunno) should work. The point was to repel/displace any water that might get inside the cap, but they were still on extremely tight. I used 5/16" vacuum caps, there's no UV exposure or anything down there so works fine. I thought they were longer but they are just normal size. Hopefully saves a headache down the line.

Great build BTW, imagine how good it will feel having a totally clean frame like that. I feel weird polluting a build thread with my own pics so let me know if you want me to move them.

Right side:





Left side to make sure:





Caps:

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Old 04-24-2021, 08:41 AM #15
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Major respect to anybody that goes through the hassle of a frame swap, lots of dedication.

Thanks Devbot. Iíve been learning a ton! I should add that Iím outsourcing the lionís share of the real heavy lifting here. The mechanic who runs this shop has done multiple frame swaps, including a Tacoma and a Wrangler. He also does a lot of frame and body work for a local classic car restoration shop.
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