Brought my 4Runner to my local mechanic, I bought a set of Bilstein shocks to have installed - replacing the originals after 285K miles. Mechanic calls me and says I have a problem, he can’t mount the back driver side shock - there is nowhere to mount it, it’s completely rotted away. What can be done here, except for a complete frame swap(unrealistic)?
My engine is running as good as it ever has, shocks were the only thing this thing needed, he mentioned that Toyota sells some type of bracket but the cost and labor will be about $5K - I can’t afford this. Any solutions would be greatly appreciated- thinking a welder could come up with something? I’m stuck and this is stressing the h3ll out of me….

Yeah the upper area where the rear shocks mount can be an issue especially given your located in an area where the winter roads are treated with salt.
Lots of others have had to deal with this so several threads about it within this forum.
I would ask around for a local fabricator that isn’t afraid to do some creative welding. The part you need is still available from Toyota and not that costly.
The real cost is the labor to install it but no way should it be anywhere close to $5K, I suspect way less than half that amount.
Others who have faced this problem will chime in.
Also, check other areas of your frame as you may have other issues related to rust. Take close look at lower rear control arm mounting points, etc.

A simple google search yielded the following hits all on this forum.

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Buy a new welding machine and about $5 worth of steel. Less than 5 grand haha. The skill is always handy anyways. You need to get under there and make sure your frame isn't rusting that bad before some jackass says 10 grand. Anyways it's a simple fix and a crucial one. Drill a hole a run a couple beads. 5 grand wtf

First you need to crawl underneath and poke/hammer your frame to make sure there aren't any other frame areas that have rusted out. Pay extra attention to the rear lower control arm mounts and the inside part of the frame on the passenger side by the exhaust.

If that all checks out then read through this thread: Rear Shock Mount Rot It lists some part numbers, but make sure that they are the correct part number for your vehicle. If you can't weld then I suggest asking around for places that do frame repair or offroad fabrication.

Toyota sells these to be welded on. Driver side 5130235040 , passenger side 5130235030
They are around $140 a piece

Outboard Shock Relocation (OSR)






– OPT OFF ROAD You could just get this and outboard them though that's a lot of welding and you'd need new shocks so more money. You wouldn't have to worry about those old shock mounts anymore though and it's a lot easier to remove shocks.

I can't believe I'm still doing with this-i got the one side done for $1600 now the other side needs it. This is a bigger problem since the gas tank needs to be pulled. You see all these shows where guys restore 1932 Cars pulled out of junk yards but try repairing a 25 year old truck and it's a nitemare.

I wonder if I could rig something cheap, but safe I'm not going off-road in this or driving far, it's just for running around town and driving short distances. I have 290K miles and the engine sounds and performs as good as the day I bought it.

I repaired /rebuilt 3 3rd gen frames. It takes time.

3 options with rusty frames:

1) Sale it or junk the rig
2) Replace the frame
3) Fix the Bad spots in the frame.


I mostly Choose Option 3.. But I do all the work myself.

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Sounds like you got fooled by the magic of television.
They make it look easy because contrary to the song and dance they put on, they're very experienced fabricators in an extremely well equipped shop with several employees to help, including producers and editors who will selectively cut out all the headaches they encounter.
Reality TV isn't reality. If it was as easy as they made it look, everyone and their mother would do it.

Hey I noticed you were in New Jersey. Back in July I had Garden State Auto Repair replace both of my rusted out rear upper shock mounts. They cut the old ones out and welded in the new OEM replacements that I bought and brought to them. The gas tank did not have to be removed either. They did a really good job and it only took them two days to do it. They also undercoated the rear of the 4runner with Woolwax so they should be protected for another 22+ years.

They charged $1800+ tax for all of it. Very pleased with the work.

I out boarded my shock mounts a month or so ago.



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I welded with both 110 and 240. It's the higher amperage that helps. The higher amps and weld controllers that help with rusty metal that can't easily be cleaned because of location or nothing left.

For example, some brackets are heavily curved and contours that can't easily be replicated or replaced. So you litterly have to mold and melt what's left with the new weld to make your piece.


My old generic 110v really didn't have enough output amps to weld 1/8 plate into good metal to repair things effectively.

So I went to a Lincoln mp210, which has newer models out now that do all my welding needs. I also only use Lincoln wire, which for me works the best.

Most folks suggest using Flux core wire wire on rusty oxidized metal, too. You can, and it will work. However, I only weld it with shield gas now because I get better metal penitration with it. Along with a lot less welding splatter.

This is just me, though. I also welded probably 4 or 6 frames now with various methods. All dell different angles with even welding upside down.

My preferred method is still internal frame plating. However, those safety caps do work well, provided you get the inside of the frame cleaned out and rust treated before sealing in.



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I did learn my lesson years ago about using generic 120v migs. I happened upon my Miller at the local bar. The bartender had it and said it was broke and gave it to me. I gave him 90 for it after I fixed it and got the cart for it. I use gas and have the big bottle. The small bottle only lasts 45 minutes of welding.


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Isn't it night and day generic vs brand name with heavy duty cycles...

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