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Old 02-01-2024, 10:52 AM #16
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Interesting.. I haven't seen green brake fluid. :-) By any chance, are all your brake-lines changed to copper nickel lines? Maybe whatever brake fluid was used reacted with the copper lines. Its definitely have a green tint to it.
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Old 02-01-2024, 11:10 AM #17
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I was talking about the pool store info, I'm well aware of the difference between DOT3 and DOT4
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Old 02-01-2024, 05:43 PM #18
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Welp, got the test strips today and according to them some copper is present but it's still way good. The camera picks up the color difference a little better but to the eye it was the exact same color as the 30ppm marking. Considering this and also how it's still much clearer than my previous bleeds, and the fluid is less than a year old, I wonder if my suspicions are right about old fluid still being trapped in the loop somewhere and is causing the rest to dirty up? I would still suspect the ABS box but I'm not sure if fluid passes through it continuously or if it bypasses it somehow and only mixes once the pump is tripped by the wheel speed sensors
I wish there was a way to bench test the pump, cause I can never get the damn thing to go off when I want to - only when I don't and I'm least expecting it
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Old 02-01-2024, 10:26 PM #19
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The brake system is a closed. So its possible some fluid is staying in the system. Lots of people swear by gravity bleeding. I know both the late model and the abs in the earlier models are a nightmare to get the air out of. I wish there was simple way to activate the abs motors so that when your bleeding you get it all the first time.
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
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Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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Old 02-02-2024, 12:58 AM #20
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Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
The brake system is a closed. So its possible some fluid is staying in the system. Lots of people swear by gravity bleeding. I know both the late model and the abs in the earlier models are a nightmare to get the air out of. I wish there was simple way to activate the abs motors so that when your bleeding you get it all the first time.
I assume there has to be a way to send voltage to it and get it to pump, because high dollar diagnostic tools like Autel and Snap-On can activate it remotely on the good majority of cars. I've never seen it done to ours in particular, but if it is true for us too then there has to be some way to do it without spending $5k-10k
At the same time, if there was a way you'd think someone would've found it by now...
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Old 02-02-2024, 10:30 AM #21
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The easiest way I found is gravel road and it will under certain conditions..:-)
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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Old 02-02-2024, 05:46 PM #22
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I assume there has to be a way to send voltage to it and get it to pump, because high dollar diagnostic tools like Autel and Snap-On can activate it remotely on the good majority of cars. I've never seen it done to ours in particular, but if it is true for us too then there has to be some way to do it without spending $5k-10k
At the same time, if there was a way you'd think someone would've found it by now...
The FSM procedure is a special SST that plugs directly into the ABS module... Nothing via OBD-II or the Toyota diagnostic connector under the hood.

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