VLed Triton V3 Amber Rear Turn Signal Installation

Mail Call.


First Remove the tail light. It is held in by two 10mm nuts. Bring it inside where it's warm. Then remove the turn signal bulb/holder. Save this for future installations.

Now fold the foam down gently. Remember this is really what keeps moisture out not the bulb holders, so treat it nicely.


Now take some pliers and pull these connectors straight out. If they fall off no problem. And don't even worry about which wire is which. Keep these with the bulb and bulb holder for future installation.


Now reroute your wires to their new hole. They won't be happy about it but oh well. Make sure you don't dislodge the connectors surrounding the brake light.


Now install three 3mm screws into the Triton LED WITHOUT the collar. They should be 120 degrees apart. So screw one in, skip a space, screw one in, skip a space and then screw one in.


Now install the rubber gasket. It should be flush with the light assembly. (Screwdriver is to show how it's on since it blends in with body)


So both the passenger and driver side bulb holder small insert hole will need to be enlarged for the 3mm screw to fit through. I used a utility knife. This is the stock picture.


And this is the modded picture. Trim a little and try it. Rinse and Repeat. Do not make a super oversized hole so future retrofits can fit easily.


Now on MINE, the passenger side foam pole caused interference on the LED body. This has to be trimmed. If the LED does not turn as easy as the stock build during installation you need to examine what is causing the problem. (NOTE: The driver side had a smaller post and required no modding)


Now it clears the post and can be locked in. Lock it in and leave it! The more you lock/unlock it the more the potential is to wear down plastic.


Now lets examine the harness that came with the LED kit. I opted for the resistor harness but forgot to order the resistors lol. But due to my impatience I learned with my 2003 V8 SE doesn't need them. That is with stock bulbs in front. I will see what happens when I do the front signals in LEDs too.


This is my setup with out resistors.


Ok back to the tail light. Your method of splicing two wires is up to you. I use environmental splices for aircraft. Whichever your method, install the splices on the tail light side first. These wires are a lot firmer and you really don't want to be messing with them a lot to prevent them from jiggling loose at the brake light junction.


Next back to our assembly. Grab the connector that is supposed to go in the bulb socket.


Now gently unfold the wires and bring each side together like so.


Back at the truck. Connect the harness to the LED. This is what it should look like. Install this as is into the truck and then connect the main power connector to the assembly.


Now connect the harness to the splices. DO NOT CRIMP THE SPLICE YET> Test the lights. If you have nothing, remember LEDS are polarity sensitive, so simply connect the splices to the opposite bulb end. It should work. IF it hyper flashes, sorry for your luck you need resistors. If it works (or works after swapping polarity) then mark the correct wire to the correct connection so you can finish the job in the not so tight space.


This is the final splice product.


Now you probably have a loop from the LED to the power wires. Disconnect at quick connect closest to bulb as to save wear on our factory wiring. The picture below shows how the harness was before final assembly. Install tail light and feed wires through respective holes.


Now you have a bright turn signal. Congratulations.

Wow. I wanted to get this product for my rear turn signals but had no idea it would involved splicing. I never looked into it (I have a lot of other mods I want to finish before my "box of mods" grows even more). Lots of pictures and details for the install, looks great!

Yeah I didn't either. Maybe I didn't research enough or whatever. No way around it though. You'll find switchback wiring help all over but not plain Jane amber. But hey don't be put off by this minor step, it really doesn't even qualify as splicing. It's on that fine line of Jerry rigging. I just wanted to provide the most simplistic way of installing these. You also do minimum (and reversible) damage to your tail light and your Triton set. Also please note in the "Set up without resistors picture" there are three wires at the quick connect side. The bulb adapter brings that number back to 2 (2 prongs) and there are 2 wires on the tail light - simple.

Yup, doesn't look complicated. Thanks for sharing. This is TONS better than getting cheapsh*t on ebay. I have the V3 switchbacks which was a simple install. You would think a "simpler" product would be more simple, but apparently it's not.

:thumb:

Also they come with no instructions lol. But they are bright. WORTH IT. Note: they can be adjusted in and out, I found that all the way recessed was perfect.

I don't know if it is the case, but the plug on the body side for these tail lights look like the same part used in the 2010-present 4Runners. If that's the cause and the wiring is the same, you may be able to make this cleaner by buying the pig tail from the 2014 and up and modifying it with VLED plugs. I did this with my 2012, and the plug looks the same as your 4th gen.

Cool man thanks, if anyone confirms hopefully they post. Year and a half later still works perfect! So I purchased the same for the front (amber not yellow) and I got hyper flash. Bought the gold color resistor block sold at local car place and burned up the resistor so had to purchase the VLED plug and play resistor and nohyper flash - so if you do front and back VLED get at least one of those resistor for each side (2 total) not each light (4), and save time and money by just purchasing it when you buy the LEDs weather you do all four or just a set.

Jagerzel said:

Cool man thanks, if anyone confirms hopefully they post. Year and a half later still works perfect! So I purchased the same for the front (amber not yellow) and I got hyper flash. Bought the gold color resistor block sold at local car place and burned up the resistor so had to purchase the VLED plug and play resistor and nohyper flash - so if you do front and back VLED get at least one of those resistor for each side (2 total) not each light (4), and save time and money by just purchasing it when you buy the LEDs weather you do all four or just a set.

Click to expand...

I did full VLED installation front and back with their resistors that plug in the controller. No issues so far, except one of the switch back controllers stopped working, probably just a random dud. I think I'll be able to post a write up on the work I did to tail lights on my 2012 soon. I can also add photos of the 2012's body side female socket. Might help identify if they are similar to the 4th gens'.

Here is my write up for using the 2014 and up harness to make a clean install. If the connections match, you may be able to use the same method.