04 V8 Doug Thorley install with custom crossover pipe by GT Peace Automotive

[sprygsxr]

04 V8 Doug Thorley install with custom crossover pipe w/ pro tune

It took me a while to commit to this job, but once you realize how terrible of a job Toyota did with their crossover section of the exhaust pipe (and a terrible exhaust leak) I finally decided to start gathering parts. The headers took about 3 months to come in, but they looked beautiful. During that time I got together two cats, a resonator, a y-pipe and some flanges. The truck is being worked on as we speak but here are a few pics of the workmanship going on here at GT Peace in Chantilly, VA.

 

[AllVol87]

Looks good! Keep us posted on how the truck feels after the install. [emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ZiaMan]

$$$

Can you provide a price break out by parts, labor, etc?

Thanks!

 

[sprygsxr]

Can you provide a price break out by parts, labor, etc?

Thanks!

Headers were $700
Burtman Industries
Magnaflow cats (x2) and 'y-pipe' ~$200
Burtman Industries
3 Summit racing v-band flanges ~$100
Vibrand 12" resonator ~$50

Labor for me was right at $1500. However, last year i put on a set of Pace Setter (biggest waste of money possible) manifolds which cracked in like 6 different places. At that time I replaced all the manifold studs and nuts so I didnt have to buy them again and everything came off like butter. Had the exhaust system not been touched in 13 years it would have been a little bit more, plus some hardware.
Auto Repair in Chantilly, VA | GT Peace Auto

 

[sprygsxr]

I have a hundred miles or so after install and the truck feels amazing. Where the mid-high range was a bit lacking before it now pulls through every gear. She is going on the dyno this saturday at 11 so I will post some real numbers as soon as I see them. I am very curious to see what it puts down.

 

[derekdevasia]

I have a hundred miles or so after install and the truck feels amazing. Where the mid-high range was a bit lacking before it now pulls through every gear. She is going on the dyno this saturday at 11 so I will post some real numbers as soon as I see them. I am very curious to see what it puts down.

You are doing the lords work my friend

 

[blackoutt]

Do you have any sound clips?

I have a sound that I'm told is just what tubular headers sound like, almost like ticking/air rushing, it's pretty annoying when I drive next to a wall or something with the window down. The other thing I'm thinking is it might be a bottle neck from the 2.5" headers into the stock y pipe on mine. I don't feel or see any leaks anywhere. Aside from the engine bay noise, the exhaust note and added power are nice.

 

[sprygsxr]

Do you have any sound clips?

I have a sound that I'm told is just what tubular headers sound like, almost like ticking/air rushing, it's pretty annoying when I drive next to a wall or something with the window down. The other thing I'm thinking is it might be a bottle neck from the 2.5" headers into the stock y pipe on mine. I don't feel or see any leaks anywhere. Aside from the engine bay noise, the exhaust note and added power are nice.

From inside the truck its really not that loud or worthy of a sound clip but I will get one for you. What I will do is video this beast on the dyno so you can really hear it under load from outside of the truck.

I dont hear any type of ticking or tinning noise from the headers themselves. I thought I heard something similar on those Pace Setter manifolds I had on there because the I knew they used the cheapest/thinnest metal possible, but what I was really hearing was them already starting to crack and leak. These engines/headers are in there so tight it really is hard to see any leaks, but if I had to guess that is what your experiencing. Did you weld cats directly to the headers or use another flange to make them serviceable without removing the headers?

 

[Marfy]

Kinda have to listen to it loud, but here's my clip.

https://clyp.it/x0xg3ble

 

[blackoutt]

From inside the truck its really not that loud or worthy of a sound clip but I will get one for you. What I will do is video this beast on the dyno so you can really hear it under load from outside of the truck.

I dont hear any type of ticking or tinning noise from the headers themselves. I thought I heard something similar on those Pace Setter manifolds I had on there because the I knew they used the cheapest/thinnest metal possible, but what I was really hearing was them already starting to crack and leak. These engines/headers are in there so tight it really is hard to see any leaks, but if I had to guess that is what your experiencing. Did you weld cats directly to the headers or use another flange to make them serviceable without removing the headers?

No upper cat, just a straight 2.5" pipe welded on with a 2 bolt flange to attach to the stock y pipe. Now you've got me thinking I have leaks somewhere. I'll have to make a video, it sure sounds like an exhaust leak from the header but doesn't change at all when they warm up. Maybe it's those thick gaskets that were supplied with my headers not sealing worth a crap. Maybe I'll just pull them back off and check for issues. I did keep my stock headers to bolt back on if needed just need new gaskets.

Another thought, I didn't get a big increase in fuel economy like others have, might be an exhaust leak causing that. The internet says to do a "brake line stethoscope" so I'll try that first.

 

[sprygsxr]

No upper cat, just a straight 2.5" pipe welded on with a 2 bolt flange to attach to the stock y pipe. Now you've got me thinking I have leaks somewhere. I'll have to make a video, it sure sounds like an exhaust leak from the header but doesn't change at all when they warm up. Maybe it's those thick gaskets that were supplied with my headers not sealing worth a crap. Maybe I'll just pull them back off and check for issues. I did keep my stock headers to bolt back on if needed just need new gaskets.

Doesnt change when it warms up, but is it worse under load? When mine were leaking it was terrible at low speeds under load like going through a neighborhood or on side roads where that tick would just bounce off of cars or jersey walls and annoy the crap out of me. You dont have cats so you might have more of that tinny sound than me. Hard to say what it is without hearing it i guess.

 

[blackoutt]

Doesnt change when it warms up, but is it worse under load? When mine were leaking it was terrible at low speeds under load like going through a neighborhood or on side roads where that tick would just bounce off of cars or jersey walls and annoy the crap out of me. You dont have cats so you might have more of that tinny sound than me. Hard to say what it is without hearing it i guess.

Yes it's easiest to hear low engine speeds low loads and annoying in neighborhoods by cars and barriers exactly as you describe. My stock manifolds were quiet and now my DT's are the loud ones! WTF. A bunch of muscle car guys all say that's what cheap thin tubular headers sound like but these seemed decent quality. Video and further inspection on the to do list tonight...

 

[sprygsxr]

Yes it's easiest to hear low engine speeds low loads and annoying in neighborhoods by cars and barriers exactly as you describe. My stock manifolds were quiet and now my DT's are the loud ones! WTF. A bunch of muscle car guys all say that's what cheap thin tubular headers sound like but these seemed decent quality. Video and further inspection on the to do list tonight...

These DT are not cheap material. They may not be the best, but way better quality than the junk Pace Setter that I had on there.

 

[blackoutt]

Pressurized exhaust and sprayed soapy water everywhere. Only leaks I found were passenger side primary o2 sensor a little and crappy welds way back near the muffler. I think this sound may be inherent to the header design? You can hear the air rush sound after it revs and engine speed is dropping back down.

https://youtu.be/-fa_ZCq3rEE

 

[BOFFROAD]

How difficult is it to get the old untouched manifolds and and DT in? I've heard you need to loosen the engine mounts and pull it up a bit.

 

[sprygsxr]

Pressurized exhaust and sprayed soapy water everywhere. Only leaks I found were passenger side primary o2 sensor a little and crappy welds way back near the muffler. I think this sound may be inherent to the header design? You can hear the air rush sound after it revs and engine speed is dropping back down.

You found something at the primary 02 weld? Since you dont have cats it makes a little more sense, but still not ideal.

 

[sprygsxr]

How difficult is it to get the old untouched manifolds and and DT in? I've heard you need to loosen the engine mounts and pull it up a bit.

I believe you are correct, but I have not done this job myself.

 

[V8Man]

Sounds silly but you can actually see some header leaks at night in the dark. Rev the engine and let off and look for the light caused by burning fuel in the headers.

 

[blackoutt]

You found something at the primary 02 weld? Since you dont have cats it makes a little more sense, but still not ideal.

I should clarify, this was the O2 sensor gasket, it's a thin crush washer type seal. I backed the sensor out, cleaned everything and retorqued, no more leak. I tried to take more videos on my way to work this morning but it sounds pretty normal on camera. Gotta be in my head. And my lack of fuel economy from my foot. I'm over it except for still wanting a larger Ypipe than stock. URD couldn't answer my questions with any intelligence so they are out, anyone other options or custom only?

 

[blackoutt]

How difficult is it to get the old untouched manifolds and and DT in? I've heard you need to loosen the engine mounts and pull it up a bit.

Some people say they've done it without taking the engine mounts out, which I did get the old off without touching engine mounts (with 1" body lift), but if you install all the studs into the heads first and then hang the new headers onto them you'll definitely have to tilt the engine up to slide the headers in past the upper coil bucket. It sounds scary but it's really just take out two bolts while the mount still supports the engine and jack it up 2" slide header on and get nuts started, set jack back down, reinstall two engine mount bolts, repeat for other side. There's no opportunity to drop the engine this way, but don't try prove me wrong lol.