Thanks for posting pic. Sexy I must say.
Call to order soon, 3 left now as of today! It's going to be a while after these go.
717-319-2100 call/text 24/7
The long tubes and y pipe combos still on time to ship out?
Thanks for posting pic. Sexy I must say.
Call to order soon, 3 left now as of today! It's going to be a while after these go.
717-319-2100 call/text 24/7
The long tubes and y pipe combos still on time to ship out?
Installed the y pipe tonight. Fitment is great, easy bolt on and everything lined right up with plenty of clearance everywhere. Side by side comparison shows major improvement in diameter, true 2-1/4" instead of the stock 1-3/4" right at the inlets! Butt dyno says placebo power? I can't really tell I've been driving my 5.7 tundra powerhouse too much lately. The sound increase is a subtle change but pleasant, I posted a short video on my Instagram but will take some more for YouTube later. Now for my couple of minor complaints, because I'm running 3 stacked O2 sensor spacers to avoid catalyst efficiency fault codes due to not having primary cats the new O2 sensor position doesn't leave much room between the ends of the sensor where the wire comes out and the body, luckily I have a 1" body lift too. I could fix this by getting an O2 simulator. The passenger side O2 wire was too short with my setup so I had to remove the female connector from its bracket. Next, not sure why the drivers side exhaust hanger is bent straight down, yeah I get this keeps it from sliding off but I fear it'll catch stuff offroad. I'll most likely bend it up or cut it off. And lastly, I think this will fit with a transfer case skid WITH some slight raising of the exhaust hangers but with old worn out hangers I think it would be very close. I don't run a rear skid so no worry for me. Onto the pics!
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I think the hanger might sit just outside of the width covered by a skid and I'm not saying they'll rub a skid just that it looks tight. Maybe transfer skids sit lower than I expect? I don't have one. I can look at my buddies gx skid and tell you for sure I just wanted to highlight a concern over a question I've been asked a couple times to confirm.Hmmm. Your pics and comment worry me. I literally bought this to have more clearance between my skid and Y pipe. It looks pretty low and that hanger bent down looks like it for sure hit the skid. I told Jason a few times why I wanted it and he said it will work and be good and I trust him, but I guess I’ll find out! Was supposed to arrive today but apparently fedex lost my package so I’ll have to wait.
This picture doesn't truly capture how bad it is but I don't want to cut it up in case I move or sell to an emissions state. There's two pipes crushed in there! I think there's a pic back in this thread somewhere. I was really surprised at how small the stock pipes just before the cats were, I though everything was 2-1/4" stock but it was way smaller! In case I didn't mention earlier I'm very happy with this y pipe! Thanks again Jason B and DT!Thanks for posting install pics. If you have them, please post some pics of the crushed part of the stock WHY Pipe... By far the worst restriction in the entire system.
Now for the cons. The OEM pipe has the tube stick out the flange about 1/4” and the gasket slips on and centers it. These ones don’t have that for obvious reasons, the pipe is bigger. However, the issue is that the OD of the flange gasket groove is about 3”. The oem gasket is 2.5”. The new Y pipe is 2.25 and the oem is about 2”. The causes the gasket to cover 1/4” of the new Y pipe, the biggest issue though is you can’t center it when installing because it’s smaller than the grove. It sits low and is a huge hassle to get the flange sealed. Mine leaked 2 times after start up and I kept having to loosen and try to hope the gasket centered with a pick to keep it up and center so there is gasket to seal the top. If this makes sense? Anyway, long story short the stock gasket does NOT really work like advertised. I am going to order a FelPro 61086 with an ID of 2.5 and OD of 3”. Hopefully that works better. The oem donut gasket fits perfect for the rear flange.
Edit: never mind the felpro gasket. Apparently it’s a super common issue with DT headers and Y pipe. URD has custom gaskets they ship with there stuff but they are $10 each with $10 shipping. I found Remflex sells custom gaskets for this too. PN 7021. $24 shipped.
Installed the y pipe tonight. Fitment is great, easy bolt on and everything lined right up with plenty of clearance everywhere. Side by side comparison shows major improvement in diameter, true 2-1/4" instead of the stock 1-3/4" right at the inlets!
Did you measure the outlet too by chance?
Ordered Wednesday, over 3000 shipping miles later, here on Tuesday.
And you/we got it done in a 11 months from your original post!! Thank you everyone for the emails and interest. Social Media does have some positives. [MENTION=117708]blackoutt[/MENTION] Thank You for the install and comparison pics! Most of all Thank You Doug Thorley!!Very cool photo! Glad it didn't take 50 years
Call to order!
717-319-2100 call/text 24/7
And you/we got it done in a 11 months from your original post!! Thank you everyone for the emails and interest. Social Media does have some positives. [MENTION=117708]blackoutt[/MENTION] Thank You for the install and comparison pics! Most of all Thank You Doug Thorley!!
[MENTION=9]Jason B[/MENTION] makin it happen!
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Happy to help, it's been a long road and you guys helped make all this happen too!
Long vs short some say the long tubes are better for high-end power while the short tubes have more low-end response but it depends on what article you read, some actually say the opposite. The tube diameter seems to make a larger difference in performance.
The biggest difference, specific to our application, is that the DT short tube headers don't have a flange welded to them, which means you can add cats to them but you have to make a jig and get them welded in the correct position to match up to the factory piping. These new long tubes travel all the way to the flanges, deleting the cats, so these are purely 'bolt on'. No need to pay a welder or spend a bunch of time getting it set up.
Dyno numbers between the two might be interesting but they'll both be way better than stock.