Does anyone have a shopping list put together for the headgasket replacement on a V6? I've read a few threads, but can't seem to find all the parts laid out.

Things I have:
Valve grind kit - 04112-31720
Double Hex tools - CTA Tools 9295

Things I'm not sure on:
New head bolts (x16) - 90910-02162 (replaced by 90910-A2006) - are these required?
Chains / tensioners - 230k on the truck, I'm thinking about just reusing
Anything else?

Thanks
-Rob

I think I read somewhere the head bolts might be torque to yield, but I'm not sure on that. If not, its such a pain to get in there, might as well replace them anyway. All the money you're saving by doing it yourself could justify replacing them and a few other parts

I was following this 4.0 rebuild thread and someone had the tensioner parts listed out if you decide to replace those. Looks like post 21 and 22. If not, these guys sound like they could probably confirm your list for the head parts.

Rebuidling 4.0

edit: once you get a complete list, would you be able to update this thread with the finalized version? I got a small amount of potassium in my last oil analysis, so my time may be near

Thanks, I'll take a look at that thread.

I'm normally a "while the engine's out" kinda guy, if it can be replaced, do it while you can. I don't want to do that on this project, simply because I'll be selling the 4Runner as soon as it's done. I want to fix the headgaskets (correctly) before I sell the truck, but the nice-to-haves add up quickly, and I'll never see the benefit of them. I've already purchased the truck's replacement (06 V8 w/110k miles)

I'll update the thread when I get a finalized list together.

-Rob

Here's the parts list from when I did it. Definitely get new head bolts. Other items of note:

The CTA 9295 tool is hard to get fully into the head bolts. Clean the old head bolts really well before trying to use it, but I had to use a hammer to tap it into the new bolts too. If you do it this way you'll hear a distinct 'pop' when it's fully seated. It's seems like a good way to strip a head bolt, which I actually did. Don't let this happen, it sucks. I've heard of people using a tri-square instead, you might want to get both just in case. I think the only link I could find to one was through Snapon I think it was $30+.

The Toyota Sealer on row 10 is for installing the timing cover and you'll put a small line on top of the block where the cover, block and cylinder head meet. If you have the FSM from on here you should see this step in their description of the job. When you install the timing cover you use this to seal the edge of the cover and two tear drop shapes that are for the water pump I think. You'll see the old sealer when you pull the timing cover off, it feels like rubber when dry. Some people use RTV for this, but the Toyota stuff is worth the $20 I paid for it at my local dealer.

I also replaced the front oil seal (behind the crank bolt) while I had the timing cover off. I think I bought this from my local deal, but it's much cheaper online. This wasn't leaking, but I figured I was already there so I might as well do it.

I didn't end up replacing my timing set so I don't know if the Cloyes set I thought about using is any good. I did break one of the long chain guides and bought a replacement from Rock Auto that has worked fine for the last 15,000 miles.

I used a roloc and yellow bristle disc in a drill to clean the block mating surface after I head the heads off. It works really well and isn't strong enough to make the mating surface uneven.

I also went ahead and replaced the water pump, thermostat, spark plugs, fan clutch,and PCV valve since that hadn't been done yet.

I'm going to assume you know what everything else is for, but ask me if you don't. Hope this helps.

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