This guide should help you if you are attempting to replace the following items:

- Secondary air injection pump (SAIP) (Part# 17610-0C030)
- SAIP control valve assembly (Part# W0133-2005011 <--- Parts Geek couldn't find Toyota PN)
- Knock sensors (both banks) (Part# 89615-20090)
- Starter 1.4kw non/cold spec (Part# 28100-50090-84)
-or- 2.0kw cold spec (Part# 28100-50100, 28100-50101)
- SAIP check valves (Part# 25720-50020)

Tools I used:

- Deep and shallow 10mm 12mm 14mm and 17mm sockets
- 10mm and 12mm Open-end box-end wrenches
- 1/4" drive ratchet, several lengths of extensions
- 3/8" drive ratchet, several lengths of extensions, a couple universal joints
- Good light
- a ladder. Not a joke, this thing is tall.

Other parts I bought:

- Intake plenum gasket set (Part# Fel-Pro MS96672)
- Fuel Injector seal kit (Part# Mahale MS96672)
- Coolant bypass pipe O-Ring (Part# 96761-24019)
- Coolant bypass gasket (Part# C31701 <-- internet search didn't help. Try auto parts store)
- Coolant

If you are going to utilize this guide, I ask that you read through it in its entirety before starting. Take your time. There are a lot of small bolts that can fall into very inconvenient places and get lost so take care.

Here is a video on YouTube that cice mentioned below as being very close to what I detail here.

How to Replace the Secondary Air Injection Pump and Check Valves on a 2002-2009 Lexus GX470 - YouTube

The main difference is that he removes the check valves from the coolant pipe (roughly 9:10 - 10:00 shows what he did). I don't think that this would work if you are replacing the starter as the coolant pipe is still going to be in the way. This video still gives a solid tutorial on how to complete 90% of the job and is worth a watch if you are doing this job.

---Guide Starts here---


1

- Start by disconnecting the negative battery terminal.
- Remove 2 @ 10mm nuts from plastic cover.
- Loosen 1@ 10mm clamp holding intake to air box.
- Move front small vacuum hose clamp and disconnect hose from front resonator box.
- Move mid large vacuum hose clamp and disconnect hose from intake.
- Remove back vacuum hose from rear intake resonator.

2

- Cut two zip ties holding wire loom to Resonator.

3

- Loosen 10mm intake clamp.
- Move 3 mid-sized hose clamps and disconnect hose from manifold.
- Remove intake.

4

- Disconnect 4 @ 10mm bolts from brackets on top of intake manifold (red).
- Disconnect 1 @ 12mm bolt from bracket on top of intake manifold (green).

5

- Disconnect 3 @ 10MM Bolts and 1 @ 10mm Nut from throttle body.
- Disconnect electrical connector.
- Loosen two coolant hose clamps and disconnect hoses (Arrows). There will be a small amount of coolant in these lines. I plugged with an appropriately sized bolt. (Skip to the very end if you want to know why this was a good idea. Or just plug the hoses if you believe me).

6

- Remove 5 @ 10mm bolts. The one at the top of this picture is horizontally oriented and secures the fuel line above the fuel rail. We remove this to enable the fuel line to flex during the fuel rail removal.
- Remove 2 @ 12mm nuts holding the fuel rail to the intake manifold.
- Loosen but do not remove 17mm fuel banjo bolt. This bolt will have 2 washers associated with it, one on either side of the line it is securing to the fuel rail.
- Loosen hose clamp indicated by the green circle. Remove the thingy indicated by the green arrow. Lift up, then pull to the front of the car. Take care not to damage the O-ring that interfaces with the fuel rail.
- Disconnect 4 Injector plugs from the fuel injectors.

7

- Remove 2 @ 12MM nuts holding the fuel rail to the manifold.
- Remove the horizontally oriented 10mm Bolt (represented by the small red oval) that secures the fuel line (represented by the thick red line) to the back of the fuel rail.
- Remove 10mm bolt (represented by the green circle) and remove the bracket. I needed to do this in order to remove the fuel rail more easily. I replaced this once the fuel rail was removed.
- Disconnect the far side of the fuel connector (represented by the green line, connector not shown in picture).
- Disconnect 4 Injector plugs.
- Loosen 17mm fuel banjo bolt. With both banjo bolts lose you can carefully remove the hard line with the bolts and washers. You should have 2 banjo bolts and 4 washers.

8

- To remove left Fuel rail, gently pull up on the rail to un-seat the injectors, then pull up slightly on the fuel line indicated in green. I believe I had to lift the rail up, rotate 90 degrees counterclockwise, then pull forward and out.
- Injectors should have an O-Ring at the fuel rail mating side and a large round gasket/O-ring on the manifold side.

9

- To remove the right Fuel rail, I had to remove the bracket (red arrow) and disconnect the plug (red circle).
- Gently pull up on the rail to unseat the injectors.
- In order to extricate the rail, you will need to guide the attached fuel line through the mess of wires as you are pulling the rail out. Be patient, you don’t want to kink this line.
- Once the rail is out, now is a good time to look at the condition of your fuel injector seals and probably just replace them. I found that most of the black gaskets were actually still in the manifold. I am replacing all of them as I seem to have had a small fuel seepage problem on both sides.

10

- On to the left side manifold attachments. Remove 2 @ 12mm nuts (front and rear) and 3 @12 mm bolts.

11

- Unplug sensor plug and disconnect vacuum hose. Vacuum hose is part of the manifold and disconnecting the sensor plug will reduce strain on cabling.

12

- Moving over to the right-side manifold attachments. Remove 2 @ 12mm nuts (front and rear) and 3 @12 mm bolts.

13

- At the back of the manifold, on the right side, remove the 10mm bolt holding an electrical connector plate to the back of the manifold.
- Disconnect the black connector (Green Arrows) and separate it from the bracket it was attached to.
- Disconnect the fuel line connector from the fuel line.
- With this you can carefully Remove the manifold. On the right side of the manifold, near the back, you may need to route an electrical cable.

14

- Now we are under the manifold and can begin seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.

Note: The item labeled with a blue #1 is the SAIP. It can fail sending plastic crap through the SAIP Control assemble (Blue#2) and into the SAIP check valves. This is the dreaded SAIP system that the SlyFox mod pre-emptively deals with.

- Unplug 5 Electrical connectors. Be very careful with them. The detent on 3 of mine broke. Think very carefully about how you are going to make sure they do not come apart if this happens to you.
- Remove 3 @ 10mm Bolts & 2 @ 12mm bolts
- Loosen Hose clamp (Green arrow). This hose is a hard material that wants to crack and split.
- Remove secondary air pump, then remove diverter (blue numbers).

15

- Remove 12mm Bolt holding coolant pipe to rear coolant bypass.
- Remove 4 @ 12mm bolts holding down air pump mount.
- If you are just replacing knock sensors, this is as far as you will need to go.
- Remove the Coolant bypass pipe by pulling firmly toward the firewall. There should be an O-ring on the pipe. You will want to replace this O-ring (more on this topic later. I am just letting you know that YOU WILL WANT TO REPLACE THIS O-RING).
- EDIT: I noticed that I did not mention the 12mm nut (very top left of this picture) holding the plastic wire container/loom down because mine was broken. You will want to remove this nut in order to have room to flex the entire thing out of the way when removing the coolant bypass/check valve assembly.

16

- Now, I know that I said that we could see light at the end of the tunnel. That was for people who were only replacing the sensors. For the rest of us poor sots, it was a Train. Choo-Chooo!
- 2 of the next 4 bolts 10mm will be a challenge. In this picture I have numbered the bolts in red. I will attempt to describe how I removed them.
- 1 is by far the most difficult and required a second set of hands to remove. I used the below tool setup to accomplish the job. I had my helper at the wheel well guiding the long half of the tool in while I was up top using my hands to guide it to the bolt. Once the socket was on the bolt, I had to hold the tool from the inside while the second person used the ratchet.
- 2 was the easiest of the bolt and can be removed easily.
- 3 and 4 were removed using 1/4' drive and extensions. They were a little tricky, but not as rough as 1.
- Now you can remove the 4 @ 12mm bolts holding the coolant bypass to the block (green).

17

18

- To remove this god forsaken piece of engineering (secondary air injection pump check valves) was basically just a careful wrestling match between the two pipes on either side of it, the wire harness mess above it, and the %$#@^& wire restraint they decided to attach TO THE BACK OF IT. Don’t ask me how I was able to get the damn thing off… I don’t remember, but I was able to disconnect it without damaging it. I believe it was a small flathead and a couple picks.

19

- This is the dreaded secondary air pump check valve. Now you know how to remove it. I believe each of the literal pieces of trash pictured above can be purchased from a dealer for around 100 bucks each.
- Note the metal "gaskets" on either end where the 4 bolts from hell were located. Make sure you have them.
- I see no reason to replace the metal "gaskets". I believe if you like living on the wild side, you COULD reuse the coolant gaskets assuming you didn’t mess them up during the removal process. I am not a Chad who takes unnecessary risks, so I replaced them.

20

- At this point the goal is in sight. There are 2 @14 mm bolts and 1 @ (I think…) 12mm to remove to free the starter.

21

- Pull the starter back and rotate it to gain access to the connector, and the (I think) 12mm bolt.
- You may now shout at the skies your triumph and enjoy a cold beverage of your choice in celebration. The hardest part is done.
- Installation is simply all of these steps in reverse.

*** Important rant about a $5 part incoming***

- One more note. Remember this Pipe with the O-ring?
22


- REPLACE THE O-RING. When you get to the point where you are ready to shove that pipe back in place; take some of your favorite oil, grease, or assembly lube and thinly coat the o-ring. When you slide it back in, think gentle and slow.

***Rant incoming***
Now, you really don’t have a very good way to test if this seal is good, but I would hate to get everything back together only to find that this O-ring is not seated properly, thus necessitating a second teardown to this point. Just so you are aware, I had to do this teardown 2 more times. So, you don’t have to! How nice of me. The first time I reassembled everything I used an O-Ring that was VERY close to the same size. Got everything back together only to find that the O-ring hadn't seated on the bottom. Coolant on floor. Tore off the intake manifold and decided to try the old O-ring as it looked ok… a little loose but intact, no scratches or cracks. Hey, it fit didn’t it? WRONG! It was too loose and therefore pissed coolant all over the floor for my trouble. Tore off the intake manifold AGAIN (at this point I am REALLY good at it. I think I had the whole thing off in about 25 minutes), ran to the nearest Toyota dealership, and bought Part # 96761-24019, and replaced the O-ring. Here is a tip: if you plugged the two smaller coolant lines mentioned at the top of this guide then you can squeeze the top radiator hose to test your seal. If you don’t hear a bunch of air, you are good to go.

***Rant Complete***

Once you have put everything back together, start the car, grab a flashlight, and watch for coolant or fuel leaks. Let it run a while and look under the car. If you have no leaks, then you have completed the Job.

When I ran the car the first time it threw a code telling me bank 2 was lean. After a reset and several trips out and about the code had not come back.

Good luck and I hope this guide is helpful to someone.

Nice write-up. Makes you realize how really complex our vehicles are, it's amazing to me that they run virtually trouble free for as long as they do! Glad I have an '03 V8 and don't have to worry with that SAIP stuff.

Great Writeup, thanks for posting @Jcmeadows82 !!!

Dang, this is a hell of a write up.

Is there a reason you replaced the SAIP stuff rather than just doing the Sly Fox bypass?

The starter motor is the only "congrats, your stranded!" preventative maintenance I haven't done on mine. I've been tempted to do it, but man is it a royal pain to get to...

So, for this job I only replaced the starter and knock sensors. The knock sensors were bad and I thought that since I was already in there I'd do the starter as well. I have had the SlyFox mod installed for a while.

To get to the starter out you have to remove all of the SAIP parts. Usually, I am a "If I am going to remove something this deep into the job, I am going to replace it..." kind of guy, however when I total up the cost:

SAIP $600
SAIP check valves $200
SAIP Control valve assembly $200

I decided that I am not going to replace any parts of the system I have bypassed. IF your system fails, replacing the components is very doable.

If you are going to replace the starter, you are doing all of what I had to do here unfortunately.

I have done this job twice. The first time the air pump, starter were done. The second the knock sensors and air pump hoses with clamps were done (knock sensor failed). Job was not too bad.

To the original poster, you do not need an OEM toyota pump. GM and toyota shared some air pumps and the difference is the plug. That's it. And it's about 450.00 cheaper. All you have to do is change the small toyota harness and plug over to the GM pump. IIRC it's a screw and one wire plug to change over.

Here's the link to the one I bought:
Amazon.com: GM Genuine Parts 215-414 Secondary Air Injection Pump : Automotive

This is great info to have here. I try to include Toyota part numbers for clarity and cross referencing. Do you have the part numbers for the GM pump? I think everyone likes options.

Info added to post.

I'll add my list to the mix:

Part Description Toyota P/N
intake gasket (qty 2) 1717150030
air pump assy 176100C010
passenger valve cover gasket 1121350031
driver's valve cover 1121450011
QTY 2! Knock sensor 8961520090
fuel pul damp bot washer 9043012026
fuel pul damp star gask 2323241081
PCV Valve 1220450030
FEL-PRO VS 50592 R Valve Cover Gasket Set (includes spark plug seals)
water bypass gasket (qty 2) 16341-50020
EGR pass side vacuum hose 17340-50030
secondary air pump injection hose 17341-50180
hose off air switching valve 17342-50180
EGR pipe gasket (qty 4) 1737750010
replacement 3.5mm vacuum hose 90999-92003
water outlet pipe o-ring 96761-24019

This video also looks pretty helpful How to Replace the Secondary Air Injection Pump and Check Valves on a 2002-2009 Lexus GX470 - YouTube (not near as nice as your writeup though!) Do you think it is possible to get the starter out and a new one in without removing the coolant crossover piece? Thanks for posting this!

You can't. The coolant tube runs over and partially covers the starter bolts.

Just watched this entire video. It looks very close to what I describe above. The main difference is that he removes the check valves from the coolant pipe (roughly 9:10 - 10:00 shows what he did) and there was no way I was going to be able to do that. He does mention that if you can't get the check valves out the way he shows, that you would need to remove the cross pipe and replace the gaskets, which is what I did. Definitely worth a shot if you think you can get them out that way. I will add the link to the top of the guide. More info is always better! Thank you for this.

Thanks guys! When do you recommend replacing the starter? Mine is the original with 219k miles and I'm wondering how much I'm living on borrowed time...

While I cannot speak with authority on the subject, here are my thoughts. OEM Starters are made by Denso, so solid stuff there. The starters on most vehicles are under the car subject to the elements, and therefore take a hit on longevity. Not so with this particular model. So, living on borrowed time? Hard to say... In your place with those miles, I would probably make my decision dependent on how bad I would be screwed if I couldn't drive my car for a week. I enjoy working on my cars and don't mind replacing stuff (within some sort of reason... I would not be happy if I needed to replace a transfer case, or transmission) on a 15 year old vehicle that I fully plan on keeping until the wheels fall off.

There are my thoughts.