Hi everyone, 2008 4R Sport in Western, NY, but with only about 110,000 miles and no garage. Pic attached - I've done a forum search and significant rear liftgate rust is INCREDIBLY common, and very, very expensive to try to resolve. Unfortunately, I finally have a full hole, and the rust spot behind the license plate is so significant, that if I took the license plate off, I have a feeling I'd have a big problem putting it back on. That rust spot is probably 6" in diameter.

Here's my question, how much damage is going to be done due to water getting in the completely unsealed hole? Will it damage electrical components and snowball into major other electrical issues? I live in NY and we do not have a garage, so it's exposed to the elements 24/7? I'm not in a position to replace the whole hatch, and junk yard rear hatches are $1,000+.

Lastly, if the answer is put some sort of tape over it, is there a certain tape to use?

Thanks!

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There are drains in the lift gate that will allow most all the water to drain out...IF they're not clogged up, some water will always get into the hatch passed the windows weather stripping that's why there are drains. with you having rust there's most likely debris in the bottom of the hatch that will clogged the drains be sure to clean out all debris and may sure the drains are not clogged.

That being said short of replacing/repairing the damage, I would use aluminum HVAC duct tape, it is metal with a peel off backing and sticks very well to metal, clean the area very well of loose debris/rust and make sure it's dry, then apply several layers of the metal tape, one layer will seal it very well but several layers will make it stronger so it won't puncture easily, it's very thin tape so the reason for several layers.

Don't confuse this tape with regular "duct tape" which is not metal and will eventually dry out, deteriorate and fall off, the metal tape will stay there forever or until the metal it's tuck too rusts away, water will not make it come loose as long as everything was clean and dry when you applied the tape.

aluminum ac duct tape

Greetings from Victor, NY - Ive had to replace a few hatches - mostly rusted out around the window

Unfortunately, my experience is once these start to rust - with the thin metal layers - its really tough to stop. I think going to a body shop may buy you a few years, but still would come back

I would get rid of anything crumbling and try to create a clean edge best you can. liberally apply some rust converter. I would use some sort of weather proof barrier - like the HVAC tape as mentioned

I believe the license plate holes are basically just nuts welded to the inside of the liftgate. You could come up with a creative solution for the license plate - use like a larger nylon screw. you could use decal adhesive / double sided tape

How To Put a License Plate On The Front Of a Car With No Holes | PrivateAuto

The lower hole you could again sand best you can, apply rust converter. Apply bondo - touch up paint and that may buy you a few more years out of it looking like it doesnt have a rust hole

Good luck

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the feedback and ideas.
@AuSeeker - Do you mean tape like this? Lowes Tape - I was specifically looking for black since it'd stick out less than HVAC silver lol. I don't imagine this tape takes paint well...? I swear all the drains at the bottom of my hatch are plugged purposefully with rubber plugs that look OEM. I'll have to check tomorrow in the daylight and then be sure there are holes, and they're not plugged with rust.

@Syr4RinNC - Small world! I'm on Rt. 21 in Shortsville/Canandaigua, so if you've ever driven down to Keuka lake, or south off 90 at the Shortsville/Pal-Mac exit, you've probably passed my house lol. Out of curiosity, when you replaced the hatches, did you replace the whole thing with a junk yard one, only the metal frame itself, or some other approach? The full replacements from a junk yard in decent condition (albeit with some ugly bumper stickers) seem to be $1,400+ on ebay. Non-matching paint, dinged up ones are $800+. I will admit though, I haven't called around to local yards, I'm skeptical the ones in local yards would be much better. I looked on toyotaparts for the OEM non-painted frame and that was $850+ with no paint and obviously a more significant job transferring all other parts over (glass, weather stripping, etc.). I also fear if I crack that sucker open, how many parts inside SHOULD be replaced.

I primarily use this vehicle for driving to work in the winter during poor road conditions, plowing my driveway with a snowsport personal plow, and for the occasional summer Lowes project or camping trip. AC is shot as well, but I just replaced 2/3rds of the exhaust. So, it's more of a recreational vehicle that I won't dump thousands into for "optional" repairs. I'm leaning towards a quick clean + cover the hole with tape if we get a nice 50-60 degree day, then try to do more, and examine properly the monster behind the license plate this summer. I've never done body work, but there's no time like the present to learn!

I guess you can use that tape, but it doesn't appear to be metal, the tape I suggested is real aluminum, will not deteriorate and can be painted.

The drain holes do have plastic inserts in them, which when not clogged will let water drain out but they keep bugs from entering.

@gbaker - The metal HVAC tape @AuSeeker suggested is golden to have around. I've used it for its actual purposes (when installing a new dryer), to seal seams when adding sound deadener in the truck, to secure the resistors for my LED turn signals, and even for the back of my custom key fob. It's very versatile to say the least. Also, this thread and my post in it may be useful:

Tailgate rust repair (DEF4Runner's full thread & my main post in it)

Hope things work out for you. This is another of the 4th Gen's unfortunate rust issues.

Yea both times I replaced the entire hatch. I was able to get them for about $500 ~ 10 and 3 years ago respectively.

Just keep an eye out at local junk yards, facebook, craiglist and ebay for local ones.

I have not been down to Keuka lake - But Im always on the look out for other 4r on the road. We're over by Victor HS

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market is another good resource

good luck

On an otherwise rust free 2008 Urban Runner in silver (that I now need to sell but this forum wants me to reply to others first) I had a rust spot just like that.
I couldn't let it advance and had my collision shop strip and refinish the rear hatch. That was 3 years or more ago and brand new today.

Dan

2008 Urban Runner
2023 TRD Sport (Son's)
2017 Lexus LS460 short wheelbase, no Turbo, no air suspension
2015 RAV4 Limited (Daughter)

Ah thanks, I wasn't searching for aluminum, pretty sure I've got it now: Amazon.com

And that's great to know, pop the plugs out, clean out, re-install plugs, makes sense.

Great, I also learned something here, I've used this type of tape for many, many years for all kinds of stuff....BUT I've never knew you could get it in a color other than the aluminum color!!

That being said I would install the tape on the inside, several layers because it's very thin so you have a thicker layer and then you can do one layer on the outside for the color, the sticky side of that tape you found is still aluminum color.

Remember to clean the surfaces very well so you get maximum adhesion, also it sticks instantly so make sure you get it lined up and start from one end of the tape, only peel the backing off a little at a time as you apply it, once you start/stick it at one end then press the tape in position as you peel the backing out, once you do a piece or two you get the hang of applying it, on a flat surface use something to squeegee it firmly to the surface, I use a plastic putty knife or something similar.