For all the 5th gen guys wanting to lift their KDSS equipped Runners
- Thread starter BowJanked
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jrandom
New member
Nice share. Sub'd 
The front was a piece of cake even with removing the front sway, minding you keep the piston supported, it is the most important thing. A ratchet strap and align tool, that was the simplest part of the whole process IMO.
Still good info, thanks for posting. I think I will give it a try when its time for rebuild.
The front was a piece of cake even with removing the front sway, minding you keep the piston supported, it is the most important thing. A ratchet strap and align tool, that was the simplest part of the whole process IMO.
Still good info, thanks for posting. I think I will give it a try when its time for rebuild.
The Waco Kid
New member
This is why I love this forum.
Sub'd!
Thanks!
Sub'd!
Thanks!
sandcrawler
Senior Member
or you could just disconnect the swaybars.
BowJanked
New member
There is already tons of threads on how to do it with the removal of sway bars this is the one showing how to do it without the removal.
jrandom
New member
I guess it just depends on what is easier. Disconnecting the swaybars or disconnecting the tie rods and ABS wiring. You going to have to disconnect something
sandcrawler
Senior Member
1) you don't have to disconnect your tie rodsI guess it just depends on what is easier. Disconnecting the swaybars or disconnecting the tie rods and ABS wiring. You going to have to disconnect something
2) you should disconnect (free) your ABS lines to reduce strain on them anyway
3) if you're shelling out $$$ for KING, you should really spend $ on a new set of UCAs, in which case you'll be doing #2 anyway
::cheers:
i hear ya, but it's kind of an answer to a question no one asked.
disconnecting the rears, in particular, is pretty trivial.
jrandom
New member
LOL I suspect you quoted me for everyone elses benefit? 
You have to disconnect something whichever technique you use. (the king method instructs you to disconnect the tie rod)
I had zero issues removing the swaybar.
I still haven't gotten my height upgrade. I planned on doing it in four stages, fronts, rears, UCA and springs, second set of wheels. I pay cash and certainly didn't want to pay interest on $5500+ worth of suspension upgrades. I already hate paying the stupid low interest rate I have on the truck itself.
You have to disconnect something whichever technique you use.
(the king method instructs you to disconnect the tie rod) I had zero issues removing the swaybar.
I still haven't gotten my height upgrade. I planned on doing it in four stages, fronts, rears, UCA and springs, second set of wheels. I pay cash and certainly didn't want to pay interest on $5500+ worth of suspension upgrades. I already hate paying the stupid low interest rate I have on the truck itself.
Jetboy
New member
The TRE disconnect is what 30 seconds? Why not get it out of the way? Makes life a lot easier when swapping in coilovers.
As for KDSS - there's a better way. Ratchet strap around the piston end. Hook to frame in front and behind. No jacks to try to align or any of that. The sway bar ends go on and off pretty easily this way.
I think it took maybe an hour to swap my coilovers to foxs- and most of the time was trying to get the remote reservoir brackets to fit right. Then another 30-40 minutes to dial in the preload to my desired lift amount.
As for KDSS - there's a better way. Ratchet strap around the piston end. Hook to frame in front and behind. No jacks to try to align or any of that. The sway bar ends go on and off pretty easily this way.
I think it took maybe an hour to swap my coilovers to foxs- and most of the time was trying to get the remote reservoir brackets to fit right. Then another 30-40 minutes to dial in the preload to my desired lift amount.
sandcrawler
Senior Member
you obviously can disconnect the tie rods too, but it isn't required.LOL I suspect you quoted me for everyone elses benefit?
You have to disconnect something whichever technique you use.
I had zero issues removing the swaybar.
I still haven't gotten my height upgrade. I planned on doing it in four stages, fronts, rears, UCA and springs, second set of wheels. I pay cash and certainly didn't want to pay interest on $5500+ worth of suspension upgrades. I already hate paying the stupid low interest rate I have on the truck itself.
:cheers:
Diesel_Dog
New member
Thanks for this. Is there a link so that I can download for future reference?
BowJanked
New member
I have the PDF pm me your email I can send it to you and anyone else that wants it cheers
BowJanked
New member
Jetboy
New member
This is one of those tasks that can be pretty frustrating for a novice mechanic. If some of use who've done a few of these know of a better way - why work harder?
My guess is that many on this forum may not know how to release a TRE.
<iframe width="693" height="390" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jAYPBr4zmhI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
3wbdriver
New member
Then link it in this thread as additional info. I have seen more people confused about how to do this mod than almost anything else that can be done to the 4R. And someone posted a well illustrated step by step guide. PUT IT TO USE!
sandcrawler
Senior Member
you've certainly got me pegged: 2000+ posts of pure troll. it's why i'm here, really.
is this when i'm supposed to use the green text? am i doing this right?
Diesel_Dog
New member
Done thanks.
Lukesaysrelax
New member
Could have used this thread over the weekend. Took me 6 hours to finish my lift front and back. Granted I was working with one good hand. The FIRST nut I went to loosen my wrench slips and a rip my finger nail off 
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