Nitto Ridge Grapplers...long term reviews and impressions?

2012sr5

New member
I have read the Nitto Ridge Grappler? thread, and I'm looking for some long term reviews. For those of you who have been running these for a year or so since they came out, how are you liking them now? Anyone have over 10k miles on them? How are they holding up after all those miles?

I'm strongly considering the stock size (265/70/r17) on my stock SR5 wheels. Although, 265 E vs 285 C seems to not be a very big difference, in terms of mass, and I did just install a modest 2/1.5 lift... Hmmm....

Thanks in advance!
 
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Installed my RG's in early march and now have about 15k on them. I have the 285/70/17 LR-E version. So far they remain very quiet and smooth on the road. No problems in winter driving conditions with snow or ice. They also seem to do pretty good offroad. We've been to Moab and all over the San Juan Mountains and they performed great as well as around here on Mt. Taylor and the Zuni Mountains. Over all those miles, there is very little tread wear and the tires still look new. Overall, I've been pretty impressed by these tires so I'm considering getting a set for my Tundra.
 
Love them

I have just over 10K on my 265/70's E rated. They have been amazing. Still very quiet, not quite as silky as when I first got them but definitely not loud. They just give off a nice low rumble that isn't that noticeable from the cab. They are wearing very well. Just starting to get past the first wear step that was around 2mm from new diameter. I had Terra grapplers before that were way more worn at 10K.

They have been great on and off road. Haven't had them in snow yet but I'm looking forward to it.
 
About 7k on mine. They are a bit louder, can hear them easily, rotated at 5k. Tread blocks cut/chip a lot easier than my previous Cooper ATP's. I have 285/70 C loads.
 
I've got about 8000 on my 285/75 C load. 3300 was in one trip from Denver to Niagara Falls. I love them so far. Much quieter than the Duratracs I had before. Although, wayyyy heavier. (11 lbs per tire) I've rotated once since installation. They don't wander as much on the highway as other AT tires I've had. I've got about 500 off road miles on and they have done great. Aired down to 20# with a full load no problem at all. I got some end of the season miles in last year on snow and slush in the mountains and they were great although not quite as good as they Duratracs. Hit heavy rain a couple times on my road trip and traction was no issue. So far I'd get them again
 
just hit 20k on mine since installing in February in the 265/70/17 E rated size paired with Fn F(X) pro wheels. Loved them since the day I got them. As you can tell the runner is my Daily (but do wheel 3-4 times a week) and they're still excellent on and off road. I Really didn't start seeing significant signs of wear and tear until maybe 3k miles back. But realistically I don't think ill be needing to replace these anytime soon, still tons of tread depth. (Ill measure my tread depth tomorrow for you)

I however want to replace them soon with some 285's before winter time along with new coils, ucas, gobi rack, sliders and about ever other mod I click on.
 

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Aside from this today they're great. Not sure if once these are done with I will still with or move to the trail grapplers.
 

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So I've had both the Toyo Open Country RT's (285/70-17) and now Nitto Ridge Grapplers (305/70-17) for about 7000+ miles.

Nitto's are quieter.

Toyo's were not great in snow/ice, but they aren't supposed to be...and well, no tire is great on ice. Nitto's...haven't been through a CO winter with them yet.

Both were good on the rocky trails here in CO. I have definitely done more off roading with the Nittos, and like someone above says, they do get nicked and chunked out a bit. Yes, all tires will...but by comparison, these seem to chunk a little more easily than the Toyo's.

They are both heavy. My Nitto's are e-rated and I've run them at 15 PSI and slightly below with no issues. Usually I do between 18-20 for normal stuff and they are great. Both have felt balanced. I usually check for lost wheel weights and haven't found any.

The Toyo's were run on stock Trail rims and the Nitto's are on SCS Ray10's. Honestly I liked both sets, but the Nitto's are what I will run again. I've run Duratracs on another truck, and i like both of these better. Better offroad, stronger sidewalls...but yes, neither are 3 peak rated like the Duratracs if that matters to you and where you live.
 
So I've had both the Toyo Open Country RT's (285/70-17) and now Nitto Ridge Grapplers (305/70-17) for about 7000+ miles.

Nitto's are quieter.

Toyo's were not great in snow/ice, but they aren't supposed to be...and well, no tire is great on ice. Nitto's...haven't been through a CO winter with them yet.

Both were good on the rocky trails here in CO. I have definitely done more off roading with the Nittos, and like someone above says, they do get nicked and chunked out a bit. Yes, all tires will...but by comparison, these seem to chunk a little more easily than the Toyo's.

They are both heavy. My Nitto's are e-rated and I've run them at 15 PSI and slightly below with no issues. Usually I do between 18-20 for normal stuff and they are great. Both have felt balanced. I usually check for lost wheel weights and haven't found any.

The Toyo's were run on stock Trail rims and the Nitto's are on SCS Ray10's. Honestly I liked both sets, but the Nitto's are what I will run again. I've run Duratracs on another truck, and i like both of these better. Better offroad, stronger sidewalls...but yes, neither are 3 peak rated like the Duratracs if that matters to you and where you live.

How much trimming did you have to do to run the 305s RGs? An issues running them without spacers? I have the BP-51s and LR UCAs going on next week and want to run the 305s without spacers on my SCS SR8s. I figure 315s would be a stretch.
 
How much trimming did you have to do to run the 305s RGs? An issues running them without spacers? I have the BP-51s and LR UCAs going on next week and want to run the 305s without spacers on my SCS SR8s. I figure 315s would be a stretch.

Good question...actually my 305's on my 17x8.5 SCS Ray10's cleared better without any spacers on. When I wheeled them like that I didn't rub the lower fender mount at the back side of the wheel well at all. I do have a BMC and a front aftermarket bumper so it cleared other areas just fine. Turning on compression...as in going down a switchback with a drop off...did cause it to rub the back of the wheel well, but not much you can do about that...except run a crazy high caster...I'm at +4.0 already with my LR UCA's.

Buuuuuuuttttt...I wanted to add a little poke to my wheels and improve, aesthetically to me, my stance. I added 1" BORA wheel spacers and got the stance I wanted, but I also added a rub area to the lower fender mount. I took off the passenger end rocker trim piece (plastic cap at the back end of the fender where the rocker starts)...well, ok I lost it on a trail when it popped off...and on both sides I have experimented with trimming. I've cut the fender liner up pretty high in the fender wells...On the driver side, I have cut off the metal support bracket of the lower fender mount and hammered it in and upward. This caused a tiny bit of bulging of the lower part of the fender, but with the hammering, it is holding it firmly.

In short, I wheel and trim...wheel and trim...wheel and trim...sometimes I trim while I wheel. The plastic fender liner is really easy to cut with a knife!

Run the 305's!:zoom:
Just be prepared to make some more mods and/or trimming.
weeeee is running the same wheels and he's on 17x9" SCS rims, no spacers I believe. He had similar rubbing issues which led him to develop the fiberglass fenders that are currently taking orders for in another thread. Probably the best solution and likely what I will do as well.
 
Good question...actually my 305's on my 17x8.5 SCS Ray10's cleared better without any spacers on. When I wheeled them like that I didn't rub the lower fender mount at the back side of the wheel well at all. I do have a BMC and a front aftermarket bumper so it cleared other areas just fine. Turning on compression...as in going down a switchback with a drop off...did cause it to rub the back of the wheel well, but not much you can do about that...except run a crazy high caster...I'm at +4.0 already with my LR UCA's.

Buuuuuuuttttt...I wanted to add a little poke to my wheels and improve, aesthetically to me, my stance. I added 1" BORA wheel spacers and got the stance I wanted, but I also added a rub area to the lower fender mount. I took off the passenger end rocker trim piece (plastic cap at the back end of the fender where the rocker starts)...well, ok I lost it on a trail when it popped off...and on both sides I have experimented with trimming. I've cut the fender liner up pretty high in the fender wells...On the driver side, I have cut off the metal support bracket of the lower fender mount and hammered it in and upward. This caused a tiny bit of bulging of the lower part of the fender, but with the hammering, it is holding it firmly.

In short, I wheel and trim...wheel and trim...wheel and trim...sometimes I trim while I wheel. The plastic fender liner is really easy to cut with a knife!

Run the 305's!:zoom:
Just be prepared to make some more mods and/or trimming.
weeeee is running the same wheels and he's on 17x9" SCS rims, no spacers I believe. He had similar rubbing issues which led him to develop the fiberglass fenders that are currently taking orders for in another thread. Probably the best solution and likely what I will do as well.


Great thanks for all the info. Your original setup before the spacers will be close to mine. I have Hefty Fab bumpers front and rear and will also be doing the BMC and going +4 positive caster with the LR UCAs. I don't mind some trimming, just didn't want to be bulging fenders! Thanks.
 
Good question...actually my 305's on my 17x8.5 SCS Ray10's cleared better without any spacers on. When I wheeled them like that I didn't rub the lower fender mount at the back side of the wheel well at all. I do have a BMC and a front aftermarket bumper so it cleared other areas just fine. Turning on compression...as in going down a switchback with a drop off...did cause it to rub the back of the wheel well, but not much you can do about that...except run a crazy high caster...I'm at +4.0 already with my LR UCA's.

Buuuuuuuttttt...I wanted to add a little poke to my wheels and improve, aesthetically to me, my stance. I added 1" BORA wheel spacers and got the stance I wanted, but I also added a rub area to the lower fender mount. I took off the passenger end rocker trim piece (plastic cap at the back end of the fender where the rocker starts)...well, ok I lost it on a trail when it popped off...and on both sides I have experimented with trimming. I've cut the fender liner up pretty high in the fender wells...On the driver side, I have cut off the metal support bracket of the lower fender mount and hammered it in and upward. This caused a tiny bit of bulging of the lower part of the fender, but with the hammering, it is holding it firmly.

In short, I wheel and trim...wheel and trim...wheel and trim...sometimes I trim while I wheel. The plastic fender liner is really easy to cut with a knife!

Run the 305's!:zoom:
Just be prepared to make some more mods and/or trimming.
weeeee is running the same wheels and he's on 17x9" SCS rims, no spacers I believe. He had similar rubbing issues which led him to develop the fiberglass fenders that are currently taking orders for in another thread. Probably the best solution and likely what I will do as well.

why not just run the 285/75/17.... I've no rubbing at all with mine on 17x9's. I reformed my fender line with a heat gun and the rest of my details are in my signature
 

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