Is a "stubby" impact wrench useful over normal one for suspension work?

str8flexed

str8flexed

Member
I'm thinking of picking up an impact wrench before I put on my suspension in the near future, and was looking at the Milwaukee M12 stubby since it seems so much more maneuverable.

However, I was wondering if there were tight spaces involved by the suspension where it would even be useful to have a stubby? Or is everything pretty much easily accessible even with a full sized impact wrench?

The full sized impact wrenches offer more torque and are less expensive.
 

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str8flexed said:
I'm thinking of picking up an impact wrench before I put on my suspension in the near future, and was looking at the Milwaukee M12 stubby since it seems so much more maneuverable.

However, I was wondering if there were tight spaces involved by the suspension where it would even be useful to have a stubby? Or is everything pretty much easily accessible even with a full sized impact wrench?

The full sized impact wrenches offer more torque and are less expensive.
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Tbh I dont think it would help too much. I have the M18 Fuel impact and was too big to reach most places except the control arm bolts etc. The bolts for swapping suspension are either to hard to reach and much be done by hand or bolted tight on and needs air tools. M12 fuel stubby impact is really great but is little underpowered for the bolts that are on here. My M18 didnt have enough power or struggled to get some of the bolts off.
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Elan750 said:
go with air powered! your spend less in the long run, and have more power.
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I don’t think I want to go through the trouble of getting an air compressor. Lol. Okay, looks like I’ll be picking up maybe a regular Fuel M18 impact wrench. Figure that would be good for lug nuts, if nothing else. I’ve got a breaker bar but I heard that using an impact wrench puts more rotational force instead of lateral force and thus you’re less likely to sheer a tight nut if it’s really tight.
 
I bought a dewalt 20volt high torque 1/2” impact and have been happy with it, it’s never met a nut or bolt it couldn’t loosen- even on my dad’s truck from the northeast. I also didn’t want to deal with an air compressor and it’s small enough to bring on the trail in case I need to replace a CV axle or even just a tire change.

Like others have said any impact wrench is too big for some of the suspension bolts, but an impact still saves so much time versus a breaker bar and a sledge hammer. Just get a good universal impact socket and you’ll be able to use it on a lot of bolts.
 
Fwiw

That little M12 Impact was put through a true torque test and pulled lug nuts that were torqued just over 400ft-lb. WELL ABOVE WHAT OUR WHEEL LUGS ARE SUPPOSED TO BE>>>

Video Link: HERE
 
With a newer rust-free rig pretty much any impact will do the job. You’ll appreciate more power when working on a buddy’s rig with rusted bolts!
 
Elan750 said:
go with air powered! your spend less in the long run, and have more power.
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Not so these days. Ive ran a IR 1/2" impact for years and just got a Milwaukee M18 Fuel 2767-20 1/2" impact. At 1400 ftlbs removal and 1000 ftlbs of fastening torque thats hard to beat. Im sure there are monsters out there to do it but the flexability of strong cordless you can use anywhere is hard to beat.
 
davem said:
Not so these days. Ive ran a IR 1/2" impact for years and just got a Milwaukee M18 Fuel 2767-20 1/2" impact. At 1400 ftlbs removal and 1000 ftlbs of fastening torque thats hard to beat. Im sure there are monsters out there to do it but the flexability of strong cordless you can use anywhere is hard to beat.
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See I came from the other way, I have a milwaukee m18 1/2" impact.and had to buy a few batteries. The voltage starts to drop rather quick, and you only notice it on their big impact drivers. it will go from 1400lbs, to 1200lbs and just keep dropping. Then bought the milwaukee grinder which is a battery monster. Then needed a die grinder.

I just bought an 80gallon compressor slightly used for $200 bucks, and an air ratchet, impact gun, die grinder, and cut off tool for another 100. Cant be happier, and can fill tires, clean workspaces, blow out the sprinkler system, use air nailers, sanders, etc. Its a bigger investment at first but in the long run, you get more for your money.

I do keep the milwaukee in the trunk which is nice.
 
Ir all the way. I built my own system with a 165psi pump, one 4 gallon air as the primary tool tank, connected to two inline 7 gal. tanks on a custom steel square tube rack that I welded together. I installed casters on the bottom so that I can roll it around where I need it. Complete with tool holder and retractable hose reel. Yeah,I was bored. I have an M18 Milwaukee impact wrench, and I do use it for some things, but nothing beats air as long as you have the volume to run without waiting for air.

By running them in a series, I constantly have enough air to do whatever I want to do with my tools, and the pump does not cycle on very much at all. And with only 18 gallon capacity +the 3/8th X 100ft air hose. All of the tanks are aluminum and rated to 165psi as well, so if I want to get REAL, I can crank the psi up quite a bit more.

This is kind of how I have it set up.
 

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I have limited experience with the "stubby" electric impact guns but, while I've been impressed over the last few years with the quality and effectiveness of electric impact tools they are still no replacement for a quality pnuematic impact gun. I use electric tools almost exclusively when working on cars and 98% of the time they get me through just fine. Every once in a while I find my self F@!%ing around with a recalcitrant fastener (usually on a drive shaft or wheel bearing) and after giving it the WD-40, the old Fonzarelli, and the heat-and-beat... I grab the air gun.

Afterwards I usually wonder why I didn't grab the air gun sooner.
 
I have the 3/8's stubby. Pre-ordered when it was announced and got it the 1st day it was available. It's a great little tool, but once you start using extension and universal joints, it loses its appeal and purpose. It is more than strong enough to rip lug nuts and "clean" suspension fasteners if you have a straight shot to em. Rusted stuff might take a few more ugga dugga's ... but I still turn to my M18 1/2" mid torque out of habit. Why wait a few ugga duggas when the M18 can just rip em off. And the mid torque isn't that awkward to finesse in tight spots. Different story if you have the big boy high torque.

The only thing I don't like about the stubby is that there isn't much of a nose behind the anvil. Throw a short wall socket on it, and it feels like your hand and tool is pressed up against whatever you're working on. The "Gen 1" M12 3/8 impact had a bit of a nose on it, allowing you to fit the tool into more limited spaced areas. The "Gen 2" sacrificed the nose for a smaller tool, but in turn got fatter with girth.

Ultimately, both together are great if you can swing for the M18 and M12. If you have to choose one, look at the M12 vs M18 line up of tools and decide by which battery line you'll want to use more. Dang Milwaukee batteries aren't cheap. Plan ahead for other power tools you'll want to buy, and go from there.
 
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There are tight spaces where a combination wrench is required, or you can bend your sheet metal, your choice.

I wouldn't buy a tool based on ease of use for shock installs. Shocks are, in my opinion, hand tool projects.

Aside from the shock tower, anything will fit in there. I don't think you'll get power tools on the top of that tower for the front two bolts.

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cloud said:
There are tight spaces where a combination wrench is required, or you can bend your sheet metal, your choice.

I wouldn't buy a tool based on ease of use for shock installs. Shocks are, in my opinion, hand tool projects.

Aside from the shock tower, anything will fit in there. I don't think you'll get power tools on the top of that tower for the front two bolts.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I love my Snap on T handle ratchet wrench for those.

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