06-13-2020, 09:41 PM
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#31
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Virginia Beach VA
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That’s a sweet write up....really nice job! I have 3 x Gen 4’s and a Gen 5 that I like to wrench on. I popped in two CV axles into one of my 2005’s yesterday and I was looking at those LCA bushings and thinking “man those things have to be about rotted out by now, but those would be a ***** to replace.” I’m thinking I will let them ride until they fall out on their own!
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06-14-2020, 10:24 AM
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#32
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johntdye13
That’s a sweet write up....really nice job! I have 3 x Gen 4’s and a Gen 5 that I like to wrench on. I popped in two CV axles into one of my 2005’s yesterday and I was looking at those LCA bushings and thinking “man those things have to be about rotted out by now, but those would be a ***** to replace.” I’m thinking I will let them ride until they fall out on their own!
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Thanks, I appreciate it! You got quite a nice 4runner collection going on! There is definitely a time commitment to replacing them, but nothing is too difficult. I think earlier I estimated 12-13 hrs all together for both sides from looking at my picture timestamps. I have also wondered how difficult it would be to buy the 1A Auto arms for ~$175 and throw the whitelines in there. Having a second set to work on would negate the downtime, and brand new arms might make it easier to remove the shells.
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06-15-2020, 03:38 PM
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#33
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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Age: 53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y=mx+b
Thanks, I appreciate it! You got quite a nice 4runner collection going on! There is definitely a time commitment to replacing them, but nothing is too difficult. I think earlier I estimated 12-13 hrs all together for both sides from looking at my picture timestamps. I have also wondered how difficult it would be to buy the 1A Auto arms for ~$175 and throw the whitelines in there. Having a second set to work on would negate the downtime, and brand new arms might make it easier to remove the shells.
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Thats what i was thinking almost... 2 years ago... already, where does the time go?
Wet looking LBJ sent me down this path.
Got the 555 LBJs on a Rockauto, close out (forget what i paid) and the LCAs there for $56 each. Paid a buckforty for the WL bushings.
Has been sitting in the garage collecting dust, all ready to go.
Guess i havent gotten bored enough yet to install em.
I could not get the large side bushing out of the new LCA with the 'jack' method hence that pic i showed you in that other thread, removing the bushing flange, actually worked really well.
If you use your OEM arms your going to need to get with it it you ever want to drive again.
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06-15-2020, 04:15 PM
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#34
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Join Date: Sep 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BackOff
Thats what i was thinking almost... 2 years ago... already, where does the time go?
Wet looking LBJ sent me down this path.
Got the 555 LBJs on a Rockauto, close out (forget what i paid) and the LCAs there for $56 each. Paid a buckforty for the WL bushings.
Has been sitting in the garage collecting dust, all ready to go.
Guess i havent gotten bored enough yet to install em.
I could not get the large side bushing out of the new LCA with the 'jack' method hence that pic i showed you in that other thread, removing the bushing flange, actually worked really well.
If you use your OEM arms your going to need to get with it it you ever want to drive again.
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Haha yeah I went down this path because I wanted to wire wheel and paint behind the LCAs. LCAs for $56 each is a steal, those $175 were the cheapest I'd seen until now!
The jack method I used only removed the rubber piece of the bushing from that flange/shell. Maybe with less crusty arms it could take the shell with it. It actually took me an embarrassingly long time to figure what was going on in that picture. Mine were so crusty, it didn't even resemble your clean ones. On the first LCA I only made 1 cut and it bound on itself. Once my brain figured out what was going on in that picture, I made 2 cuts like you suggested, and the shell came right out.
I used my only set of LCAs to do this haha. Thankfully I didn't have to go anywhere, so it wasn't an issue for the 4runner to be tied up for a bit.
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06-16-2020, 08:17 PM
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#35
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Nevada
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Great write up. I really appreciate this and will have to put it to the test soon. Recently replaced my uca’s with a new pair from JBA. The alignment guy said he couldn’t align the front end because the lower bushings were badly worn(original with 129,000mi) and would fall out of alignment if I hit a bump or pothole or something. Anyways I’m ordering the Whiteline bushings because I can’t afford high end lca’s at this moment. If this wasn’t my daily driver I’d weld in TC cam tab gussets while it was apart but for now I can’t destroy a pair of tires on my upcoming road trip to my property in northern Nevada. Thanks again for taking the time to chronicle your journey and experience.
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2007 Titanium SR5 4WD
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06-16-2020, 10:59 PM
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#36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-desertT4R
Great write up. I really appreciate this and will have to put it to the test soon. Recently replaced my uca’s with a new pair from JBA. The alignment guy said he couldn’t align the front end because the lower bushings were badly worn(original with 129,000mi) and would fall out of alignment if I hit a bump or pothole or something. Anyways I’m ordering the Whiteline bushings because I can’t afford high end lca’s at this moment. If this wasn’t my daily driver I’d weld in TC cam tab gussets while it was apart but for now I can’t destroy a pair of tires on my upcoming road trip to my property in northern Nevada. Thanks again for taking the time to chronicle your journey and experience.
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I hope its useful to you! I was starting to get bored trapped up at home, so it seemed like a good time-sink to take pictures and make a tutorial for my install. Please post some pictures when you get them apart, I'd love to see them! I also think pictures from the community will help others on their bushing journey. Let me know if you have any questions and I'd be happy to answer them!
This is my daily as well, and the college budget can't always stretch for the good stuff. The Whitelines fit the budget and it was a great learning experience. I did the LCAs separately on different weekends, but if you have a really beautiful weekend, you could definitely crank this out in the 2 days. Doing them together would also cut down on time.
I liked the idea of the TC cam gussets as well. I'm just starting to get into off-road mods now, so I don't have any experience with the stock gussets bending yet. I wonder how much the stock gussets could be beefed up with a bit of extra metal welded onto the tabs, maybe I'll have to try it out.
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06-16-2020, 11:20 PM
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#37
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Join Date: Jun 2019
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Real Name: Matt
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White lines are ordered. Lower ball joints in stock locally. I live in southern Nevada so most weekends here are beautiful lol. I may not have all the rust and crust like yours did as my T4R has lived its life in the desert. I don’t do a lot of hard core wheeling, mostly “overlanding”, camping, hunting etc. so I think the cam tab gussets may be overkill but you never know. If I can’t tackle this in a weekend then I’ll take my wife’s Scion and leave her stranded haha.
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06-16-2020, 11:34 PM
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#38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-desertT4R
White lines are ordered. Lower ball joints in stock locally. I live in southern Nevada so most weekends here are beautiful lol. I may not have all the rust and crust like yours did as my T4R has lived its life in the desert. I don’t do a lot of hard core wheeling, mostly “overlanding”, camping, hunting etc. so I think the cam tab gussets may be overkill but you never know. If I can’t tackle this in a weekend then I’ll take my wife’s Scion and leave her stranded haha.
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Nice! No rust is certainly a plus to the desert, and you probably won't have to go through the painting headache either. I hate painting for some reason lol. Mine spent most of its life in PA and is now in VA, so shes a tad crusty. You can most likely skip all the acid stuff which is another bonus. Good that you have another ride just in case, a little family carpool never hurt anyone lol.
I updated the tutorial earlier this week to include pictures from the 2-cut method on the shells, definitely much easier than wrestling the shell with only 1 cut. It came right out after the chunk between the cuts was removed.
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06-27-2020, 11:10 PM
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#39
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Join Date: Jun 2019
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Just completed my bushing and lower ball joint replacement. Thanks again for the great write up. All four of my lca bushings came out in one piece. The bottle jack/heat method works well for this. Also I started spraying PB Blaster on all the bushings and ball joints several days ago. My adjustment bolts/cams were in excellent shape, All I did was clean and lube them upon re-installation. The ball joint press I rented from O’reilly Auto Parts didn’t have too many options and I ended up making a sleeve out of 2.5” id steel tube to help remove the ball joint. A BFH is also a big help. I used a 4# hammer and a Mapp gas torch to persuade the ball joints out. I used 1/2” and 3/4” plumbers fitting brushes to clean the orifices of the intermediate plates. I had a build up of thread locker in mine. I use Super Clean degreaser to clean everything and mineral spirits before painting. I used VHT epoxy paint in gloss black on the lca’s and intermediate plates. I used Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty grease on moving parts except where the grease Whiteline includes with their bushings was necessary. A couple things to point out the ball joint “C” clip will shoot out upon removal. The first one shot about 30’ and the second one about 20’ so be careful. Also if the OP will please include safety glasses on his list especially if you’re using power tools cause no one wants to lose an eye.
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Last edited by Hi-desertT4R; 06-28-2020 at 11:06 AM.
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06-28-2020, 10:31 AM
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#40
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-desertT4R
Just completed my bushing and lower ball joint replacement. Thanks again for the great write up. All four of my lca bushings came out in one piece. The bottle jack/heat method works well for this. Also I started spraying PB Blaster on all the bushings and ball joints several days ago. My adjustment bolts/cams were in excellent shape, All I did was clean and lube them upon re-installation. The ball joint press I rented from O’reilly Auto Parts didn’t have too many options and I ended up making a sleeve out of 2.5” id steel tube to help remove the ball joint. A BFH is also a big help. I used a 4# hammer and a Mapp gas torch to persuade the ball joints out. I used 1/2” and 3/4” plumbers fitting brushes to clean the orifices of the intermediate plates. I had a build up of thread locker in mine. I use Super Clean degreaser to clean everything and mineral spirits before painting. I used VHT epoxy paint in gloss black on the lca’s and intermediate plates. I used Lucas Heavy Duty grease on moving parts except where the grease Whiteline includes with their bushings was necessary. A couple things to point out the ball joint “C” clip will shoot out upon removal. The first one shot about 30’ and the second one about 20’ so be careful. Also if the OP will please include safety glasses on his list especially if you’re using power tools cause no one wants to lose an eye.
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Looks awesome! Great that the bushings and shells came out in one piece, removing the stuck shells is half the battle! Thanks for adding your installation tips, I'll link this post in the main thread. Epoxy paint was a good idea, I've heard good things about it holding up well to abuse. I'll also add safety glasses, good point on the c-clips flying!
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07-22-2020, 04:36 PM
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#41
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
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I have tons of goodies waiting to be installed. Many hours in the garage in my near future. They include:
Whiteline LCA bushings
Moog LBJ's
Moog tie rod ends
Total Chaos spindle gussets
Waiting on:
Total Chaos cam tab gussets
Poly Performance Taco Tabs
Also another project I decided to embark on is the install of exhaust cam gears with a 3 degree retard and an intake plenum spacer. Still waiting on those parts. I'm thinking I should start a build thread.
For anyone wanting to jump on the whiteline bushings I found a website where they are about $122 shipped, which beats even Amazon prime which was the former cheapest I found. Link here:
Whiteline Plus 02-09 Lexus GX470 / 06+ Toyota FJ Cruiser Fr C/A – Lwr Inner Front & Rear Bushing Kit, W53312 – RCA Garage
Pics because no one cares without pictures.
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07-22-2020, 11:03 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montijo505
I have tons of goodies waiting to be installed. Many hours in the garage in my near future. They include:
Whiteline LCA bushings
Moog LBJ's
Moog tie rod ends
Total Chaos spindle gussets
Waiting on:
Total Chaos cam tab gussets
Poly Performance Taco Tabs
Also another project I decided to embark on is the install of exhaust cam gears with a 3 degree retard and an intake plenum spacer. Still waiting on those parts. I'm thinking I should start a build thread.
For anyone wanting to jump on the whiteline bushings I found a website where they are about $122 shipped, which beats even Amazon prime which was the former cheapest I found. Link here:
Whiteline Plus 02-09 Lexus GX470 / 06+ Toyota FJ Cruiser Fr C/A – Lwr Inner Front & Rear Bushing Kit, W53312 – RCA Garage
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Awesome! I'm excited that more people are taking on this project and are helping to document their process here was well! After the control arm is rebuilt, everything is gusseted, and the cams are deleted, you're going to have a bulletproof front end! I did notice the Amazon bushings went up in price when I was organizing my service records. I got mine there for around $120 as well, which seems to be the best price for these. I'll add that site to the parts section for comparison.
I'm also really intrigued by the 3* exhaust cam retard. I love reading build threads, there is so much to learn from others experiences. I'd certainly be down to read if you get one going!
Last edited by y=mx+b; 07-22-2020 at 11:05 PM.
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07-23-2020, 11:40 PM
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#43
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OEM LBJ Loop-Hole
So, I was browsing around TacomaWorld for fun and stumbled into a Whiteline Bushing thread. There was a guy that was able to get OEM LBJs imported from Japan or UAE through a 3rd party exporter. I don't know if the Tacoma and 4runner LBJs are interchangable, seems they have different part numbers at the auto parts stores. Regardless, the same method could probably be used to get OEM 4runner LBJs. Just thought I would want to pass this along to anyone interested in this option.
The post is #29 in this thread: Aftermarket lower control arms - which one is better?
I'll link to here on the first page, so its visible without digging to far.
Last edited by y=mx+b; 07-24-2020 at 06:26 PM.
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07-30-2020, 12:26 PM
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#44
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Join Date: May 2014
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I just put in an inquiry to see if they can supply the correct part as I cannot find the part # anywhere. Even called a couple dealerships and they don't have access to the part number supposedly. Will update when I get a response.
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08-26-2020, 09:12 PM
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#45
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Awesome post! Thank you for taking the time to document this process. the results look great!
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2005 SR5 4WD: V8 - Doug Thorley headers, Bilstein 5100s, Slee offroad steel brake lines, Tundra brake swap, JBA upper control arms, 33s on RockTrix wheels, etc.
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