Recent content by dipNrip

Some additional background, it’s a 2018 with 150k miles that I plan on selling or trading in another month or two. Not trying to spend a lot of money or time on it. Just don’t want to get stranded somewhere. I bought the caliper and wheel bearing from advanced auto to make returning one later...

Started a month or so had a bad shudder when heavy braking. Rotated tires and noticed driver passenger side wheel barely moved. Tire has no wobble and hear no noise while driving. Pads passenger side look as good as the driver side. No noticeable extra brake dust. Notice that the rotor hub is...

Definitely seems to be an issue with the 2018s. There was no videos online until this year on how to replace the 5th gen water pump and they were all 2018s I saw. Most look similar to mine in that they are gasket leaks not pump failures. Maybe bad gasket? On mine I finally gave up and took it...

Almost the same location as mine but looks way worse. Definitely have them do it under warranty. I’ve driven 1k miles and lost a small fraction. Since it’s gotten warm out it hardly leaks at all and most likely only after it cools. I can see it bead up after cooling in to spots I listed...

I’m sure everyone will get a good laugh on this. Local dealership here western PA quoted 5 hours at 150/hr for 750 without parts. I already bought the parts. So if someone where to come if off the street I’m sure it be over a grand. I understand it’s a lot of labor (they maybe over estimated...

Ok you are taking about the bearing seal. It’s not coming of there, as that’s located under the fan I can clearly see is weeping out on 11 and 1 o’clock position of the water pump between the inlet water housing seal and pipe oring.

What shaft are you talking about? Mine appears to leaking in two spots. One on top left on the engine side and top right on the water inlet housing side. Outside the water pump gasket, I know there’s a gasket between the water pump and inlet housing and another between inlet house and coolant...

I got the new OEM pump and came with gasket. Gasket seems to have thin plastic or thin metal layer on both of the metal gasket. FSM doesn’t say anything about adding sealant. Should sealant be added? Gasket seems like it’ll just end up leaking again as is without any sealant.

Noticed some dirt build up behind the inspection plate on the oil return lines. I took some pictures but obviously can’t tell where it’s coming from with all the junk, I notice a small stain under the corner valve cover but not much and also had some behind the timing cover inspection plate but...

I’m probably going to try the sealant first. It won’t harm anything. And I assume the weep hole is on the bottom so it can’t be the pump going bad. Like most things on new vehicles it’s the pain of tearing everything out to get where you need to get. And I ain’t small, lol. I haven’t been able...

Noticed a while back I had a coolant leak. Noticed it first from coolant level. Didn’t lose a lot but was at low. Looked around and saw it below the pump and above. Cleaned it up and didn’t have issues for over a month. Looked at it again this weekend and coolant level didn’t really change...

Makes sense. Even doing it via the cooling lines you’ll mix new and old and your way is way easier. How long did you run the vehicle after filling? If you wait too long it’ll be too well mixed to get a lot of the old out. Not sure how long it should take to cycle the fluid out of the pan...

Curious to what you paid? Debating on doing myself vs stealership doing it. They quoted me 385 locally which seems really high. Use to be just below $300.

Anybody? Leaning towards the semi metallics as have a boat and ceramics are well known to my knowledge for heavy/extended braking

Weld in general are porous so unless they added additional coating they’ll always be first to rust. Also the welds should be tougher than the metal it’s joining if done correctly. That all being said not a major issue but once it starts it’ll spread. I’ll wire brush any rust and spray with some...