Recent content by Honda pc

reason why I do my basic oil change and most of everything on my cars....and also do home repairs most of time....learned from many bad experiences and just getting lied to and lost of $$$.....Its just business as usual of this world....customer service, good quality work, parts have gone...

thanks.....guess rock auto is okay to purchase denso fuel pumps...I heard so many fake denso pumps out there... how long you been running that new denso pump??? does it hold fuel pressure on engine off and whats lowest pressure it holds down to for 30 mins or longer or next morning??? no...

thats nice to know....seems you had similar problems as OP.....just wondering if OP replied back or fixed it....since he was doing lot of options of testing which I did similar too.... did you buy a denso pump and from who, dealer or who...cost ???

just wondering if you ever fixed your problems.....I was thinking it need a new Denso fuel pump???

update 7/06/26.... well... I finally fixed it for good....meanwhile I was limping it along with various driving test at different speeds and 420 went away and got test passed barely.....but later next registration...code 420 would not go away and had to dig in hard....I replaced the front...

do it now while you can still turn the key to Accessories position and push button and whole cylinder comes out and put in new one....should be easy.. mine wouldn't turn to accessories position and I had it drill it out and put in new one....bought one off AutoZone and done...wasn't that hard...

So I was all set to do a timing belt kit job and all the seals.... car is at 290k miles so far and running good.. So I got the seals from local toyota dealer both camshaft and crankshaft seals..... camshaft seal is in bag with toyota ## but no origin made country, but has NOK, which I understand...

try air hammer chizel at the broke stud... but don't damage the knuckle tie rod hole... hold the air hammer steady as it wanders off all over if not steady.

Wheel bearings.. Front or back.. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I just watched one on youtube guy who saids that the clip on that brake pad that holds it in should have the curved part down....not up like in the pics... is that right??? what's the correct position or show pic of correct position.

here is the post I created....almost same as yours... Code PO420 PASS/NO PASS smog test?? I am working on same thing here in socal.... still testing it out...its a pending light warning....not a full check engine code 420 yet.... But it was before...had a code 420 and full check engine...

Didn't check exhaust leak and no regular topping off colant.. So really no coolant level drops... No head gasket problems. Also.. Is it the small front catalytic converter or the rear one that gives off code 420.. Going to be doing a catalytic converter temp check pre/post to see if catalytic...

update 7/06/26.... well... I finally fixed it for good....meanwhile I was limping it along with various driving test at different speeds and 420 went away and got test passed barely.....but later next registration...code 420 would not go away and had to dig in hard....I replaced the front...

I tbought the whole point of getting cooler was to bypass the radiator and prevent milkshake transmission oil destroying transmission. I don't think having cooler transmission temp is big deal unless you're climbing hills or with heavy loads. So why not bypass the radiator all together and...

Had to cut one in the back.. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk