Recent content by Honda pc

update 7/06/26.... well... I finally fixed it for good....meanwhile I was limping it along with various driving test at different speeds and 420 went away and got test passed barely.....but later next registration...code 420 would not go away and had to dig in hard....I replaced the front...

do it now while you can still turn the key to Accessories position and push button and whole cylinder comes out and put in new one....should be easy.. mine wouldn't turn to accessories position and I had it drill it out and put in new one....bought one off AutoZone and done...wasn't that hard...

So I was all set to do a timing belt kit job and all the seals.... car is at 290k miles so far and running good.. So I got the seals from local toyota dealer both camshaft and crankshaft seals..... camshaft seal is in bag with toyota ## but no origin made country, but has NOK, which I understand...

try air hammer chizel at the broke stud... but don't damage the knuckle tie rod hole... hold the air hammer steady as it wanders off all over if not steady.

Wheel bearings.. Front or back.. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I just watched one on youtube guy who saids that the clip on that brake pad that holds it in should have the curved part down....not up like in the pics... is that right??? what's the correct position or show pic of correct position.

here is the post I created....almost same as yours... Code PO420 PASS/NO PASS smog test?? I am working on same thing here in socal.... still testing it out...its a pending light warning....not a full check engine code 420 yet.... But it was before...had a code 420 and full check engine...

Didn't check exhaust leak and no regular topping off colant.. So really no coolant level drops... No head gasket problems. Also.. Is it the small front catalytic converter or the rear one that gives off code 420.. Going to be doing a catalytic converter temp check pre/post to see if catalytic...

update 7/06/26.... well... I finally fixed it for good....meanwhile I was limping it along with various driving test at different speeds and 420 went away and got test passed barely.....but later next registration...code 420 would not go away and had to dig in hard....I replaced the front...

I tbought the whole point of getting cooler was to bypass the radiator and prevent milkshake transmission oil destroying transmission. I don't think having cooler transmission temp is big deal unless you're climbing hills or with heavy loads. So why not bypass the radiator all together and...

Had to cut one in the back.. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

milwaukee is the only way to go....lots of option...they have all the power tools, 12v is good, automotive tools, plumbing and electrical trades and OPE...garden power tools....pretty $$ dewalt is ok too...but doesn't cover the range that milwaukee covers....and limited...but its cheaper then...

I follow this method...bought the ebay or amazon elecric pump...cheap $20 or so.... and dump the fluid flush...one end drain to whatever container...and supply hose to the new transmission oil jug... I used about 3---1 gallon jugs of walmart valvoline maxlife atf fluid... simple and fast... in...

there was a discussion about toyota dealer radiator....there are 2 kinds for same car... one expensive and other one cheap.... Parts guy saying the cheap one denoted by AZ as made in china Denso... and other expensive one as made in Japan..... and another mentioned that Koyo is still cheap but...

yeah...too many stories about fake toyota parts on ebay and sometimes amazon too... last time I bought the asin kit of rock auto and worked out good...but then I am starting to hear issue with rock auto stuff too.. so next time, I am just going with local toyota dealer who thankfully has...