My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

Well I have been hearing a jingle sound in the drivers side and had narrowed it down to the front wheel assembly.

The brake pad scraper was touching the rotor.

I discovered that inner inner Tie-Rod on the passengers side is dead also.

It’s nice to know pads on this rig can be changed without removing the caliper.

I do need to figure out if the pins are coated. I had to descale them to remove them. If OEM ones are coated I’ll get new ones so the pads float better.

When I bought this rig as my project it seemed like the PO had just put new pads and calipers and rotors on. He left the boxes with the old parts in them in it when I towed it home. 30,000 miles and the pads are shot. Interesting.

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I don't think the oem pins are coated. If they are it's just a basic zinc coat. I have no idea why these pins are not stainless. As they can get scaled and even swelled in this area before the pads are gone....:(

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I don't think the oem pins are coated. If they are it's just a basic zinc coat. I have no idea why these pins are not stainless. As they can get scaled and even swelled in this area before the pads are gone....:(

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It be nice if they were anodized. I coated them with brake grease for now but that attracts the brake dust and causes different problems.


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Well I have been hearing a jingle sound in the drivers side and had narrowed it down to the front wheel assembly.

The brake pad scraper was touching the rotor.

I discovered that inner inner Tie-Rod on the passengers side is dead also.

It’s nice to know pads on this rig can be changed without removing the caliper.

I do need to figure out if the pins are coated. I had to descale them to remove them. If OEM ones are coated I’ll get new ones so the pads float better.

When I bought this rig as my project it seemed like the PO had just put new pads and calipers and rotors on. He left the boxes with the old parts in them in it when I towed it home. 30,000 miles and the pads are shot. Interesting.

5a3e282b63e9222237c510c145ac5ec6.jpg

e338b94563dab1bfe4e91df76b6efe70.jpg

9bf934a6466e510f32e081be5d17892d.jpg





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just watched one on youtube guy who saids that the clip on that brake pad that holds it in should have the curved part down....not up like in the pics...
is that right??? what's the correct position or show pic of correct position.
 
I just watched one on youtube guy who saids that the clip on that brake pad that holds it in should have the curved part down....not up like in the pics...
is that right??? what's the correct position or show pic of correct position.
The above pictured is the correct orientation
 
I just watched one on youtube guy who saids that the clip on that brake pad that holds it in should have the curved part down....not up like in the pics...

is that right??? what's the correct position or show pic of correct position.
Yes. They can go on backwards. So put them on that way..:)

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So, this off stretch (through Sunday) I’m changing oil. I bought the OEM tall filter at Walmart which I’m going to use this time and instead of the Pennzoil Platinum I normally use I think I’m going to use Rotella T6 5w40. I’m still thinking about it since it’s now cold out.

Reason is between the oil and filter I want to see if anything changes with regards to how soon my oil pressure light goes off during a cold and hot start. I put an Asin oil pump in with the rebuild and thought I’d see the oil light go off with just the starter. Still not happy about it. But my cummins would take 5 seconds to build pressure after a cold start…..I even posted a thread about oil pressure at idle and with the 5w30 platinum I seem to have the highest, 8psi, of all that responded.


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Today I finally got to change the oil and use the D3 Toy oil filter.

The fresh engine has 30k miles on it now so I spot checked a spark plug as well. Gap erosion is less than .005 thou. Textbook looking spark plug with light brown on the intake side of the plug.
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The top of a Gatorade bottle screws right into the oil fill hole and holds its position.

Edit. There is a new post above this one also. Some people don’t scroll up.

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Last edited:
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The top of a Gatorade bottle screws right into the oil fill hole and holds its position.

Edit. There is a new post above this one also. Some people don’t scroll up.

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I use the pure leaf tea bottles for the same reason.
 
My steering is not right driving down the road. Undulations in the road tug on the steering wheel. Time to put the front end up in the air and see what’s loose. It feels like I’m toe’d out and it pulls side to side. Ugh…….


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My steering is not right driving down the road. Undulations in the road tug on the steering wheel. Time to put the front end up in the air and see what’s loose. It feels like I’m toe’d out and it pulls side to side. Ugh…….


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You sure it's just not frozen ice messing with you. As I have had wobbles etc cause by frozen water.

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Roads are dry but salt covered. It went from tracking strait and true to feeling a slight wander with steering corrections like I am driving the old CJ.


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I have the exact same one. I need to cut one longer - the short version like that is just a bit too low to safely used on by the 4Runner and my 3s-gte Camry.

Been tempted to get this kit too:
Master Oil Funnel Filling Kit

-Charlie


I want to make one with just the bottom of the bottle cut off. I’m good at pouring without a funnel but the extra height is welcome. Them I don’t need to worry about pouring too fast.


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So I greased the lower balljoints and wiggled the tires.

Passenger side makes a clicking noise, drivers side is quiet. This past winter/spring I replaced the inner tie-rod on the drivers side.
I don’t think it’s the rack….with only one side making noise.


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