Recent content by MaddT4R

Absolutely west coast for sure, east is salted to death

You guys from the U.S need to shop up in Canada, the prices aren’t nearly as high. I payed 6k (cad) had to fix the 4x4 actuator. So 10k all in for a 2004 Limited V8 with 190k km’s five years ago!!

Yes i replaced the steel with rubber. I had read some people used brake lines as well. I just went to hose route out of simplicity. I don’t think pressure is an issue, but we shall see.

I used 3/8” trans cooler hose, 3/8” brass double barbed fittings and hose clamps.

Replaced two rotten and seeping trans cooler lines that run under the rad support

2004 V8 limited, has 251k km. Was the family hauler, now it’s our secondary so I am starting to do some minor mods.

Throw some thread locker on those.

Do you have any abnormal clunking or snapping noise when going between reverse and drive while holding the brake? I had bad cv’s and that noise was very apparent. You can also engage your centre diff lock and do a few tight turns and it should be clear if it’s the cv.

Got around to replacing my passenger side cv axle (drivers done last month). This one went much quicker being the second time, after I took it for a shake down in 4low center diff engaged and all my drive line chatter is gone.:thumb:

I replaced my drivers side cv axle. Fairly straight forward job, cv axle was quite possibly original and completely toast. Passenger side in being done next weekend.

Just cycled mine last night:hatsoff:

good to know, i am replacing mine soon.

2004 V8 Limited, owned for 4 years now has 154k miles

I replaced my actuator when i first bought my ‘04 on my own dime. I know exercise it every month.

Another option is if you have a friend that is a welder, you can remove the motor from the hatch and TIG weld a new threaded section on the tapered spline. I did this myself a few months ago as a project and to practice TIG and so far so good.