Recent content by nobb

As long as the boot isn't blown and the grease is still in there, I've never heard of an OE axle developing play under normal circumstances. If you don't want to spend the money on CVJ, the next best thing is to get an OE axle from the junkyard and rebuilding it with the OE boot kit...

This is what I would be concerned about as well. These joints really aren't designed to take on the full steering load without power steering. Our steering shafts are also known to develop wear over time and requiring the tack weld/roller pin mod to tighten up again.

Very good to know that driver's and passenger side are interchangeable! I've been a fool this whole time at the junkyard because it's impossible to find a good condition driver's side seal.

I think checks should be done every year at minimum, but it's really hard to say what the replacement interval should be. I'm pretty sure lifted rigs will wear through these much quicker. I had OE joints at 300,000 kms and they were still tight. I put on a 3" lift and after only 70,000 kms...

Luckily, that looks only to be surface rust. Definitely do a POR15 treatment, but make sure you take the time to clean and prep the surfaces first. When I POR15'd my frame, I only put in a moderate amount of effort with the prep, but it's still holding up very nicely 5 years later. If I...

What brand are you using and is your vehicle lifted? I'm pretty sure having a lift kills our LBJs, OE or not.

I think I ended up buying the replacement bolt from the dealer for $20. Seems overpriced, but it was a specialty bolt unfortunately.

Damn I hate these stupid bolts! I made the mistake of trying to use an impact on these and have now rounded the head. There isn't much room in there to torch it with heat. Would love to hear more tips of what you guys have tried to get this out after stripping the head!

Interesting to hear about the ATF or motor oil trick. I'm curious how exactly that helps seal a compression fitting? Seems a bit thin to me.

You're still good for another 50K. I had an old 2nd gen that looked worse than that and the timing belt still held.

Oh man, I do wonder what these trucks would ride like with brand new bushings. Are you sure they weren't hard to do? The LCA seems like a b*tch to do after all these years. Definitely would need to get torched out, and possibly a hydraulic press. I hate suspension work in general.

Which bushings did you replace?

My 3rd gen is lifted 3 inches with a slight rake to the front so I'm trying to adjust the headlights higher. However I keep turning the adjustment screw but it doesn't seem like anything happens so I'm guessing the plastic tabs have worn out. Anyone run into this or have any thoughts? Thanks.

That black frame paint looks somewhat fresh and looking at the imperfections, it's clear there is some surface rust. The seller might have touched things up recently. Doubt that rust goes very deep though, so mostly likely just an average condition frame. If you're buying online, I would try...

Not the most proper but could you not just crank on the nut a bit harder and force it to turn? The nut itself will flatten out those threads and still hold. Those threads don't look too badly damaged.