Recent content by scfw0x0f

Not that much. What pushed it over the edge was about an extra 25A of load. But neither the fuse between the alternator B post and the battery, nor the breaker from that fuse to the “house” load tripped. 99% sure that the hammered crimp was loose and overheated. With a new cable from a...

My 2021 ORP does a weird start after the battery has been completely disconnected from the vehicle for more than a few minutes. The engine revs up as normal, then drops a few hundred RPM for a few seconds, then revs back up. Is this normal? I don't disconnect the battery that often but I'd like...

I didn't make or source the cables, the shop that installed the alternator did.

One thing I learned from this experience--don't use a hammer crimp for battery/alternator cables. Get decent cables that are correctly (hydraulically) crimped from a reliable vendor, and not CCA. We were on a long road trip a couple of weeks ago. Battery warning lamp started to come on...

rigtec, what is the thinking behind paralleling to the battery with the aux load positive? Did you consider running from the alternator positive terminal to the aux loads directly, bypassing the battery? Thanks for this write-up!

I have a 2021 ORP with an uprated alternator that seems to be doing well (DC Power, 270A). There are a few rare occasions I'd like to run the built-in inverter at the 400W setting (a bit more than 100W) even when driving. I'd rather not add another inverter just for this function. I presume the...

That's likely what the shop did, but they also said they tested the alternator as well. I would have sworn that the 5th Gen still had a fixed voltage alternator, not a Euro 5/6 "smart" alternator. Is that not correct? My recollection is that the alternator was steady at ~13.8V until recently.

The voltage when idling starts at about 14V when just started, but after about 15 minutes of driving drops to about 13.45V, also at idle. We saw it drop to about 13.0V or 12.9V on Saturday while driving. No mods connected. The battery was deeply discharged twice a few weeks ago, down to about...

Another one! Just got it installed at Mike's Custom Toys in Grants Pass. Running solid so far. Looking forward to starting to load it up. EDIT: hammer-crimped cable from Mike's failed. Not going to use them again for electrical work (they had used "pretty" fuse holders with bare cable before...

It appears Nations sources it from DC Power; if you look at the photos on the Nations site, you can see the "DC POWER ENGINEERING" text on the front of their product. There appear to be some differences: Nations offers powder coating options, and the positive stud appears to be plated, or maybe...

DCPower_Anthony, I see that you now have the vehicle years for the 270XP set to 2010-2021; does that mean it's ready for prime time? Any special instructions for mounting into the newer vehicles? Thanks!

Yes, and thanks for breaking that trail! I’m holding off until DCPower_Anthony issues official instructions; my mechanic is more likely to be willing to work from those than from a post here. I do electrics, mostly, and leave the really funky wrenching to others.

Interesting questions and options! 24V alternator: I'd be interested in this, but given the problems fitting a new higher-capacity alternator, I suspect adding a second alternator would be crazy hard. I don't want to add a 24V-12V DC/DC for the rest of the electronics, change to a 24V starter...

That all sounds great but I'd rather have an over-spec alternator than have to monitor alternator temperatures personally, or chance losing charging capacity due to an overload. A 60A fuse only means that the wiring is expected to handle more than 60A, and the load is expected to draw less; it...

This is a great solution and very similar to what I plan to do; although I was going to trust the "Ignition On" feature in the Victron charger to detect that the battery is on. My bank size is targeted at 3kWh (125Ah @ 24V nominal), and they can take up to 25A when charging (really, a lot more...