Recent content by tpirman

$200 to get mine wrapped. I am in the Bay Area, so things are a little more expensive here. My installer did an excellent job and took all of half an hour. He told me after a couple days it would "set" (I forget the actual term he used) but that I could wash it just like I wash a painted...

Entirely possible. I did it like everyone above, with a jack and jack stands. Having said that, if you can find someone to help it will be MUCH easier and you'll be less likely to drop a heavy slider on your face.

I think you are right, I think he could get the caster set much higher, but possibly not at the risk of tire wear from other parameters or sacrifice of other specs. I already had the 5100s so the Toytecs were not adjusted at all because they weren't built yet. I don't believe I am over lifted...

Ahh, great points and things I had forgotten to think about and try. Amazing what a couple inches can do (that's what she said). I was even considering lowering it just a bit and having the alignment done yet again, but I am afraid they'll look at me like am crazy. Thank you guys a ton, all...

Ahh, forgot to add that key bit of info: yes, I have LR UCAs. I thought that gap between L and R was bad too. I might take it back and have a discussion. I gather from your comments that I should be able to get that steering feeling back more inline with what I had before, even after the lift?

Was hoping to get some feedback on my recent lift and alignment. The details are that I had Toytec adjustables installed on the front and then had an alignment. The specs are the first pic below. The truck drove perfectly after that. It was really stable and the steering was more stiff than...

For those of you searching, I wanted to post a little project I just finished on my Trail. I hated the non-functional hood scoop and the fact that it was perfect at reflecting the sun directly into my eyes. I purchased a knock-off hood from CarID (pretty cheap, fast shipping and it's *almost*...

Got my lift situated finally. Specs: 2011 Trail with KDSS Toytec Adjustable Coilovers on the front OME 895E on the back Bilstein 5100 all around Light Racing UCA FJ Steelies with 285/70/17 Terra Grapplers Measurements from the ground to the bottom of the fender well are 39" in the front...

Ok, good advice, and that is easy enough to test too. I can use a jack and a level to see if that would be a good way to get it across to my installer and please my eye too. Thanks.

I sometimes have a slight windshield "creak", but my biggest issue was the issue in the following thread. It was driving me nuts. I thought it was a million other things than what it actually was. I also mistook this noise for a windshield noise, so it's worth taking a look to make sure this...

I know "level" is sometimes in the eye of the beholder, but does anyone have any suggestions on defined measure points front and back that would tell the installer the truck is level? I have Bilstein 5100s all around, OME 895E on the back and adjustable Toytecs on the front. All installed but...

I have mine set at 1.75 and there is a little reverse rake. And when I put a couple bikes on the back it definitely sags more. The stock springs aren't very stiff. I am currently having OME 895Es on the back and Toytec coilovers on the front to make up for this. Any rake, reverse or whatnot...

Not sure if they've "fixed" the sticknuts, but this thread might help a little. Never mind the title, I couldn't update it: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/94048-shrockworks-install-fail-2011-te.html

I use a ProClip on the vent. Yes, it's pricey but well made, sturdy, easy to use and sits in a good position to see the screen without having to look down. Also frees up my cup holder!

I've seen those, very nice. I am thinking of taking my TE wheels and having them blasted to look more matte. Anyone know if that would work?