A Technique To Help You Break Free Your Front Differential Drain Plug Without Stripping It

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That's a good tip. Way better than welding the allen socket in.
Well yeah, way better than stripping it in the first place and having to do something like welding an allen socket onto the plug or taking a chisel and hammer to it to get it broken free.
 
Well yeah, way better than stripping it in the first place and having to do something like welding an allen socket onto the plug or taking a chisel and hammer to it to get it broken free.
TIm,
Great video, this will benefit many once it gets spread around!!

I have read many people post having to remove the drain plug using the hammer and chisel after stripping it and I have always wonder how that could even work and now after watching your video I think the chisel is only getting it to turn after the hammer blows via the chisel broke the "seal"!
 
The impact of the hammer blows help loosen whatever bond (corrosion usually) has formed on the threads between the plug and the diff/trans/xfr case/etc. it is in.

Rotating the plug/nut/whatever counterclockwise while banging on it helps as well.

Some heat helps break the bond as well. Sometimes one method works better than another or several methods together. An impact gun rules as well.
 
The impact of the hammer blows help loosen whatever bond (corrosion usually) has formed on the threads between the plug and the diff/trans/xfr case/etc. it is in.

Rotating the plug/nut/whatever counterclockwise while banging on it helps as well.

Some heat helps break the bond as well. Sometimes one method works better than another or several methods together. An impact gun rules as well.
My goto technique used to be heat before I learned the hammer technique. For now on, I'll try the hammer first. If that doesn't work, I'll go to the butane torch.
 
I cant say i had a drain plug on either diffs stick. I had the front filler plug missed up and had to drive a torx ( I think T55 not 100% on the size )head into one to get a messed one out. However, best to just cleaned them out of dirt. Use 10 mm 1/2 drive socket tap completely in tight with a 1/2 breaker bar. What is messing them up is people not cleaning the bolt good enough or improper tools. As all of mine fleet people originally didn't change the valve covers or seals leaking oil which mostly have the front diff covered in oils. The rear are easy with a 6 point socket and impact they come right out. Very good to mention tapping the plugs with hammer. Heat is also a good method for stuck bolts. I have had success with heat and crayon wax if threads bonded. If using heat melt crayon wax into the thread or head surfaces. Really depends on how seized things are and the condition of things as to best methods.
 

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