rpjtremblay
Junior Member
I have a 2013 Limited 4Runner with a rash of electrical issues that I’m at a loss for. Been looking at wiring diagrams/YouTube/this forum. Any help would be hugely appreciated.
Long Term Battery Parasitic Draw Issue:
1. Not my daily driver. Would need to boost every couple of weeks. New Yellow top Optimum battery and new alternator.
2. Had none of the issues below, before pulling fuses/testing for parasitic draw.
3. Tried the pulling Fuse method, and the check amperage across the Fuse Method. Same result. These two under the hood are my problems that I need to dive into. Not resolved yet.
1. ECU-B Fuse 10 amp
2. Radio #1 Fuse 10 amp
After pulling fuses testing for parasitic, following issues:
1. Traction Control light and ABS lights stay on after clearing codes
1. C1241 High or Low Power Supply Voltage - this stayed cleared after I manually cleared it. Likely from dead battery. No longer comes up.
2. C1380 - Stop Light Relay Malfunction - keeps coming back after clearing. No issue with brake lights
3. C1422 - Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor Zero Point High
2. Rear Hatch Will not Open. The switch in the back door will not unlock. Electrical issue.
3. Car will not lock - either from key fob or inside using lock switch. Unlocks fine.
4. Will randomly long-beep when I’m outside of car. Like washing it with key in my pocket and car off. I think the proximity sensors know I’m near.
5. Stock JBL Amp/no sound out of speakers anymore. I have stock JBL system, with upgrade T10-V2 with 360 camera system recently installed. Has been working great for past 2 months.
6. Air-conditioning intermittently wasn’t cooling on a 5 hours drive yesterday. For about an hour the fan and/or cold air wasn’t blocking. Working now.
7. During same trip my battery light flashed a couple of times. My head-unit tells me voltage and was jumping around a lot while driving - down to 12.5V ish. Hasn’t happened since, but have had a bouncy voltage gage in cluster before. Thought it was loose battery terminal connectors, but mine are tight.
8. My turn signals now fast-signal, as if a bulb is burned out, but all corners are working fine. This was intermittently happening before the fuse pulling.
In the past I’d get some wonky codes from dead batteries that would eventually just go away. Not happening now.
These all seem too random to be related, no?
I have a switch-pro with a bunch of accessories - but those are easy to isolate and keep off.
Picture for attention. Thanks in advance!
Long Term Battery Parasitic Draw Issue:
1. Not my daily driver. Would need to boost every couple of weeks. New Yellow top Optimum battery and new alternator.
2. Had none of the issues below, before pulling fuses/testing for parasitic draw.
3. Tried the pulling Fuse method, and the check amperage across the Fuse Method. Same result. These two under the hood are my problems that I need to dive into. Not resolved yet.
1. ECU-B Fuse 10 amp
2. Radio #1 Fuse 10 amp
After pulling fuses testing for parasitic, following issues:
1. Traction Control light and ABS lights stay on after clearing codes
1. C1241 High or Low Power Supply Voltage - this stayed cleared after I manually cleared it. Likely from dead battery. No longer comes up.
2. C1380 - Stop Light Relay Malfunction - keeps coming back after clearing. No issue with brake lights
3. C1422 - Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor Zero Point High
2. Rear Hatch Will not Open. The switch in the back door will not unlock. Electrical issue.
3. Car will not lock - either from key fob or inside using lock switch. Unlocks fine.
4. Will randomly long-beep when I’m outside of car. Like washing it with key in my pocket and car off. I think the proximity sensors know I’m near.
5. Stock JBL Amp/no sound out of speakers anymore. I have stock JBL system, with upgrade T10-V2 with 360 camera system recently installed. Has been working great for past 2 months.
6. Air-conditioning intermittently wasn’t cooling on a 5 hours drive yesterday. For about an hour the fan and/or cold air wasn’t blocking. Working now.
7. During same trip my battery light flashed a couple of times. My head-unit tells me voltage and was jumping around a lot while driving - down to 12.5V ish. Hasn’t happened since, but have had a bouncy voltage gage in cluster before. Thought it was loose battery terminal connectors, but mine are tight.
8. My turn signals now fast-signal, as if a bulb is burned out, but all corners are working fine. This was intermittently happening before the fuse pulling.
In the past I’d get some wonky codes from dead batteries that would eventually just go away. Not happening now.
These all seem too random to be related, no?
I have a switch-pro with a bunch of accessories - but those are easy to isolate and keep off.
Picture for attention. Thanks in advance!
