00 4runner Stalling at idle

T

tpham18nm

New member
This 4runner is driving me nuts! So the symptoms are:

1) Stalling at idle in "drive" at operating temperature.
2) idle fluctuating in park from 900-approx 550-600. Sometimes stalls!

The truck runs and drives just fine. Does not seem like it is misfiring or underpowered. Only problem is during its idle. The engine stalls after about 3-5 minutes of idling, sometimes sooner.

So far I've replaced the:
IACV
PCV valve
Spark plugs
Air filter

I cleaned:
MAF sensor
Throttle bodies

Everything looks as if it is in good shape. The IACV valve wasn't dirty and PCV valve rattled just fine. It has 213,000 miles.

No check engine light on. The most recent light was the P0441. I changed the gas cap and deleted the light, it hasn't came back in about 500 miles.

Any ideas?
 
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Iluvboost said:
Any way of checking tps voltage? Also maybe clean the tb.
Click to expand...

I already cleaned the throttal body. They looked fine when I opened it up, but cleaned it anyways to the metal when I replaced the IACV.

How would one check the throttal body sensor to see if it's working?

What should it read and what is the procedure!

Wouldn't the TB sensor throw an engine code at least?

Thanks for the reply!
 
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someone just had a similar problem and it turned out to be the timing off on just one side....maybe?
 
Timing belt was changed over 100k ago. I wasn't planning on changing it again until 230k. Could it be possible that the belt skipped a tooth or something! That's a big job. I figured that the things that i replaced would have taken care of it.

I think checking the small things would be better. I'll have my mechanic inspect the timing belt this weekend and keep you all posted.
 
tpham18nm said:
I already cleaned the throttal body. They looked fine when I opened it up, but cleaned it anyways to the metal when I replaced the IACV.

How would one check the throttal body sensor to see if it's working?

What should it read and what is the procedure!

Wouldn't the TB sensor throw an engine code at least?

Thanks for the reply!
Click to expand...

Not if its off a small amount. You can use a voltmeter if you don't have a scanner.
 
Iluvboost said:
Not if its off a small amount. You can use a voltmeter if you don't have a scanner.
Click to expand...

Okay, I can do that. The sensor should read 12volts?

I also re-cleaned the MAF sensor as that seems to be what other threads are saying.

The first time I cleaned it, I just sprayed MAF cleaner through the intake on both sides. I took the MAF out today and only one side of the sensor was cleaned :ybrick:, I shouldn't have been lazy. So I took the entire MAF sensor out and cleaned the other side of the amber orb as well as the wires on top. Hopefully this will do the trick.

I drove around for a while and let it idle for about 10 minutes until the cooling fan came on and about 2 minutes after the fan was on. It didn't stall. I will try the process again when it is hot outside.

When you inspect the TB sensor, where do you put the voltmeter? You do this with the key turned to the "on" position?

Edit: Found a good link to test the TB sensor.
http://www.enduringautomotive.com/tps/
 
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tpham18nm said:
Okay, I can do that. The sensor should read 12volts?

I also re-cleaned the MAF sensor as that seems to be what other threads are saying.

The first time I cleaned it, I just sprayed MAF cleaner through the intake on both sides. I took the MAF out today and only one side of the sensor was cleaned :ybrick:, I shouldn't have been lazy. So I took the entire MAF sensor out and cleaned the other side of the amber orb as well as the wires on top. Hopefully this will do the trick.

I drove around for a while and let it idle for about 10 minutes until the cooling fan came on and about 2 minutes after the fan was on. It didn't stall. I will try the process again when it is hot outside.

When you inspect the TB sensor, where do you put the voltmeter? You do this with the key turned to the "on" position?

Edit: Found a good link to test the TB sensor.
How to Test a Throttle Position Sensor | Enduring Automotive
Click to expand...

For what it's worth, I have the same issue. Mine is very intermittent and almost only ever happens when the AC is on, and when I am at less than 1/4 tank of gas. Also when I'm fully up to temp. It always starts right back up and rarely happens so I really haven't tried to kill myself over resolving it.

Question, do you also get slightly longer cold starts, and quick, stumbling warm starts?

Someone on one of these threads mentioned they fixed their issue by replacing their charcoal canister.
 
I wouldn't say that my warm starts are quick and stumbling, but it does first up fairly quickly when warm (usually within the first three cranks or so). Cold starts do take longer, but not out of the norm.

My 4runner does have a starting problem as well and I don't know if it is related. The truck sometimes does not crank when I turn the key. The starter does not click, but instead something (the starter maybe?) makes a whirling/buzzing sound. I am not sure if this is related to my stalling problem. I am thinking about just replacing the starter due to having over 200k on the truck. I need a reliable machine as i go camping often in the middle of no where. Could this be, in any way, related to the truck stalling?

I have not been able to check if the truck stalls after re-cleaning the MAF sensor. I will go for a long cruise after work and see if i can force it to stall again. If it doesn't stall, I can't say that it is 100% fixed; however, I may not take it to the mechanic on Friday. They said that they need the truck to act up in order to fix it. The problem is so intermediate that I think it'll just be a waste of 80$ for the diagnostic fee.

I will also double check to see if the TBS is within specifications.
 
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Replace the MAF - its cheap! I too had the "bouncing idle" and after replacing the MAF it went away - I'm at 250k miles....
 
tpham18nm said:
My 4runner does have a starting problem as well and I don't know if it is related. The truck sometimes does not crank when I turn the key. The starter does not click, but instead something (the starter maybe?) makes a whirling/buzzing sound.
Click to expand...

Sounds like the starter gear isn't engaging the flywheel. I believe you can just rebuild the starter to save some money, but I would probably just replace it since you were planning on it anyway. It's not something you want to take out twice either. The first replacement I got was bad so I had to deal with that nightmare twice in a day.

Kyngfish said:
Question, do you also get slightly longer cold starts, and quick, stumbling warm starts?

Someone on one of these threads mentioned they fixed their issue by replacing their charcoal canister.
Click to expand...

I had stumbling starts on both of the 4Runners I've had. I ended up replacing the fuel filter and it fixed the problem. I assumed the filter was clogging up and restricting flow. I poured some nasty brown gas out that seemed to confirm this. Thinking back, I believe most of them were warm starts, but I didn't correlate that at the time.
 
Check your grounds/terminals. My battery terminal clamps started slipping and it'll stall out my truck. It fluctuates and sometimes doesn't let me start it even. Not sure, but another easy thing to check off the list of options
 
jacobbert9 said:
Sounds like the starter gear isn't engaging the flywheel. I believe you can just rebuild the starter to save some money, but I would probably just replace it since you were planning on it anyway. It's not something you want to take out twice either. The first replacement I got was bad so I had to deal with that nightmare twice in a day.


I had stumbling starts on both of the 4Runners I've had. I ended up replacing the fuel filter and it fixed the problem. I assumed the filter was clogging up and restricting flow. I poured some nasty brown gas out that seemed to confirm this. Thinking back, I believe most of them were warm starts, but I didn't correlate that at the time.
Click to expand...

Just changed out the starter. One of the contacts were worn more than half way, I am glad that I changed the part. I replaced the whole unit, took me about 5 hours to do the job.

Engine has not stalled after cleaning the MAF sensor. I ran around town and let it idle for about 3 cycles of the cooling fan turning on and off with and without the AC running.
 
volkinator said:
Check your grounds/terminals. My battery terminal clamps started slipping and it'll stall out my truck. It fluctuates and sometimes doesn't let me start it even. Not sure, but another easy thing to check off the list of options
Click to expand...

Did this already. New battery and new terminals!
 
So, cleaning the MAF sensor did absolutely nothing. Engine still stalls. However, I feel like the engine is more likely to stall when the cooling fan turns on. This seems to drop the RPMs a bit lower (to about the 500 mark) causing it to stall. If I hit the gas when I feel the engine about to die, it perks back up.

I did everything the forums said to:

IACV
PCV
MAF
Spark Plugs
Battery
Battery Terminal

Now this is getting frustrating. :mad:

The air intake hose does have a crack towards the TB. But I taped it up, I doubt any air could get through the tape. That doesn't seem possible.
 
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