'01 4WD SR5 Rear Wheel Bearing Shot

[Stoflos]

I have a 2001 4Runner 4WD SR5 110,000 miles. Just about the time my front brakes need to be serviced i started getting a grinding/intermitent vibrating problem that happened randomly. Vibrations were transmitted through the floor boards and felt like it was up front. I assumed it was my something messed up with the rotors and it would get worked out with the brake job. Replaced the pads and rotors up front but still had the problem. A tech at a repair shop (friend of a friend) and the dealer both deduced my issue was a result of a shot left rear wheel bearing and both recommended it be replaced.

Anyone familiar with this kind of service? The dealer wants to ring me up for $600 per side. I found replacement bearings for $50! What's up with the $600? The friend of a friend will do the job at a hugely discounted labor rate if i supply the parts.

Does anyone know if i can get a bearing "kit" for a rear axle on my truck? I don't want the friend of a friend to open it up and found out he needs seals or gaskets, etc and all i've given him is a bearing. Also I've seen some auto part sites that specify the need for additonal components when buying a new bearing (like collars, ABS rotor) but this advice is not consistent from site to site.

If anyone can help with a parts list or a place to find a "kit" it would be appreciated. I don't care if i have extra parts. I've heard its easier to just get an "axle assembly". Does anyone know about that?

My goal is to fix my problem and keep costs low.

Thanks in advance.

Mark

 

[shootmymime]

this is what i came up with

On models with serviceable wheel bearings, use a Lithium Multipurpose Grease.


REMOVAL, PACKING, AND INSTALLATION
2 Wheel Drive (2WD) Vehicles
Loosen the wheel lugnuts.
Raise and safely support the vehicle on safety stands.
Remove the wheels.
Remove the brake caliper from its mount. Use stiff wire to suspend it out of the way; do not loosen the brake hose at the caliper. Remove the brake pads.
Remove the grease cap. Remove the cotter pin and locknut. Use a socket of the correct size to loosen and remove the axle nut.
Remove the hub and brake disc together with the outer bearing and thrust washer. Use your thumbs to keep the pieces inside the hub as the unit is removed. Be careful not to drop the outer bearing.

Fig. 1: Use your thumbs to keep the parts inside the hub as the unit is removed

Fig. 2: Exploded view of the 2WD front wheel bearing components

Fig. 3: These areas should be cleaned and regreased during front wheel bearing maintenance

Fig. 4: Put a large dab of grease into the palm of your hand, then move the bearing in a sliding motion through the grease

Fig. 5: Use a suitable driver to install the grease seal

Use a small prying tool to remove the inner bearing seal. Once the seal is out, remove the bearing from the hub.
Place all both bearings and all the nuts, caps, etc., into a wide container of cleaning solvent. Cleanliness is essential to wheel bearing maintenance. Use a soft bristle brush to clean every bit of grease from every component. Place each cleaned component on a clean, lint-free cloth and allow them to air dry.
Inspect the bearings for pitting, flat spots, rust, and rough areas. Check the races (inner surfaces of the hub) for the same conditions. If any damage is seen, the components must be replaced. As a general rule, if either a bearing or race is damaged, the matching part that contacts it should also be replaced. Replacement bearings, seals and other required parts can be bought at an auto parts store. The old parts that are to be replaced should be taken along to be compared with the replacement part to insure a perfect match.
To pack:

Pack the wheel bearings with grease. There are special devices made for the specific purpose of greasing bearings, but if one is not available, pack the wheel bearings by hand. Put a large dab of grease in the palm of your hand and push the bearing through it with a sliding motion. The grease must be forced through the side of the bearing and in between each roller. Continue until the grease begins to ooze out the other side and through the gaps between the rollers; the bearing must be completely packed with grease.
Coat the inside of the hub and cap with grease, but do not pack it solid. Remember that the spindle (axle) has to pass through the center.
To install:

Clean the spindle thoroughly and inspect it for any sign of damage. Coat it with a very light layer of bearing grease.
Install the inner bearing into the race. Use a seal driver of the correct diameter to install a NEW grease seal over the bearing. Reusing the old seal may cost more money than it saves; if the grease leaks out and the bearing fails, the wheel may seize while in motion.
Place the hub and disc onto the spindle. Install the outer bearing and the flat thrust washer.
Install the locknut and use a torque wrench to adjust the nut to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
Turn the hub in each direction several times to seat and snug the bearing. Loosen the locknut until it can be turned by hand without the wrench. Don't loosen it any more than necessary to be finger-loose. (Loosening the nut takes the pre-tension off the bearing.)
Install the locknut, cotter pin and grease cap. Make certain the cap is not crooked or loose.
Install the brake pads and caliper.
Install the wheel and lugnuts (hand-tight). Lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the lugnuts.

 

[toytech76]

That is not applicable to the rear of his as his is a sealed bearing. No wheel bearings on the 96 and up trucks and 4runners are packable. Do yourself a favor and at least buy toyota seals. Get a bearing, 2 collars, 1 inner seal part # 90310-50006 and 1 outer seal. The abs ring can be pressed off and reused. Just make sure you take note of where the ring sits because if you put it back on in the wrong spot, you will have a major leak since 1 collar butts to it that the inner seal rides on. Ive done a million of these things and know you shouldnt get anything less than what I wrote. It would also be wise to replace the inner seal on the other side with the above part # to prevent leaks as these trucks are prone to it.

 

[jeremy9allen]

Auto parts stores can get you a complete axle rebuild kit.

It would include any necessary bearings, races, crush sleeve. It may not include seals.

They may have quoted you for a rebuild.

 

[004Gunner]

Definitely listen to ToyTech. Spend the money to do it right and get the parts from a Toyota dealership. I just paid a machine shop to replace my driver side rear with parts and labor coming to $225. I removed the rear brakes and pulled the axle out myself, the machine shop ordered the parts for me and had it done within a day. I just had to put a new inner seal in and throw it back together.

 

[Stoflos]

Great responses guys. Thanks a lot. Can someone post an exploded isometric drawing of the rear end of an '01 4wd sr5? i tried to find them but keep stumbling on front end isometrics. i would like to see exactly what parts you guys are talking about.

thanks again

 

[004Gunner]

Here you go

 

[Stoflos]

004Gunner . . . nice! Thanks.

 

[LWN]

What's required to replace the inner axle seal on a similar model - 98 4-runner 4x4? I'm replacing my rear brakes tomorrow and I'm getting some seepage around the rear axle seals, so I thought I'd replace the outer axle seals, since it looks like a simple job once you're doing the brakes anyway.

But what about the inner axle seal - do you get to that from the center via the differential cover, or can you pull it out of the axle tube once the outer seal is removed?

 

[004Gunner]

The outer seal is not easy to replace and requires a press to do the job properly. The inner axle seal can be done by yourself and is simple to replace. You need something that will allow you to seat the seal properly in the axle housing though. If you have the wheel off, the e-brake disconnected, and the brake line disconnected, all you have to do is remove the 4 nuts on the backing plate to pull the axle assembly out. it's a straight shot to the inner seal from there.

 

[shawnstcyr]

A nice block of wood or a socket of equivalent size makes a wonderful tool for seating the seal. Replaced my inner seal in under 1 hour in my drive way. Don't forget to turn your drum (machine it) and bleed your brake line when you are through.

 

[LWN]

Thanks for the advice guys. Now I'm not sure what to do though. The seepage I'm getting is between the outer seal and the axle. I know that's got to be done with a press. But would replacing the inner seal help stop that leak?

It's not clear from the schematic what the inner seal seals against. It seems that the inner seal seals the axle housing to the outer edge of the bearing - if that's the case, then I know replacing it won't help my leak...

 

[shawnstcyr]

Thanks for the advice guys. Now I'm not sure what to do though. The seepage I'm getting is between the outer seal and the axle. I know that's got to be done with a press. But would replacing the inner seal help stop that leak?

It's not clear from the schematic what the inner seal seals against. It seems that the inner seal seals the axle housing to the outer edge of the bearing - if that's the case, then I know replacing it won't help my leak...

Your inner seal seals in two places. It seals around the axle shaft for one. It also seals on it's outer edge . This portion seals the rear end housing. I just replaced my inner, mainly because I no longer have access to a press. You have to remove the bearing and the ABS sensor gear to replace the outer seal. If you are going to do all that, then you might as well replace the bearing. Replacing my inner seal completely stopped my leak. Your outer seal from what I could tell, mainly protects the bearing. It's the inner seal that does the job of keeping the differential oil in the rear end. As these wear they will leak between the seal and the axle.

 

[LWN]

Awesome - thank you Shawnstcyr. That's exactly what I was trying to figure out. I don't have easy access to a press either and didn't really want to pull it all apart just to find that the inner wouldn't solve the problem.

Thanks again.

 

[shawnstcyr]

Awesome - thank you Shawnstcyr. That's exactly what I was trying to figure out. I don't have easy access to a press either and didn't really want to pull it all apart just to find that the inner wouldn't solve the problem.

Thanks again.

No problem. Good luck. Fele free to ask more questions if need be on other issues.