02 Rear Axle Bearings - cost? time?

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bigtimeweb

New member
So....

Love my new truck, but it had a grinding noise and I brought it to the stealership this morning. He just called said the rear axle seals and bearings....

Quoted me SEVEN hours of labor + parts?!

Is it really that big of a job? 1123.29 total parts and labor?! OMFG! I knew I shouldn't have dropped the damn warranty offer!

I wanted to get opinions from you guys before I get raped. :naughty:
 
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bigtimeweb said:
So....

Love my new truck, but it had a grinding noise and I brought it to the stealership this morning. He just called said the rear axle seals and bearings....

Quoted me SEVEN hours of labor + parts?!

Is it really that big of a job? 1123.29 total parts and labor?! OMFG! I knew I shouldn't have dropped the damn warranty offer!

I wanted to get opinions from you guys before I get raped. :naughty:
Click to expand...

I have absolutely no experience doing that fix, but my impression was that it wasn't nearly that intense. Hopefully others will chime in pretty soon, but I am hoping that it's not that bad...
 
HEY I actually have recent experience with this!!!

to save time and money I brought the axles in, there very easy to take off.

Anyways for parts..

Bearings 90.38 each [one per axle side] 180.00
Axle Seals 8.75 each [one per axle side] 17.50
O-ring 6.02 each [one per axle side] 12.04
Retainer Ring 22.05 each [2 per axle side] 88.20
ABS rings 44.00 each I believe. [1 per axle side] 88.00

Labor was 120$ a side..

Total came out to.. 625$.00 without tax.

Everyone on here said to go with toyota bearings so I did and knowing what I know now, Its not even worth buying a kit off the internet because you still need to take it to toyota, and there still going to cut the rings off and most kits don't come with all the rings..

Toyota doesn't even try to save the abs rings or the retainer rings they simply cut them off. And I wouldn't bother trying to take the axles to another shop. I went to 5 or 6 before I gave up. And went to toyota..

DO NOT try to do it yourself. With the abs rings its pretty much impossible.

I guess the labor was 120 a side because I took the axles in myself. Which again is VERY easy..

there are 4 14mm bolts that hold them in on the back side of the brake drum. Remove the nuts from there and disconnect the emergency brake and the brake line going to the drums and pull.. Might want to take your tire off first.

However if I were you I would just replace the one that is bad.. I replaced mine and they weren't even bad.. Seals were, but the bearings were fine, I know because my noise is STILL there.
 
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Spencer said:
However if I were you I would just replace the one that is bad.. I replaced mine and they weren't even bad.. Seals were, but the bearings were fine, I know because my noise is STILL there.
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Spencer fixing the seals/bearings didn't stop your grinding noise?

Did you check spindle bushings?

This is my big worry - they are quoting my asstons of money and .... well is is gonna fix it?!

Thanks for your numbers - Its not something I want to tackle myself by any means, it just seems insanely expensive!!
 
I did have a bad seal for sure, however the bearings were a wring self
diagnosis. I started off looking at cheap ones thinking it wouldn't cot much to replace. Then ending up going with toyota some how or another.

Jack up a tire and turn it, if you hear the grinding then it's a bad bearing. If Toyota says it's a bad bearing then it probably is. Mine didn't grind at low speeds, and it's more of a chirp chirp and I basicly ruled out everything else. But it's still there, as for the spindles how do u check that?
 
Spencer they are in the hub assembly. Its my understanding that while it used to be a not so brilliantly thought out bushing - I believe they moved to a bearing for it. I was jsut reading about it the other day as a culprit for a lot of peoples noise. Let me dig through my saved bookmarks see if I can find it for you. Might be at home though, so may have to wait till tonight ;)
 
bigtimeweb said:
He also says the seals have leaked fluid into the rear drums and they need to be replaced...for another $502.11

:(
Click to expand...

Please run away from that dealership....

You don't replace the whole drum, just the pads. And I don't even buy that. A little brake cleaner seemed to remove all the oil from mine.
 
took mine in, ended up being $407 Parts+ Labor, i could have done it cheaper but i dont have a garage and i needed it done. overall, very good shop and i trust em, i hope haha
 
bigtimeweb said:
Is it really that big of a job? 1123.29 total parts and labor?! OMFG! I knew I shouldn't have dropped the damn warranty offer!
Click to expand...

What shop is this? If you are near the galleria area, look into Teskes Auto. I've had them work on my 4R before and they did an excellent job and didn't overcharge...

www.teskesauto.com
2612 Joanel Street
Houston, TX 77027-5302
(713) 622-5800
 
JeremyH said:
What shop is this? If you are near the galleria area, look into Teskes Auto. I've had them work on my 4R before and they did an excellent job and didn't overcharge...

www.teskesauto.com
2612 Joanel Street
Houston, TX 77027-5302
(713) 622-5800
Click to expand...

Thanks Jeremy!

I actually work in the Galleria and live near Rice U, so that's very convenient for me!

Its Sterling McCall.... !! I dont know why I go back to them cause they did a screw job on my 2nd gen, but I have a phobia of non certified techs touching my cars after my Jetta fell apart...about 10 lifetimes ago HAHA!
 
Yeah, I work right off Richmond and Wesleyan...so it was easy for me to drop off my ride and then walk to work.

You'll like Teske...they always have some cool rides that they are working on...everything from huge rigs to go fast cars and old school rides.
 
Yup! I thinkI know right where that is!

Another thing they said needed to be done is the front brakes. Said the shims are missing?! (what is that? The little plate that goes with the pad??)
 
If you have a press is a cake job, but since we all have those lying aroung, you have to take it to someone to press them out. I just replaced mine about 3 month ago. Broke the rear down because it was leaking at the seal. lo and behold my bearings were shot along with the excitor ring.

As spencer said you are just going to cut off the rings anyway, DON'T TRY TO PRESS THEM OUT!!!, all you will do is bend your axle. A buddy of mine actually tried this, hence the warning. If you find a good shop they can press your axle for about $60.00 per. Its a really straight forward process.

As for the brakes Spencer is right again, brake cleaner will clean the pads just fine. I did it to mine and have not had a problem. I you really want new brake pads they are not that expensive maybe 20 bucks per.

Note: drain the pumpkin after you are done, some of the balls in the bearing got their stablizer belts chew off and it all ended up in the pumpkin.
 
I did the drivers side of my '97.
Again, straightforeward to remove the axle. Any ape can do it.

I got everything parts wise from the dealer, but if memory serves, Marlin Crawler has a better inner double lip seal to replace the OEM. So that is the only non OEM part I got.
Of course, I could be remembering a different double seal from some other job...damn sucks getting old. :jump:

Anyway,
went to a local machine shop to cut the old parts off, and press the new ones on. $50 bucks.

Just be careful when you slide the axle back in that you don't touch the new inner seal with the shaft! It'l mess it up and ruin all the hard work you just did!

Good luck and go for it!
 
Hi 80yota4x4

Unfortunately I bent over for the dealership already, but talked them down a few hundred dollars because of the help here. Picked it up on my way home from work tonight .... and now there's a noticeable wobble at high speeds :redbrick:

Grinding noise is definitely gone though!
 
JeremyH said:
Yeah, I work right off Richmond and Wesleyan...so it was easy for me to drop off my ride and then walk to work.

You'll like Teske...they always have some cool rides that they are working on...everything from huge rigs to go fast cars and old school rides.
Click to expand...
I have the same problem and I called Teske Auto.
He said that he is retiring and his closing down his shop (Dec. 20, 2013)
He recommended me to Midas nearby which they quoted me $400 per side (labor only)
I told him, fxxk off
 
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