'03 A/T servicing

[Mike the Wino]

Hi all--

New to this forum and have a question regarding servicing my transmission. I have a 2003 V6 with 4 speed A/T.

I saw the Sticky for "Sealed Transmission Fluid Level Servicing" but this doesn't appear to apply in my case, as my vehicle has a trans fluid dipstick.

I also did as good as a search on the forum as I could but haven't found what I was looking for, so if the answer is here somewhere, please point me to it.

My car has approx 60k miles and the trans fluid has a very slight burnt smell and is not as bright red as it should be. I'd like to change the fluid and filter. I checked with the local AAA rated Japanese auto shops, and they all want about $180 to do a complete flush and fill, or over $450 to change the fluid and filter.

I've done numerous transmission services over the years, albeit quite some time ago. This doesn't look that tough to me. Plenty of room, and it looks like I should be able to refill it through the dipstick tube. Am I missing something here? Is there some technical reason a half decent garage floor mechanic like me shouldn't do this service on my own?

Any "Sticky's" for my particular application? Any other suggestions?

Much appreciated! Mike the Wino

 

[CJ3Flyr]

It should be an easy DIY operation. Unlike 'old school' stuff you do need to use the correct type of fluid, Toyota Type IV or equivalent.


:cheers:

 

[Mike the Wino]

Thanks, Chris.

Does it need to be level, and is there a fluid temp requirement like on the '04's and on?

Other than the Genuine Toyota Service Manuals, is there another option out there for the DIYer? I can't find anything like a Chilton's or Hayne's for the 2003.

Mike the Wino

 

[Kmvreter]

Check the thread I just bumped.

 

[Mike the Wino]

Thanks Kmvreter...

Sounds like no big deal, just as Chris stated. Think I'll do a couple/three drain & fills, then get a new filter and drop the pan. Just want to make sure there's no gunk in the pan and then I'll go ahead and replace the filter.

Couldn't find any DIY's in the forum for this particular procedure for the 2003.......maybe I'm not using the right search syntax??

 

[Kmvreter]

Not sure I understand.
Why not drop the pan after the first drain, clean the bottom of the pan, clean (or replace) the filter/screen, refit the pan and refill. Then do 2 more drain & refills with some miles between them? This also saves you throwing away barely used fluid.

(ps. The searches seem to be cut short; I think they are limited with server space. But that is a whole other topic.)

 

[Mike the Wino]

Kmvreter, you've got a good point, but let me explain my thought process and see what you think.

I figured If I changed the filter first and then did a couple/few drain & fills, I might have some crappy fluid running through a new filter. If I change the filter after I've done a couple drain & fills, I'll know I'm starting out as fresh as possible.

Of course, some would argue that's what the filter is for. So am I just being anal?

My owners manual says the trans fluid capacity for a drain and refill is only (up to) 2 qts. Sacrificing up to 6 qts seems like cheap insurance to get a clean filter/fluid combination.

On a slightly different note, if this filter change is as simple as it appears, why in the world do the shops all get $450 to do it?

 

[Kmvreter]

... So am I just being anal?

My owners manual says the trans fluid capacity for a drain and refill is only (up to) 2 qts. Sacrificing up to 6 qts seems like cheap insurance to get a clean filter/fluid combination.

On a slightly different note, if this filter change is as simple as it appears, why in the world do the shops all get $450 to do it?

That would be 2 or 3 litres with the vehicle flat. I jack the front up and get 5 litres out by waiting for over 10 min. on the slow tricle after the initial drain. This way you would be sacrificing more.
I'm no expert, but I would do the initial drain of 2-3 litres, clean it all up, and then do the fluid rotations. The substantial amount of fine particles from wear are already caught in the filter or settled in the bottom of the pan. Cycling clean fluid and then draining doesn't make sense to me.
(As a side note, I'm doing the 5 litres every year to keep things partially fresh on a rotation.)

As for the high quotes, don't get me started. Sometimes they are fair, like on major repairs. Other times, like this, is why I call them stealerships. Best example is the stealer price for parts and labour to do the cabin air filter. Give me a break! They should do this at a reduced rate (discount parts price only) as a courtesy to win over and retain customers.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Here's another alternative that I have used forever with great results... Full text is in the sticky at the top of "Maint"

"2) Loaded question... I will use 12-13 qts. 4-5 quarts should cover a simple drain and fill, the regular owners manual has the exact number. I will drain and fill, pull the return fluid cooling line at the radiator, start the vehicle and pump out old fluid. I'll shut it off as it begins to gurgle and the flow decreases at the coolant line. I'll then refill and repeat the procedure until clean, fresh fluid is squirting out the hose. I'll button it all up and do the final fill."

If I were going to drop the pan, replace the filter etc I would definately finish up as I have outlined above.


:cheers:

 

[Mike the Wino]

Thanks guys!

After mulling all this over, I'm gonna go with doing the filter first, and then cycle the fluids 'till it's pretty.

Appreciate all the help! I really didn't think things had changed that much since I last did this kind of thing for a living. Now, the sealed transmissions, like on the later models, that might be a different story. But if the pan and filter are accessible, and there's a dipstick tube, how tough can it be?

You know what's weird though? Even AllData (www.alldatadiy.com), which is one of the leading providers of OEM automotive repair information to the automotive industry and DIYers, and is available FREE in many public library systems, doesn't have any information (other than parts prices and shop labor hours) for servicing the transmission on a 2003 4Runner V6. It's got tons of other repair and maintenance procedures, but not for servicing the tranny. Very strange.

Mike the Wino

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Thanks guys!

After mulling all this over, I'm gonna go with doing the filter first, and then cycle the fluids 'till it's pretty.

Appreciate all the help! I really didn't think things had changed that much since I last did this kind of thing for a living. Now, the sealed transmissions, like on the later models, that might be a different story. But if the pan and filter are accessible, and there's a dipstick tube, how tough can it be?

Mike the Wino

Mike, make you a deal:lmao: I'll post a pic of which line to pull for flushing (as it is on my '07 V6) if you take a few pics and make a couple of notes about taking the pan off

:cheers:

 

[Mike the Wino]

Uh oh. Now you're scaring me. I coulda sworn, albeit with a very cursory look-see, that the pan looked totally accessible. Now I'm gonna have to go REALLY look at it, especially before I go buy parts and fluid!

Cheers!

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Uh oh. Now you're scaring me. I coulda sworn, albeit with a very cursory look-see, that the pan looked totally accessible. Now I'm gonna have to go REALLY look at it, especially before I go buy parts and fluid!

Cheers!

I have looked at my '07 and I agree with your original assessment, it's no different than a traditional 'old school' fluid change. On my '07 the pan looks easy to remove and re-install.

I was suggesting some pics for other folks to have a look at As the fleet of '03 and '04's age were going to see a lot more fluid changes coming up and most who read here have some DIY in their gene's :bigok: I don't think this has been totally beat to death yet because most of the fleet doesn't have enough miles yet. A few pics and a hearty "that was easy" would probably be welcome. That was my point. I think many will have interest in this thread. I wasn't trying to scare you.

:cheers:

 

[Mike the Wino]

I figured you was funnin' me , though I played along anyway. I really had taken a good look underneath, and everything is really easy to get to. Consider the pictures taken!

So, one other question: Do I have to get the T-IV transmission fluid from Toyota (@$5.35/qt), or is there another alternative? I've read that Mobil ATF 3309 is an equivalent, but haven't proved that out, nor priced it yet.

Mike the Wino

 

[CJ3Flyr]

As promised here are the pictures... These are for pulling the return from the transmission cooler. There's one step that you must do PRIOR to draining/removing the pan.

This allows you to install the new filter, add 3-4 quarts of new fluid then begin to "flush" the remainder of the old fluid out as outlined here: "I will use 12-13 qts. 4-5 quarts should cover a simple drain and fill, the regular owners manual has the exact number. I will drain and fill, pull the return fluid cooling line at [from] the radiator, start the vehicle and pump out old fluid. I'll shut it off as it begins to gurgle and the flow decreases at the coolant line. I'll then refill and repeat the procedure until clean, fresh fluid is squirting out the hose. I'll button it all up and do the final fill."


This picture is for general orientation. Looking up (somewhat off-center to the passenger-side) with the front skid removed.

Next find your trans cooling lines. You have the 4sp but I expect it's very similar. Prior to draining/removing the pan determine/confirm which line is the return line. Do this by setting the brake, chocking the wheels and putting the T4R in 'R'.

awais:I say 'R' because if the brake doesn't hold or a chock slipd the car doesn't run you over.) Then lay down and taking care not to tangle with pullies or the fan touch the lines. You will be able to feel a temp difference between the two. You want the cool one...

Next shut it off. Follow the line back to near the crossmember. As illustrated this is where you want to pull the line. (I suggested you 'confirm' which is the return [cool] line because your 4sp may not be the same as my 5sp.) My pic is correct for my '07 5speed.

I drape the hose down to the drain pan, slip a box wrench over the end of the line for weight so it doesn't flop around like a fire hose in a cartoon and then start it up :bigok: No appreciable amount of fluid will come out of the metal line that runs back to the transmission.

Hope this helps,
:cheers:

 

[Mike the Wino]

Thanks Chris! Good stuff.

You think I should start a new thread when I post my DIY step-by-step and pictures, or just add them to this one?

Mike the Wino

 

[CJ3Flyr]

I don't know, that's a tough call. This board is great but the search engine is squirrely.

I would be tempted to do a new one and call 'tranmission fluid and filter change or something...' to make it more searchable. Then I'd go to the transmission sticky and reply with a "here's a DIY filter change" and the link to your new thread...

Other than fluid fill and fluid types there's very little difference between the sealed ones and yours.

That's just my thoughts...

:cheers:

 

[Mike the Wino]

I'm in the middle of writing up the DIY as per above, and I have a question about how to read the transmission dipstick on my '03. It ain't obvious! There's several notches on the dipstick itself, but no other markings indicating what's a quart low, full, or high. Can't find anything in my owners manual, either.

Anyone know for sure?

Mike the Wino

 

[CJ3Flyr]

I'm in the middle of writing up the DIY as per above, and I have a question about how to read the transmission dipstick on my '03. It ain't obvious! There's several notches on the dipstick itself, but no other markings indicating what's a quart low, full, or high. Can't find anything in my owners manual, either.

Anyone know for sure?

Mike the Wino

You should have three notches... Anywhere between the lowest two when the trans is cold anywhere between the upper two when it's warm. That's based on a pic from an '03 Toyota Service Manual.

I would start it and move the shifter to R and D until positve gear engagement then back to P or N for the fluid level check.

:cheers:

 

[Mike the Wino]

Thanks again, Chris. The new DIY is posted here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=42071