03 V8 questions

YZThumper

New member
Hola,

First post here (great site, BTW.)

I'm picking up a 03 V8 Limited + Nav & Air Suspenders this weekend and I just have a couple of questions.

1. I know everyone has an opinion of oil change intervals, but what does the manual say for mileage for the first oil change on the V8?

2. Does the V8 use a timing belt, or chain? (V6 has chain driven cams, but I cannot find info on the 8.)

Thanks for your help...
-Thump
 
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YZThumper,

Welcome to the forum...hope you find it informative. Congrats on your getting a nice 4runner!

First oil change is no different than most other cars...5000 miles if "severe" or 7500 if not. For me, i changed mine at 3500 miles, then again at 5000, then every 5000 miles after that.

As for the timing belt vs. chain, try the SEARCH engine. I believe that it is a BELT for the V8 and chain for V6. Maybe Peter can help out.

Hope this helps.
 
The V8 has a timing belt. I am 99% sure the V6 is a timing chain. My timing belt on the older 3.4 V6 is to be changed at 90,000 miles. I would suspect the V8 timing belt is the same interval.

Welcome to the forum, if you can post a picture of your 4Runner in the Gallery section.

(Oh, yes almost all manufacters now say to change the oil at 7,500 for normal and 5,000 for serere. If you use synthetic do not go past the 7,500 miles during your warranty. I personally go with 3,000 mile oil changes or 5,000 on synthetic oil. I would go with what is comfortable for you to live with.)
 
I went through that recently, some advice,

Before you do anything just check the oil level of the factory filled car, the design of the dipstick is very bad, makes it very difficult to get a good reading espesially if you are not sure where is the correct level. So having a good baseline reading makes sense.

I changed my oil at 1800 miles, but it was a disaster, dealer put cheap Kendall 5W-30 oil and the baseline 90915-YZZB5 filter. So much for going to the authorized Toyota dealer.

Since I cannot stand the idea of the Kendall in my engine, I am going to replace the oil again at about 2800 miles with ExxonMobil 5W-30 dino oil 5W-30 and ask the dealer to use the more expensive and better Lexus filter 90915-20004.

Once I have 5000 miles I plan to start using the top of the line Mobil 1 0W-40 and the Lexus filter, both changed every 5000 miles.

Hope this helps


2003 Sport V8
 
Welcome aboard!

1: dump the first oil in your engine after 500/1000 miles... and then after that , follow the 3750 miles if you drive alot. You can use synthetic but personally I don't touch synthetic (can be found in other threads so no need to beat it here!). You can follow the mfg's standard of something like never but i'd say anything around 5000 or less is good :)

2: v8 uses belt and v6's use the chain ...

baby your 4runner!!
 
Well

the 2003 mannual talks about 7500 to 5000 miles oil change intervals.

I don't know how this would be possible if dino oil is used.

Cheers
 
A lot of so called experts say you can go 7,500 miles between oil changes. Oils are getting better and should not break down. Car manufacters go with 7,500 to lower the cost of maintenance, at least on paper. Consumer Reports and Two Car Guys recommend 5,000 miles instead of 3,000 miles due to the better oil. Heck, I still stick to 3,000 miles.

As far as Kendall, I wonder if oil is all that drastically different. Consumer Reports say they are all about the same. I had a bad experience with Quaker State oil 25 years ago and I have stuck with Castrol GTX ever since. I remember Kendall having the TV ad about putting gold in the engine and it showed no wear, don't you believe the ad?:rolleyes:
 
Regular engine oil should last 7500 miles without a problem. The MAIN reason you change your oil is to get rid of oil/engine debris that builds up in your engine. This buildup is seen in BOTH regular and synthetic oil. Therefore, as Peter said, i would still follow 7500 mile interval for synthetic...maybe as high as 10,000 mile, but certainly not longer than that.
 
Some what off subject

I love it when these threads start having a life of their own.

The problem I have of going past 7,500 miles on a sythetic oil is you are going past the manufacters recommendation. If their ever is a problem they (Toyota) may say your warranty is now void. Like they did with the sludge problem with the 3.0 V6 engine.

I am also not a big fan of extended oil drains. If you want to do extended oil drains, do it after the warranty period. Just my 2 cents worth.:D
 
I agree,

and from reading the manual it seems that to be safe with Toyota we would have to change oil at least every 5000 miles, the 7500 miles interval might be difficult to justify as it only applies to "non severe" use, yea right.
 
Thanks for the replies, guys. I appreciate it. Here is an interesting article on synthetics (split between two posts because of length) I am NOT associated in any way with any company in the oil industry...just want to do right by my vehicle and take an interest in sharing technical knowledge.



Making Sense of Synthetic Lubricants
By: Don Stevens <mailto:P[email protected]>

All of us have seen countless ads telling us to change our engine oil every 3000 miles. Some of us have watched the infomercials showing cars driving on the racetrack with allegedly no oil or engines running on a stand while the host pours sand and gravel over an exposed valve train. Virtually all of the lube shops have some kind of magic additive that they will say you need. What are we to believe? Or more relevant, what is right for you? In becoming an Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants dealer in 1998 I have done a great deal of research on all kinds of lubricants and additives and in this article I will share the facts about synthetic oils, petroleum based oils, and additives so that you can make an informed decision about what is right for your cars.

Oil Classifications

There are two systems for oil classification. The SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) viscosity grade and the API (American Petroleum Institute) classification that designates the type of engines for which the oil was designed. The SAE viscosity grade is known as the "W" number when classifying oils. Most oils on the shelf today are multi-viscosity such as 10W30 or 20W50. In general, the lower the first number, the better the oil will perform in extremely cold conditions. Conversely, the higher the second number the better the oil will protect at higher temperatures. If you were driving to Minnesota in the winter you would want the lowest number you could find like a 0W30. In our Florida climate however, a 10W40 or a 20W50 would be a better choice. The API designation is typically an "S" designation for gasoline engines and a "C" designation for diesel engines. Most of today’s oils carry an SH,CF or SJ,CF designation signifying that they are suitable for use in all gasoline or diesel automotive applications. Those of you with diesel trucks or motor homes should look for an API CG-4 rated oil. Which brand you buy is largely a matter of preference. Consumer Reports (6/97) found very few differences between major brands of oil and all with the above SAE and API designations performed fine in normal applications.

Synthetic vs. Petroleum Based Oils

Synthetic oils were originally developed more than 50 years ago and became widely used in jet engines. Less than -120
 
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--continued

Off The Shelf Additives

There are countless over the counter oil additives on the market, as there have been for a number of years. In recent years a number of companies have appeared on the scene with huge national television advertising campaigns, racecar sponsorship, and more, all designed to make the consumer believe that the products really work and you are doing yourself a favor by adding these to your car. The fact is that these products are not necessary, do very little to help your engine, and in many cases may actually do more harm than good. The major car companies do not endorse any of these products and in fact your owner’s manual will undoubtedly advise you to avoid them.

Consumers Reports did a test (10/98) in an attempt to verify, or rebuke, one company’s ad which claimed that their product "bonded" to the engines moving parts forming a protective barrier against wear. The ad claimed that their test car ran all over Southern California, in stop and go traffic, with the air on, for 4 hours and 40 minutes. The ad also claimed that the only reason the driver stopped was to get something to eat. Pretty unbelievable. In an attempt to prove or disprove the viability of the ad, Consumer Reports tested two Chevrolet Caprices, both with identical zero time rebuilt V6 engines. Both cars were broken in with normal petroleum oil per the manufacturer’s recommendations. The oil and filter were then changed with one of the cars receiving the prescribed dose of this magic additive. Both cars were then driven for about 100 miles, allegedly long enough for this magical bonding to occur, and the oil subsequently drained. Both were then driven again, now with empty crankcases, in normal traffic to see how long they would last. Interestingly both engines failed, almost simultaneously, after about 14 minutes of driving thus proving the claims of the additive manufacturer to be nonsense. Consumer Reports notified the FTC of the test and their results and the manufacturer was subsequently forced to stop running the ad.

There are some over the counter additives that contain Teflon or PTFE. Once again the ads claim that the Teflon bonds to the internal working parts of the engine forming a slippery surface (like your Teflon frying pan) and therefore reducing wear. Fundamental laws of Physics prove that such claims are impossible, as the temperatures in internal combustion engines (200
 
To beat this dead horse, I just dropped off my V8 runner for its first oil change at 3050 miles. I'm switching to Mobil 1 and plan to do a 3000-5000 mile interval, not stressing about the exact mileage so long as it doesn't go over 5000.

My driving is probably 60% highway vs 40% city and small roads. Most of my trips are over 10 miles.
 
peter78:
I had Quaker State gum up an Isuzu engine. Ruined it! Never used it again in any of my engines. :50cal:
 
Sac State, I had a Volvo 144, my pre-Honda, Toyota days and I heard a noise in my engine. It was 105 degrees outside and I was driving on a country road. I pulled over and open the oil fill plug and I saw lots of white foam. I changed from Quaker State to Castrol GTX ever since. That Volvo got in a wreck at 160,000 and I sold my first Honda at 260,000 miles. I still have 2 high mileage cars that see nothing but Castrol GTX.

I noticed some Quaker State ads pushing a better grade of Quaker State for better protection. I wonder if they somehow feel the normal Quaker State is not enough, I know it wasn't for me. Sorry to hear about your Isuzu, live and learn. :(
 
oil change

well, I do my oil change at every 5k miles on all of my cars. It's a good compromise bewteen 3k and 7k. Also, its easy to remember. It's 5,10,15,20 instead of 3,6,9,12,15 ...

nothing technical just easy to remember when the last oil change was done.
 
When I change the oil, or any other maintenance I write it down in a book. Also on my 4Runner I have two trip meters. I use one for gas mileage and the other for oil changes. When I think I am close to a oil change I hit the second trip meter and in a second I know how many miles I have driven on that oil change. :)
 
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I keep a book for each vehicle. I write down all the maintenance that I do such as lube or air and gas filter changes.
 

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