'04 Ltb Brake Pad project question

[jsgreen]

'04 Ltd Brake Pad project question

I need to replace my pads, thought I'd try to DIY.

My question isn't about the steps (search found plenty of guides) - but about what could go wrong?

What are common mistakes and/or unexpected turns for the worst that can come up when replacing pads?

 

[jsgreen]

Anyone have advice on doing the brake pads? I'd like to buy the pads and change them out this weekend.

Thanks in Advance -

 

[Victor]

I am not sure about the area you're in but if the undercarriage is rusty DO NOT, try to remove the 12mm bolt for the brake line. Remove the clip and rotate the caliper in unison with the line so that it doesn't kink or bend.

It's good to have two long screwdriver in order to push the 4 pistons back simultaneously.

Hint: Leave the old pads in and use those as a prying point against the rotor.

When you're all done, turn the key ON and pump the brake pedal a few times till it firms up.

 

[Kmvreter]

Re: '04 Ltd Brake Pad project question

... but about what could go wrong?

... unexpected turns for the worst that can come up when replacing pads?

I ran into the unexpected rusted (frozen) caliper lower piston. You can see uneven pad wear as evidence of this before you even take the brakes apart.
I'm trying to avoid a future reoccurance of this by spreading the pads and reseating the pistons at each tire rotation.

 

[dpross16]

Let me know

Let me know how this works for you. I am wanting to do the same job this weekend but I have to know if there are any circumstances that could cause me to be without a car for the weekend. My wife is going out of town so it is my only chance to do it without being nagged, but I won't have any other transportation.

 

[jsgreen]

Well, I tried to replace my front pads last night, with limited success (no pun intended).

1) Wheels were somewhat frozen to the hubs - took several minutes of pounding on them with a 3lb hammer to break them free (just hitting the rubber).

2) Anti-Rattle-pins came out fairly easily, pads were easy to slide out.

3) Discovered that the inner lower pistons are frozen in the calipers! One side I was able to break the rust with a c-clamp to push the piston back in. The other side, not a chance. Non-frozen pistons are very easy to push in (could do it with the tire iron with almost no effort).

So, now one side has new pads and the other side has the old set. I'll have to take her into the shop and take advantage of the extended warranty I bought to get new calipers, which I hope they replace in pairs.

I'm sure I'll be told to put new rotors on too - might just do that to have everything new.

It is an easy job, by the way. If I hadn't tried to do it myself I wouldn't have learned about how they worked, or had the fun of getting my hands a little dirty - plus now I'm educated about my brakes and will understand more about what the shop guy tells me..

 

[dpross16]

That was easy... kinda.

I just got done replacing rear pads and front pads and rotors. The job is as easy as everyone makes it sound, when you have the correct tools. I had to get a torque wrench to get the bolts off the calipers but once that is done the pads slide right out and back in. With a little wiggling. It took me about 2 hours to do the whole job and that was one wheel at a time with an old fashion jack and lug wrench that came with the truck. I would say the most difficult part was putting the front calipers back on. It was hard the line the holes up to get the bolts back on. I just slid a screwdriver through the holes to get it to fit right. YAY, I just saved $600. I think I'll buy myself a beer or 12.

 

[jsgreen]

I hope you used jack stands - never rely on any floor jack by itself if you can avoid it.

Another safety trick I've read about (maybe on this forum?) is to put the dis-mounted tire under the car in case the jack/jack stands fail - the extra 10" or so could save your life if you are under the car.

Did you need to bleed the brake lines after you put the calipers on?

 

[dpross16]

Working great.

I did use jack stands on the rear, but the ones that I had would not fit under the front end anywhere, too big. So, I did have to do the front while on the jack, I didn't feel too safe, and I did put the tire under the truck, just in case. I did not have to bleed the brakes. I just took the lid off the brake fluid reservoir and used a clamp to compress the caliper and it pushed the fluid back into the reservoir. i did have to remove some fluid when I was done. No mess whatsoever. I read a post on that process before and it worked. After I did each wheel, I pressed the brake pedal up and down about 10 times before it tightened up. My left front rotor was the most difficult to get off, but after a little persistence with the tire iron and screwdriver, it gave up. The front brake pads were gone and the rotors were nasty. They work awesome now. My quote from the local "cheap" repair shop was $768, I spent right around $160 total. The $5 mesh and rubber gloves I got from Wal-Mart were probably the best investment of the whole thing. I think they saved about 5 layers of skin. Let me know if you have any other questions, I think I did it again in my sleep last night.

 

[jsgreen]

What's the "mesh" for? What rotors did you buy? When I get the new calipers, I will probably replace the rotors too.

 

[dpross16]

Maybe they weren't mesh...

I don't know what they are, but they worked really well. I got my rotors at Advance Auto, I think they are Everwear? I don't know, my initial mindset was, go as cheap as possible in case I screw something up, so that is what I did. Nothing got screwed up, so next time, maybe 30,000 miles or so, I may upgrade. My truck has 110,000 miles on it, I was just happy to get it all apart and back together. Definitely, if you are taking the calipers off you should just go ahead and change out the rotors if they need it. Once you get that far, it is pretty easy. As long as the rotors come off.

 

[Mike07SE]

Re: That was easy... kinda.

... I had to get a torque wrench to get the bolts off the calipers but once that is done the pads slide right out and back in...

These are fixed calipers. Shouldn't the pins be able to be removed and the pads pulled out through the top of the caliper without dismounting the caliper? The way I've always seen it done, unless this truck is different (haven't done brakes on it yet).

 

[audiqtr]

Re: That was easy... kinda.

I had to get a torque wrench to get the bolts off the calipers but once that is done the pads slide right out and back in.

Good Job,

But, Why would you need a torque wrench to undo the bolts???

 

[Mike07SE]

Yeah, you should never use a torque wrench to break loose nut/bolts. Always should do that with a breaker bar. Don't have one, you can get 'em cheap at an Autozone or Pep Boys.

 

[dpross16]

correct

I didn't have a breaker bar, and I needed a torque wrench anyway. It worked??? I shouldn't have done it that way, but I did. I never claimed to be perfect.

 

[jsgreen]

brief update - the extended warranty covered replacement of both front calipers - nice to not have to worry about them for awhile.

Unfortunately the rotors I had purchased at Autozone were the wrong size (despite watching over the sales person's shoulder when he searched for my make & model & wheel size) - so I have new calipers, new pads and my old rotors (which actually don't show much wear). Braking feels fine, no vibrations so I think I'm OK as far as the rotors go .