06 Sport Rear Glass Shattered this morning

I bought a used 06 in July. Window shattered on me in August. Called Toyota. Told me that I had to get it replaced by April 2018. Absolute BS. What more can we do about this? I understand that they "gave us an opportunity" to replace the faulty part, but I didn't even have the car then.

It wasn't a Recall.It was a Warranty Enhancement which meant it had to break before they would replace it.
 
When I used to live in Boston I needed a resident parking permit, which was affixed to the inside of the rear window. After I moved out of Boston I attempted to remove the permit and realized that there was no way to get it off without possibly damaging the defrost wires.

Can anyone on here who's had their rear window fail recall if there had ever been any damage to those wires? Exposing or damaging one could possibly lead to a hot spot, which I wouldn't think would matter when the temperature is in the 60s as the OP stated, but if it were down in the single digits then the temperature differential could result in a shattered window.
 
My 06 rear glass blew out on new years eve after running the defroster. My question is since this service bulletin is expired (April 2018) has anyone been successful getting a Toyota dealer to cover this after the expiration date? I live in Maryland BTW.

Side note: It makes no sense to me why Toyota decided to have one expiration date for a car that had a 7 year model run(03-09)...
 
My 06 rear glass blew out on new years eve after running the defroster. My question is since this service bulletin is expired (April 2018) has anyone been successful getting a Toyota dealer to cover this after the expiration date? I live in Maryland BTW.

Side note: It makes no sense to me why Toyota decided to have one expiration date for a car that had a 7 year model run(03-09)...

I talked to Toyota Corporate and they said, Sorry your past the Warranty. I would think if any dealer did cover it that it would be out of their pocket. A few years ago Toyota did fix our 2010 4runner for a leaking rear bearing seal with it 2200 miles past the drive train warranty of 60,000 miles with no charge to us. It still leaked after a few months and then they went back in and changed the seal and bearing too,again at no charge to us. So they were good to us.That would have been very expensive. If anyone did get their back glass replaced free after April 30,2018 most likely it was a very short time after it run out.
 
In case anyone is wondering how to disconnect the rear defrost:

Disconnected mine today, while I fixed the broken reed switch for my remote window down mod. those two connectors seemed to be scorched from the heat.

Dont know if that would/could be part of a failure or a symptom/warning sign, but I'm curious if others saw the same thing
 
I talked to Toyota Corporate and they said, Sorry your past the Warranty. I would think if any dealer did cover it that it would be out of their pocket. A few years ago Toyota did fix our 2010 4runner for a leaking rear bearing seal with it 2200 miles past the drive train warranty of 60,000 miles with no charge to us. It still leaked after a few months and then they went back in and changed the seal and bearing too,again at no charge to us. So they were good to us.That would have been very expensive. If anyone did get their back glass replaced free after April 30,2018 most likely it was a very short time after it run out.

I suspected that would be pretty much the answer anywhere I went at this point in time. I don't have any connections with any of my local dealers because I do all my own work so there's no incentive for any of them to help me out with this expired warranty.

safelite is quoting around $260 installed so aftermarket options are there. I guess I will just call around and see what kind of aftermarket glass is available in my area because the revised OEM one is like $430 online part only. With no details on what changed its hard to tell how improved the OEM replacement one is over the original one that shattered.
 
The actual switch on the dash goes to the Body ecu which controls different things. The Body ecu then activates a relay that goes straight to the battery unfused. After going through the relay the defroster and the heated mirror circuit then split. A 10A fuse feeds both mirrors while a 30A fuse feeds the defroster. So pulling the 30A fuse should leave the mirrors working. I never realized a window defroster would pull enough current to warrant a 30A fuse. I guess that's why they burn up. After cleaning out a ton of glass from the back of the car and another ton from the rear hatch door, I disconnected the heater wires from the piece of connector that was left. It was all black and burnt. I assume that was the cause of it shattering. This defroster was very rarely used too. I would caution anyone about using there's. Hope this helps.

It's very helpful. Thank you.
 
Decided to pull the hatch trim on my ‘07 Sport and have a look at the connectors. This is looking up at the open hatch with the window down a few inches so the bottom of the glass is at the top of the pics.

At first I thought the discoloration on the plugs was heat related but it rubbed off easily so maybe it’s grease or some other protectant that’s brownish or it turned that way over time? If anyone knows or has another take, please speak up.

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Decided to pull the hatch trim on my ‘07 Sport and have a look at the connectors. This is looking up at the open hatch with the window down a few inches so the bottom of the glass is at the top of the pics.

At first I thought the discoloration on the plugs was heat related but it rubbed off easily so maybe it’s grease or some other protectant that’s brownish or it turned that way over time? If anyone knows or has another take, please speak up.

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IMHO that discoloration is definitely from heat, even if it rubs off, when a electrical connection overheats it often smokes and what you're seeing is the residue from that smoke, sorta like how nicotine from smoking cigarettes builds up on windows and fabric in a vehicle.

It also sorta looks like the plastic is deformed/melted a bit from the heat on the connectors in the close up photo.
 
Decided to pull the hatch trim on my ‘07 Sport and have a look at the connectors. This is looking up at the open hatch with the window down a few inches so the bottom of the glass is at the top of the pics.

At first I thought the discoloration on the plugs was heat related but it rubbed off easily so maybe it’s grease or some other protectant that’s brownish or it turned that way over time? If anyone knows or has another take, please speak up.

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Mine looked exactly like this.
I removed the connectors and sprayed battery terminal foam cleaner into them.
After 10 minutes the buildup inside the connector gets dissolved and a quick shot of air gets it real clean inside. Applied dielectric grease and haven’t had any issues since nearly 2 years ago.

A better solution would be to replace the connector completely with something more robust. There’s some used in the hobby industry rated for 50-100A and designed for outdoor use.
 
Unplugged the fuses on both 4Rs this weekend. No glass shattering for me. Some modern conveniences are more trouble than they are worth...
 

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