08 V8 4x4 - El Camaleon Azul

[zidaro]

The gas cap that was on your truck when I bought it was not OEM and it had the same issue. Replaced it with OEM right at 2 years ago. You would think it would last longer than that. :noidea:

Yeah, I knew it was a Toyota cap, thought it was original though based on how firm the seal was. 2 years is a bit short on lifespan.
I put a thin coat of Silglyde on the new caps gasket to try to keep it pliable, would think gas is gonna take it right off though.

 

[zidaro]

Uhhhh, these aren't gonna fit?
Seem to b ok going straight on flat ground.

Need to make some room!

 

[zidaro]

Getting a lil hand! Accessing parts is sometimes best left in the hands of the pros in the know. Or who they know

 

[zidaro]

Glassworks Unlimited
Best product, hard service. If you want a set and don't want to ride on a washing machine for months, find a shop that has an amazing relationship with them
DMZ fabrication, Jeff, is one of those places. DMZ got it done and quick. http://dmzfab.com
Had Jeff instal them as well, for that perfect fit
Now I just need a bumper and some paint to get a more useable space that looks and works amazing.
Baby steps it seems

 

[zidaro]

been busy stripping down and prepping!

nasty Missouri salty roads have gotten in. So the cleanup, which i will add is NO FUN, has begun to cleanup the frame
step 1- expose it
step 2- wire wheel and sanding wheel grind it, remove as much rust as i can manually
step 3- treat the cleaned frame with Duplicolor Rust Convertor coat https://www.jbtoolsales.com/duplicolor-sp229-vht-paint-rust-converter-11-oz/
step 4- quick prime coat
step 5- topcoat in gloss black with POR15 TopCoat and Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black Extreme Chassis Black® High Gloss 14 oz. Aero - Best Chassis Black formulation Available with Eastwood

heres the nasty. my ocd cannot handle this stuff!!

also prepped some for the suspension. picked up some TC Cam Gussets. One of the oem gussets is already blown out and needs to be replaced, might as well beef it up

tabs tacked on the backside

and fully burned in. PS- I'm no pro welder, but nothing has ever fallen apart! YET

now, LCA's come off, then i gotta knock off the old ones and burn these on. All in good time.


Upgrading the brakes at the same time. Fronts were already upgraded to 5th gen calipers when i got the runner, but no treatment was applied so they are covered in surface rust.
Heres the rear 5th gen calipers. Picked up a set of loaded calipers from Centric.
Now ill remove the rust from the fronts and paint all 4 all purdy.

anyone looking to pull some rust. THIS stuff is amazing. Evaporust!!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M0TLQ6..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=W67973X1RRACGFYESN2S

been using it for a couple years, it WORKS. soak your part for a day, wash it off with water, done. Paint. You even can reuse the stuff forever, just pour it back into the bottle till you need it again.



after shots coming

 

[zidaro]

The goodies Ive been using to cleanup/treat the rust

Here's what's going in my calipers. Akebono pads, after plenty of research I think these are best for a multi use runner

ss

 

[zidaro]

Pics of the frame after wire wheeling and flap disking the hell outta it using an angle grinder, wipe down with etoh, and a couple coats of the vht rust inhibitor

Came out very clean so far

 

[grave]

Great thread with lots of good info! Can't wait to watch the build progress.

 

[zidaro]

Great thread with lots of good info! Can't wait to watch the build progress.

Thanks, thats the whole idea as far as I'm concerned! Share the experience and pass on info on what we find, and how things work.
Hopefully it is entertaining and provides some info that will save time and $$ when its your turn.

Always cool when there is some participation too- feedback, advice, or some good ole fashion jousting :frisky: Cant take this stuff too seriously

 

[zidaro]

Been getting pissed at the rear hatch not lifting all the way, sat about 6" low and was bumping my head on it or having to lift it by hand! Ugh!! Even annoying when its sitting in my driveway on jack stands.
Saw the solution on another build here, thanks [MENTION=58450]tmcintosh3[/MENTION]

Armstrong hatch lift struts #6107 bought em off Amazon. Perfect fit, simple install. I thought i was going to have to play with the little ball/clip joint, but these even came with brackets for both ends. SIMPLE does not get any simpler.
Lifts quicker and to the top, time will tell if it stands the test

reused the gasket on the doorframe

STOKED!

 

[zidaro]

Cleaned up the frame rust and got a good coat of primer and top coat paint on the frame and rear axle.
In the process of reassembly. Taking it slow and cleaning it up as i go.
Rear is first.
Heres the cleanup:

slipped a set of daystar bumps i had laying around, much better shape than the clapped out OEMS that were on it. These were made for the 1st ten runners running leafs, but fit perfect.

one particular nasty rusted out area, cleaned it up best i could, but still was covered. Rust Converter did its job

clean n free of da nasty

welded in a set of TrailWorxFab HD Upper rear control arm brackets, made for the FJ but fit just fine. i trimmed them up a bit since I'm welding them in.
Bomber, should hold up to some abuse.

Diff. breather raised up out of harms way, mostly
Crown Performance brakelines all around. SS and extended where needed

Diagrams of brake line routing and Parking brake assembly, if needed for reference

should have the rear back together tomorrow, if kids, puppies, or other responsibilities don't get in the way!!

 

[zidaro]

Picked up a set of replacement Prothane rear swaybar bushings.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00387ZSXG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Found them posted in another thread where it was believed to be a direct swap using the stock brackets and these bushings, 21mm hole.
They are not. ;(
different width and diameter. Hole matches, but thats it. They do sell a kit with a new bracket too, not sure if that fits or not, next time.

was able to mash them in there anyway. Figure for the $12 i paid, i could mash them in, see if they work. Likely they will tear themselves up and get spit out. Whatever. Can always slip the old rubber POS back in.

Installed the rear ATL rotors, 4th gen.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VGUYR4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
5th gen Centric Calipers from Rockauto, coated with the Duplicator caliper paint.
Akebono ceramic pads
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EQ0O7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Applied mandatory copper anti-seize to the hub to prevent a rotor frozen on later. Adjusted the parking brakes back to function, and hooked up the brakelines.
still need to get the front done before i can bleed the lines.
Looks nice, hope it stops

 

[Texas866801]

This entire thread is full of win. Nice work Z... seriouly nice work. This build is slowing killing my wallet.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

[zidaro]

with the brakes reassembled, i spent the rest of the day attaching control arms and slipping in the springs.
ICON LCAs, Front Range Off Road UCAs and PanHard, Toytec RCC2.0HD springs, ICON 2.5 RR shocks.

Hacked off the resonator for a side exit exhaust. May slip a tip on later depending.
The exhaust will need some type of bracing near the end as well, don't let anyone tell you otherwise. As it sits it has quite a bit of bounce to it and will strike the frame with any serious fun going on.

Adjustable swaybar links by [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] on T4R- sharp!

still need to bleed the brakes and solidly mount the shock reservoirs

Also picked up an RCI steel gas tank skid on a group buy deal. Nice big beefy plate of steel, install went very smooth as a one man job.

Slipped on the rear tires one dropped her on the ground so i feel like its getting closer to driving again
Need some rear mudflap mod ideas!

now to dig into that front!!

 

[Cisco Kid]

Looking good Aaron! Can't wait to see the final result.

 

[zidaro]

Frozen/rust bonded LCA cam bolts!

One so frozen the LCA bushing barely even flexed. Had to cut the bolts to pull the arm
Anyone have opinions on aftermarket vs OEM Toy replacements? Im leaning OEM

 

[sr3tlaw]

Frozen/rust bonded LCA cam bolts!

One so frozen the LCA bushing barely even flexed. Had to cut the bolts to pull the arm
Anyone have opinions on aftermarket vs OEM Toy replacements? Im leaning OEM

OEM, or shell out the money for the Total Chaos. Be sure to grease the cam bolts on the new one to prevent from happening again.

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[zidaro]

OEM, or shell out the money for the Total Chaos. Be sure to grease the cam bolts on the new one to prevent from happening again.

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just to be clear, I'm not replacing the LCA- YET! this is just the cam bolts in need.

and thanks for the lube suggestions. Im a huge fan of Copper Antiseize on all bolts and bushings, then in wet enviro or low/exposed parts adding marine RedLine bearing grease

 

[sr3tlaw]

just to be clear, I'm not replacing the LCA- YET! this is just the cam bolts in need.

and thanks for the lube suggestions. Im a huge fan of Copper Antiseize on all bolts and bushings, then in wet enviro or low/exposed parts adding marine RedLine bearing grease

Do you have a link to either? Would love to try it out

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

 

[zidaro]

Do you have a link to either? Would love to try it out

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Permatex copper anit-sieze. super badass for anything you don't want to stick together after assembly

https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-0...=1470685957&sr=1-3&keywords=copper+anti+seize

Redline CV-2 synthetic bearing grease. waterproof and high temp. as good as it gets

https://smile.amazon.com/Red-Line-8...86006&sr=1-2&keywords=red+line+bearing+grease