08 V8 4x4 - El Camaleon Azul

[zidaro]

got a little frame prep done for the front. couple of the alignment tabs were pretty beat up, almost like the arm was in a front end accident and they were torn. Driver side was only issue. But not an issue anymore.

ran into some issues with the psgr. side front control arm. cam bolts seized, had to cut the bolt sleeve off the front bushing to remove the arm. sleeve is bonded in the bushing.
PN# 48409-60020
might have to replace the bushing too, at $60, if i can't get the sleeve to pop out.

 

[sr3tlaw]

Permatex copper anit-sieze. super badass for anything you don't want to stick together after assembly

https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-0...=1470685957&sr=1-3&keywords=copper+anti+seize

Redline CV-2 synthetic bearing grease. waterproof and high temp. as good as it gets

https://smile.amazon.com/Red-Line-8...86006&sr=1-2&keywords=red+line+bearing+grease

Thank-you! Going to order and check out. What besides the cam bolts have you used this on??

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[zidaro]

What besides the cam bolts have you used this on??

Use the anti seize on just about every bolt i pull. Just keeps the surfaces from rust freezing. unless i am using locktite- which seals the surfaces too.

 

[zidaro]

Couple reference pics for front end orientation. I always seem to have a hard time finding pics of how things are oriented in assembly. And i forget how i took them apart
Whether anyone else follows this super awesome thread or not, atleast I DO!!

oring seal at rear of bearing/hub assembly mating to spindle

Axle seals (at the diff)
Toyota pn
90311-47013 for the PASSENGER side
90311-47012 for the DRIVER side(smaller dia.)
flat side of seal to inside. dat tap it in completely, esp. on psgr. side, only to outside seating lip of housing.

cv install- c-clip opening facing up


brake bleeding:

1- with the ignition off, pump the brake pedal more than 40 times.
2- Turn the ignition on, wait for the electronic pump to turn off (30 to 40sec)
3- With the ignition still on, pump the brakes more than 20 times.
4- Connect tubing to bleed valve
5- With ignition on, pump the brake several times, with the pedal down, loosen the bleed until the fluid starts to slow down. Tighten bleed screw and release brake pedal. Repeat as needed. Constantly check fluid level in master cyl reservoir.
-- bleed your brakes starting with the closest to the master cylinder, and working your way to the farthest. The order to bleed the brakes is driver's side front, passenger side front, driver's side rear, passenger side rear.

 

[zidaro]

Trimmed the front body mounts back to give tires as much clearance as possible.
Just need to fill the hole with a plate now. Todays Project

 

[capri_auto]

sweet rig

 

[zidaro]

Loaded up my front calipers finally

Bought the runner with these already installed in the front, 5th gen calipers.
but they had not been treated with anything, so had a nice coat of surface rust. wire wheeled them, then dipped them in Evaporust rust remover to seal the deal.
coated them with the Duplicolor Caliper Ceramic Kit https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-BCP400-Red-Brake-Caliper/dp/B000B6AF80
So purdy!
New Akebono Ceramic pads and plenty of disc brake grease to stop the seizing!

Wanted to show pics of the spring clip and wear tab orientation. Wear indicator placement is at outside and bottom of caliper (bottom being when installed, bleeder up).

can just barely see the Indicator Tab on upper rt. side of top pad in this pic. If you look at the pads all together, it will be obvious which 2 have the tabs.

 

[zidaro]

fit up the spindles with the Total Chaos braces. Great fit, only required minimal trimming to line up all mounting holes. The sway bar links bolted up with no extra trim required on bracing. Though I'm not running the Sway Bar from here on out.
FYI- if you go this route- the TC Spindle Gusset kit with the sway bar option has a much better bracing, ie. much stronger, than the kit without SB option.

 

[zidaro]

cut plates and welded them in today for the front body mount.
Keep a spray bottle of h2o handy should yo go this close to the mounts. Rubber likes to flame up.
should give plenty of clearance. Used 3/16" so should take some punishment too, if i ever got way too deep

 

[zidaro]

got the rear ICON reservoirs mounted securely as well.

Using the 2.5" generic reservoir mounts from http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/ . cheap and easy tabs and brackets galore.

secure and way back outta the way

 

[zidaro]

So, rears all buttoned up aside from bleeding the brakes

Front in progress!!

Cleaned up the spindles and painted them in my favorite, Rustoleum HammerFinish. I find its very durable.
Tapped in the rear spindle seal for the CV. Found a small section of trex decking worked great. I tried using the front hub cap to tap it in as suggested on another forum- that proved unfun.

Heres the new OEM seal # for the Driverside axle housing at the CV. Put one of these in too, obviously

To solve my frozen LCA cam bolt situation, which required me to cut thru the cam bolt sleeve on one side to remove the arm, i got the wild idea to replace both front LCA's with OEM 5th gen. arms.
4th gens and 5th gens run the same basic suspension, along with the FJC!!
The 5th gens were upgraded with larger ball joints, improved gusseting on the arm, and- to my unknowing surprise- larger cam bolts. I suppose this last item is a good one, but it did require some quick thinking and a mild game change to adjust for the larger bolts. If you recall- cuz i now you've memorized my full thread- i purchased the Total Chaos Cam Tab Gusset Kit prior. It was for the 03-09 LCA cam bolts. No fit no mas!! Luckily i didn't weld them on yet, Whew.
Bought the new TC Gusset Kit for the 10+ FJ/T4Rs (cuz they are the same) and prepped them up, welded them in!

5th gen arms (these are actually off a newer FJC that was laid on its lid then parted out!!
I bought them with all the hardware (bolts) complete.

all cleaned up

Heres those old cam tabs that were blown out. Surprising it could get an alignment that had good #s.

Cam bolt kit for the 5th gens (notice the different PN.

This did require me to grind out each bolt hole on the frame after aligning and tacking in the cam gussets so that the larger cam bolts will slip thru the frameholes. A pain, but no biggie.

And remember------

 

[zidaro]

In my quest to obtain parts for cheap :hunter: (sorta), i pirated my wifes UCA's off her '10runner imp: Don't fret, her ride is still looking good! We've just decided this will be our thrasher and hers does not need the wild goodies to wheel hard, just enough to keep it looking good and able to romp thru the Winters up here.

Nice ICON's!!

Stripped them down, cleaned them up, and swapped in some new Uniballs cuz the originals were getting slightly loose.

All cleaned, tight, and lubed- ready to party!! Who doesn't love THAT!!!!

 

[zidaro]

Todays wrap-up!
Finally with everything clean, prepped, welded, and painted. Put it together! Was only able to get the driverside finished today

LCA bolted up, CV beat in, spindle on at the LCA, UCA attached at the frameside. Then the coilover gets installed.

Once the coils in, attach the steering joint, the upper spindle taper, the rotor and caliper, torque the hub bolt and all others, finish it off with the uniball cover on the UCA!

gotta wrap up the passenger side, weld on the frame side brake line tabs, bleed the brakes, add some gear oil and go break in the pads!! Finish it off with an alignment.
At work for a couple days then back at it, hope to have it on the road again by next weekend.

 

[MrEvan94]

Dude this shit is straight inspiration. I just got an 08 ltd v8 with only 66k and bone stock. I've been reading builds all day trying to get ideas and yours seems to be the only right way to go (fixing things that matter, like rust). I can already tell this thing is going to be sex! Don't stop updating!


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[zidaro]

Dude this shit is straight inspiration. I just got an 08 ltd v8 with only 66k and bone stock. I've been reading builds all day trying to get ideas and yours seems to be the only right way to go (fixing things that matter, like rust). I can already tell this thing is going to be sex! Don't stop updating!


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thanks for the huge compliment bud!
Hope it inspires, motivates, and helps others dig their rigs and get out and play- in the garage and the dirt.

 

[zidaro]

a couple brake bleed procedures to follow.
Ive used the on my 10 Tundra successfully, but always have to hunt them down


Here's the toyota procedure out of the 07' FJC repair manual.
This is just for the front and rear lines. It's a good idea to put the top on the master to prevent splashing. Do not let the master get low. Always tighten the bleeder before letting the pedal up. If you let the pedal up air will be sucked into the system. I would buy 2 quarts of fluid. You can probably take the second quart back but it's best to have more than enough on hand just in case. OK here's the Toyota process:

BLEED BRAKE LINE
(a) Turn the ignition switch to ON, and wait until the
pump motor has stopped.
HINT:
Pump operating sound can be heard.
(b) Front brake line.
(1) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
(2) Depress the brake pedal several times, then
loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held
down (step D).
(3) At the point when the fluid stops coming out,
tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake
pedal (step E).
(4) Repeat steps D and E until all the air in the fluid
has been bled out.
Torque: 11 N*m (110 kgf*cm, 8 ft.*lbf)
(5) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the
other brake line.
(c) Rear brake line.
(1) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
(2) Depress the brake pedal, hold it, and then
loosen the bleeder plug.
HINT:
Brake fluid is pumped out automatically.
(3) Loosen the bleeder plug and release the air.
NOTICE:
Keep the brake fluid in the reservoir tank
above the MIN line during the above
procedures.
(4) When the air is completely bled out of the brake
fluid through the bleeder plug, tighten the
bleeder plug.
Torque: 11 N*m (110 kgf*cm, 8 ft.*lbf)
(5) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the
other brake line.




This is for a 2011. Should be the same.......

BLEED BRAKE LINE

(a) Turn the ignition switch on (IG).
(b) Remove the brake master cylinder reservoir filler cap assembly.
(c) Add brake fluid until the fluid level is between the MIN and MAX lines of the reservoir.
(d) Repeatedly depress the brake pedal and bleed air from the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder RH.
(e) Repeat the step above until the air is completely bled, and then tighten the bleeder plug while depressing the brake pedal.

Torque : 11 Nm (110 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)

(f) Bleed the air from the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.
(g) With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder RH, continue to hold the brake pedal and allow brake fluid to be drained from the bleeder plug while the pump motor operates.

HINT
* Air is bled as the pump motor operates while the brake pedal is being depressed.
* Be sure to release the brake pedal to stop the motor after approximately 100 seconds of continuous operation.
* As brake fluid is continuously drained while the pump operates, it is not necessary to repeatedly depress the brake pedal.
(h) When there is no more air in the brake fluid, tighten the bleeder plug, and then release the brake pedal.

Torque : 11 Nm (110 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)

(i) Bleed the air from the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.
(j) Turn the ignition switch off (IG).
(k) Inspect for brake fluid leaks.
(l) Check and adjust the brake fluid level



******NEVER let the Master cyl. fluid level get low************

 

[zidaro]

Busted out the passenger side front suspension on Monday. All went smooth.
heres the important torque specs for the front.

Tuesday got a Brake Bleed with zero issues. Except my wife not being stoked pumping the pedal for ever.
After that i went ahead and changed out the front and rear diff fluid, transfer case fluid.

Driveway alignment turned out ok, got me to the shop for a real straighten out.
strap a straight bar to each front wheel at center, level it. then measure across the rear of each wheel and across the front of each. Looking for 1/4" toe in- the front should be 1/4" less than the rear.

Took her for a sunset spin to break in the rotors/pads. All went well.

Front Glass

Got on the road this am to get the alignment done. Only shop worth a damn around my area is in Bishop. Sterling works at Bishop Automotive (Chevron at N. end of town) and he knows his shit, old school, and does one heck of a stand up alignment. So- 50 miles of wandering down the highway later, all aligned. He even adjusted the rear links, aligning all 4 wheels. DIALED!! No more wandering.

Heres the Passengerside front in all its current glory.

 

[zidaro]

This, of course, lead me to the GOODS!!!
Im finally back on the road with this thing. Never done, naturally, but i can wheel again :wings:

Spun off the highway on the way home from the alignment to get the rubber dirty and scrape around on some rocks. Nothing wild! No big flexing or articulation, no air. Just putted around.
I did happen to blast some fire road washboard- she ate it up very smoothly. I did happen to cross drive some large rutted 2track and she ate that up too! I think things are looking good for this stage in the build. It handles fairly good at decent speeds. Naturally it will not be eating whoops for dinner anytime- soon

Heres this eves test run crawl-around. Eye candy for ME!!

You like my sweet ass custom bumper?? Obviously i have some work to finish up unk03:

these are the 2track ruts i was talking about. i hit them diagonally at about 40mph and it was a very smooth controlled jostle, no harsh hit or deflection.

front does not tuck to deep. but PS was only a foot and half lower.

rear pulls into the fender nicely on articulation. I don't think that will be the case on full compression.

FUN to be had!!

 

[dkyleb]

Oooooh yis. I really like this build. You are doing some real quality work here, very nice! Looking forwad to seeing you jump the damn thing though! Haha.

So, just wondering... How did you find out this information about the updated LCAs? I plan on replacing mine in the near future, and would like to do at least a little bit of an upgrade. Bigger bolts and some extra gusseting would be great! A really good find, good job!

 

[MrEvan94]

Hell yeah man! I have a couple of questions. How do you find all of these parts? I'm constantly looking on this forum and one other forum but can never find anything worth anything. Also, those fenders. What's the mm of the flare?


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