Thanks bud. heres the info. guess i never once said anything about my wheel/tire setup
Love your wheel/tire fitment. What are the specs on the wheels? Are you running those spidertrax wheel spacers as well?
Also might have missed it, where did you get the extended rear sway bar end links?
Mike builds and sells them here on the board. Bomber hardware, simple install. I could have put it all together myself, but...... :rockon: Mikes got it done, install, forget. thanks [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION]
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-suspension-wheels-tires/160563-sway-bar-links-saint-louis-mo.html
No spacers. I have a set, need some?
Specs on the wheels/tire combo I'm currently running.
Guess i forgot to add this anywhere
Wheels - spec. off Racelines site.
RT233 AL Monster Cast Beadlocks
RT233-79560-32-AL
Weight:44.00
17x9.5 / 6x5.5 / -32 / 4.00 / 4.250
cast isn't my first choice in alum. wheels, but i could not $$ front for the forged this time.
2800#rating
i weighed them on my scale with the alum. ring and all hardware, came out to 37.9# every time.
and the Cooper Discoverer ATP in 295/70R17
great traction in the ice/snow so far.
I did slash a sidewall nicely in Death Valley riverbed. But i was rallying a bit fast.
olice:
Beadlock install- my thoughts.
I always pound a grove/notch in the inner bead retention hump to give the tire bead something extra to grab onto before it slips over the hump. Makes a big difference keeping the inner bead from popping when your aired down. ~1.5" apart all the way around. Learned it from a baja legend.
spit on your inner tire bead little, and push the front of the rim thru the inside wall.
now set it on a 5gal. bucket face up.
Carefully line up your tire bead centered on the bead ring of the wheel.
Lay the lock ring over the tire, again centering it on the wheel and bolt holes visually.
I mark with nail polish the ring and wheel at 15* increments using 2 colors so i can remember my bolt tightening sequences.
i use copper anti-seize on all bolts.
insert 4 bolts at 15* each and finger tighten on opposites. insert 8 more between those bolts and finger tighten
Now, criss-crossing back and forth and at 30min. on your clock of bolts, start tightening to 5#, then 10# all bolts. Once your hand tight- Use a torque wrench!!!!
Like the proper lug nut sequence, only WAY more bolts. Idea is to never over tighten one section and cause the lock ring to start slipping to one side. this will cause wheel imbalance.
once at 10#, i thread rest of bolts in and tighten same way.
Final sequence torque to 15#.
recheck your torques on every bolt till they are all at 15-17'#
Takes forever. but its done correctly and may even balance well if you did it right.
How i balanced my wheels.
The ceramic beads seem to do a great job. Not always perfect balance but usually pretty good and the best part is it self corrects with tire plugs, chunking, ice/dirt in your wheels, tire rotation when aired down(this one shouldn't happen if your deadlocks are working), standard tire wear. No rebalance needed.
Ive never tried them, till now, on a more street driven rig. They work amazing on my 37" Pitbulls/beadlocks that i run on my crawler, but it sees way more dirt and rocks than pavement.
once you pour in the beads, thru the backside of the rim. pull your valve core, wet the rear bead a small bit with slightly soapy water, and fill the tire till the rear bead pops on, pressure down to ~30# immediately.
this
to this
:rockon:
